Hi all, Hoo boy what a surprise! The mast step crushed the deck core on my 30 year-old 22, so I pulled out the hatch and its insert to access the core from just in front of the step. Suffice it to say, my core problems are not isolated to the mast step region. I made a hook out of a long steel rod and and was scooping out gobs of waterlogged mush in all directions as far as my long hook could reach! It looks like I'm going to have to remove the majority of the cabin top to get access to as much of the rotten core as I can. Hopefully I will not turn the boat into a Frankenstein in the process. Does the core extend clear down and include the cabin sides? Anybody else dare to pull the hatch and look at their own issues? My deck was not soft anywhere except under the step; yet the core is long gone! Anybody got any comments about this?
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Entire Cabin Top
I had the same thing going on with my Oday 22 last year. It was rotten and mushy from the hatch all the way back on the starboard side. The core does extend into the sides but I'm sure how far. My cabin top had a few cracks to boot. I ended up cutting off the top layer of glass and removing all the goopy wood. There was no wood left, just mush. Then I glassed a new layer of core in and covered it with a new skin. It was not fun. Remember that your mast step needs to be perfectly level or your mast will not be straight. I kind of forgot about that, and sanding thickened epoxy until it is perfectly level sucks. All in all, you are in for a big job my friend, but its not too bad if you plan it out. Don Casey's book will help. A few tips - drill first to see how wide spread the rot is - but be careful not to drill through the inside liner - Only cut off the skin above rot. Keep the top layer of glass and re- glass when you are done if you can. Mine was cracked and was not reusable. Use west system - and be a clean freak when you mix that stuff - it sticks to everything and it causes a rash after a while. And lastly, the bright side....... Its not really that bad, but it takes a while. And when you are done, you will know how to repair a deck - I figure that someday I'll move up to a bigger boat and you can save a ton of cash on a boat if there are soft spots on the deck and you can repair it yourself. Good luck.
I had the same thing going on with my Oday 22 last year. It was rotten and mushy from the hatch all the way back on the starboard side. The core does extend into the sides but I'm sure how far. My cabin top had a few cracks to boot. I ended up cutting off the top layer of glass and removing all the goopy wood. There was no wood left, just mush. Then I glassed a new layer of core in and covered it with a new skin. It was not fun. Remember that your mast step needs to be perfectly level or your mast will not be straight. I kind of forgot about that, and sanding thickened epoxy until it is perfectly level sucks. All in all, you are in for a big job my friend, but its not too bad if you plan it out. Don Casey's book will help. A few tips - drill first to see how wide spread the rot is - but be careful not to drill through the inside liner - Only cut off the skin above rot. Keep the top layer of glass and re- glass when you are done if you can. Mine was cracked and was not reusable. Use west system - and be a clean freak when you mix that stuff - it sticks to everything and it causes a rash after a while. And lastly, the bright side....... Its not really that bad, but it takes a while. And when you are done, you will know how to repair a deck - I figure that someday I'll move up to a bigger boat and you can save a ton of cash on a boat if there are soft spots on the deck and you can repair it yourself. Good luck.
W
Warrens
Solf Cabin/Deck Repair
My 1972 "22" had similar problems on the deck. You might try the following: Remove as much of the rotten balsa as possable. Do not cut into the cabin top or deck. Buy "non-expanding" insulation foam (aerosol cans). Drill 1/8" holes through the cabin top or deck at the "solf" areas. Spray in the insulation. After it sets up, hopefully the cabin top/deck will be solid again. Make sure the upright support inside the cabin, under the mast step is good and solid. Good Luck!
My 1972 "22" had similar problems on the deck. You might try the following: Remove as much of the rotten balsa as possable. Do not cut into the cabin top or deck. Buy "non-expanding" insulation foam (aerosol cans). Drill 1/8" holes through the cabin top or deck at the "solf" areas. Spray in the insulation. After it sets up, hopefully the cabin top/deck will be solid again. Make sure the upright support inside the cabin, under the mast step is good and solid. Good Luck!
enough support?
Will the foam support the mast step if the core is rotten? The core on mine was gone - nothing left, just mush. It was a miracle that the mast didnt come through the cabin top. I guess it depends on the extent of the damage and how much work he wants to put into it.
Will the foam support the mast step if the core is rotten? The core on mine was gone - nothing left, just mush. It was a miracle that the mast didnt come through the cabin top. I guess it depends on the extent of the damage and how much work he wants to put into it.
C
Clay
I'll put epoxy there
Thanks very much for the input. I think I'll carefully saw along the perimeter of the non-skid to avoid wrecking the gel coat or screwing up the non-skid pattern. Then I'll un-roof the little darlin' and scoop out the mush. I 'll put solid epoxy under the mast step but re-core the whole deck with new plywood. Then I'll re-attach the deck somehow and fill in the saw cuts. Question: how did Oday place plywood core over all those compound curves at the front of the cabin?
