Companionway Hatch Board Gap Filler

[wonkodsane]

I'm refinishing my companionway hatch boards according to DanM's Cetol Natural/Cetol Gloss method, but I was curious about how to fill the cracks between the planks in each hatch board (not the gaps between the boards themselves.) I have plain jane wood filler, but the stuff that was in there looked to be some type of polyurethane. The gaps are pretty significant (3/32") in a couple of places, so I don't want to just leave it alone.

Options I'd thought of, but wanted advice on:
Mixing wood glue and teak sanding dust and slowly filling it.
Filling with a wood putty almost to the front of the boards, then filling with the above mixture.
Filling with polyurethane.

I'd rather not be able to see light through the cracks.

Any advice?

Thanks!

 

[Ross]

You are supposed to match the edges so that you don't have gaps.. It isn't difficult. Just plane off the high spots until they fit .

 

[Hermit Scott]

I'm refinishing my companionway hatch boards according to DanM's Cetol Natural/Cetol Gloss method, but I was curious about how to fill the cracks between the planks in each hatch board (not the gaps between the boards themselves.) I have plain jane wood filler, but the stuff that was in there looked to be some type of polyurethane. The gaps are pretty significant (3/32") in a couple of places, so I don't want to just leave it alone.

Options I'd thought of, but wanted advice on:
Mixing wood glue and teak sanding dust and slowly filling it.
Filling with a wood putty almost to the front of the boards, then filling with the above mixture.
Filling with polyurethane.

I'd rather not be able to see light through the cracks.

Any advice?

Thanks!

Do you happen to have a pic of what you are describing?

 

[RAD]

Sounds like you have openings between the boards when they were put togther....in other words to get a wide board you splice two boards together

 

[justsomeguy]

How about epoxy? When working with mesquite, I'll use a colored epoxy to fill the defects. Tape the crevice on the backside, and pour in your teak-colored epoxy. A slight overfill can be planed/scraped down and sanded.

 

[Steve Dion]

If you take the boards apart they can be trued up with a plane. Then the best way to put them back together is with dowels or biscuts and waterproof glue.

It they are in such bad shape as you have described, maybe they really need to be replaced.

 

[wonkodsane]

Ross, I know about the gaps between the boards needing to match up. What I was asking for was a solution or recommendation for filling the cracks between the planks that make up the boards. I am refurbing 21-year-old, uncared-for teak, not making new, or I'd make them perfect.

Are you suggesting disassembling the hatch boards to clean those edges? It would involve: a) digging out the stainless steel brads that hold the outside (vertical) teak planks to the inside (horizontal) planks (or otherwise separating them) b) sanding to line them up c) reassembling and tacking with new brads d) sanding the ends of the vertical pieces to match the missing teak from the horizontal pieces e)finding 1/2 to 1 inch of teak to replace what's missing after I'm done.

Scott, here's a picture after sanding, first with 80 to get the major nastiness off and then with 120, tomorrow I will use the 220 to prep for the cetol.:

Justsomeguy, where would you source the colored epoxy?

Steve, for replacement, it's a money/time issue. I have time, but not much money. Repair, well, if I can find a good enough filler, I'll go easy versus hard. (-:

Thanks all for your responses!

 

[woodster]

Ross, I know about the gaps between the boards needing to match up. What I was asking for was a solution or recommendation for filling the cracks between the planks that make up the boards. I am refurbing 21-year-old, uncared-for teak, not making new, or I'd make them perfect.

Are you suggesting disassembling the hatch boards to clean those edges? It would involve: a) digging out the stainless steel brads that hold the outside (vertical) teak planks to the inside (horizontal) planks (or otherwise separating them) b) sanding to line them up c) reassembling and tacking with new brads d) sanding the ends of the vertical pieces to match the missing teak from the horizontal pieces e)finding 1/2 to 1 inch of teak to replace what's missing after I'm done.

Scott, here's a picture after sanding, first with 80 to get the major nastiness off and then with 120, tomorrow I will use the 220 to prep for the cetol.:

Justsomeguy, where would you source the colored epoxy?

Steve, for replacement, it's a money/time issue. I have time, but not much money. Repair, well, if I can find a good enough filler, I'll go easy versus hard. (-:

Thanks all for your responses!

just a thought here ...are you able to put them in 2 bar clams and close the gap mechanically...try a test clapming and see.... make sure you use a strip of wood on the clamp surfaces so as not to mar the original wood...if you can do this ...then put gorillia glue in the cracks and clamp it shut and let it setup for 24 hrs...moisten the glue joint with H2O and then put the glue in the crack and let er dry ........the glue sands real easy and will stain easy as well....

regards

woody

 

[justsomeguy]

Justsomeguy, where would you source the colored epoxy?

A good woodworkers supply, such as Woodcraft.com , or along those lines.

 

[wonkodsane]

woodster, it would probably work, but I don't want to try to make that wood do something it hasn't for over 20 years. The cracked polyurethane I pulled out of those gaps was almost as wide as the gaps themselves.

 

[Ross]

I am getting the impression that the gaps you are talking about are checking cracks caused by the wood shrinking. The best cure is to saw the length of the crack, true up the edges and then glue them back together. You shouldn't have to force the joint closed.

 

[woodster]

I am getting the impression that the gaps you are talking about are checking cracks caused by the wood shrinking. The best cure is to saw the length of the crack, true up the edges and then glue them back together. You shouldn't have to force the joint closed.

i wouldnt normally recomend that process but after seeing the pics and how they were put together i felt it was the lesser of two evils.....he could just fill them with foama wood filler and sand them smooth but that would to prominate ......

regards

woody

 

[RAD]

After looking at the pictures and seeing the side rails.... taking the boards apart would be difficult, another thought might be brown Boat Life caulking cause that stuff sands easy and sticks like heck

 

[Hermit Scott]

I used the method Ross recommended and took everything apart and redid the joints where the old glue failed.
I would also consider routing a slot all the way across (even across the vertical edge pieces) and inlaying the same type wood or possibly a lighter wood, like ash. You could make the lighter pieces flush or have them stick out a little with a round over all along them.

 

[Ross]

Looking at the pictures I still say that puting them on a table saw is the way to to the job. You won't lose more than an eighth inch per panel and and you will take out the spring.

 

[kendall]

Best method would be to knock them down and reassemble after planing the matching edges.

Otherwise take a router and guide it along the cracks to whatever depth you're willing to work with. Then square the ends of the channel with a chisel and inset a strip of matching wood to seal the gap. and flush then finish

strips can match or contrast as desired for the visuals you want.

Edit: If they were mine, I wouldn't want to rip them down on a saw and re-glue as I think you would loose the considerable strength the side rails give.

 

[Mormandeus]

If you want it fast and inexpensive but still look desent, try mixing your sawdust with West system and make a filler. I've done it -sands well - if you are going to stain the boards after make sure you stain the filler to match

Bon chance

 

[wonkodsane]

I went justsomeguy's route and filled the gaps with DAP Plastic Wood (