Thanks very much for the input. I think I'll carefully saw along the perimeter of the non-skid to avoid wrecking the gel coat or screwing up the non-skid pattern. Then I'll un-roof the little darlin' and scoop out the mush. I 'll put solid epoxy under the mast step but re-core the whole deck with new plywood. Then I'll re-attach the deck somehow and fill in the saw cuts. Question: how did Oday place plywood core over all those compound curves at the front of the cabin?
be careful
Don't cut all the way around the non-skid. You are not going to be able to remove the skin on areas where the core is in good shape. That skin is glassed and is a royal pain to get off the core. It will break and then you have to reglass the top layer. Also, use small squares for the core - or use foam. Otherwise it will not bend. I would first figure out exactly where the core is rotten and mark the area and then decide if are going to cut off the top. Oh and dont forget - MARK WHERE THE MAST STEP WAS -
Don't cut all the way around the non-skid. You are not going to be able to remove the skin on areas where the core is in good shape. That skin is glassed and is a royal pain to get off the core. It will break and then you have to reglass the top layer. Also, use small squares for the core - or use foam. Otherwise it will not bend. I would first figure out exactly where the core is rotten and mark the area and then decide if are going to cut off the top. Oh and dont forget - MARK WHERE THE MAST STEP WAS -
klegacell
Instead of plywood, use Klegacell PVC foam mat, covered with epoxy to harden. I used it to replace the core on the foredeck with excellent results. It is flexible in all directions for those curved surfaces. I understand that Klegacell Corp are out of business but I'm sure that you can pick some surplus up or find an alternative.
Instead of plywood, use Klegacell PVC foam mat, covered with epoxy to harden. I used it to replace the core on the foredeck with excellent results. It is flexible in all directions for those curved surfaces. I understand that Klegacell Corp are out of business but I'm sure that you can pick some surplus up or find an alternative.
T
Tom
common problem
Is this a common problem with this model. If the deck appears firm how do you tell if you may have this problem. And how does the water get in to cause the problem. What to look for?
Is this a common problem with this model. If the deck appears firm how do you tell if you may have this problem. And how does the water get in to cause the problem. What to look for?
R
Rich SantaColoma
target your angst
On our Oyster, the mast was collapsing the deck too. I found the wet balsa core under the mast... some maybe rotten, but at least wet and pulpy. I did assume that much of the core under the deck was comprimised, but decided that since it did not sag when walking on it, that only the area under the mast was super-important. So I dug out the pulp about 4 to 5 inches from the mast base, pulling it out with a hooked coat hanger wire. It was a hot week, so I let it sit about a week until it seemed the area was all "steamed out" and dry. I epoxy/wetted out the surfaces between the decks with a peice of sponge crimped in the end of a wire. Then I filled the space with West epoxy mixed with micro balloons. A mixture just thinner than peanut butter still poured in the existing holes. I was originally worried it would continue seeping past the old wet pulp, but it stopped. I was able to fill it right up to the deck, and a bit above. After hardening, I sanded it all level, and re-drilled the holes. The thing is, I know a "perfect" job would be to replace all soft wood everywhere. But the mast really just needs this area to be firm, and it then transfers the force down to the liner, and then to the compression post. So structurally everything is "as new" now. When we walk on the cabin top, which is rarely anyway, I see no softness. By the way, there was an area of soft floor (sole) in the cabin. Since there was a space between the sole and the hull of only about 3/4", I went in through the settee with canned insulation foam. I shot the foam in this space, and when it hardened, the floor was adequately supported. You would not know it was ever comprimised. So again, we all know what perfect is... but sometimes "less" than perfect is just perfect. Rich.
On our Oyster, the mast was collapsing the deck too. I found the wet balsa core under the mast... some maybe rotten, but at least wet and pulpy. I did assume that much of the core under the deck was comprimised, but decided that since it did not sag when walking on it, that only the area under the mast was super-important. So I dug out the pulp about 4 to 5 inches from the mast base, pulling it out with a hooked coat hanger wire. It was a hot week, so I let it sit about a week until it seemed the area was all "steamed out" and dry. I epoxy/wetted out the surfaces between the decks with a peice of sponge crimped in the end of a wire. Then I filled the space with West epoxy mixed with micro balloons. A mixture just thinner than peanut butter still poured in the existing holes. I was originally worried it would continue seeping past the old wet pulp, but it stopped. I was able to fill it right up to the deck, and a bit above. After hardening, I sanded it all level, and re-drilled the holes. The thing is, I know a "perfect" job would be to replace all soft wood everywhere. But the mast really just needs this area to be firm, and it then transfers the force down to the liner, and then to the compression post. So structurally everything is "as new" now. When we walk on the cabin top, which is rarely anyway, I see no softness. By the way, there was an area of soft floor (sole) in the cabin. Since there was a space between the sole and the hull of only about 3/4", I went in through the settee with canned insulation foam. I shot the foam in this space, and when it hardened, the floor was adequately supported. You would not know it was ever comprimised. So again, we all know what perfect is... but sometimes "less" than perfect is just perfect. Rich.
C
clay
my "core issues"
I appreciate all of your helpful and enjoyable responses regarding my rotting deck core. All of these posts reflect a significant amount of time and consideration on the part of the writers. I'm going to track down some Klegacell, or its equivalent, and go after the deck in the spring. The snow's going to fly any day now! Thanks again for all of your helpful input. Clay
I appreciate all of your helpful and enjoyable responses regarding my rotting deck core. All of these posts reflect a significant amount of time and consideration on the part of the writers. I'm going to track down some Klegacell, or its equivalent, and go after the deck in the spring. The snow's going to fly any day now! Thanks again for all of your helpful input. Clay
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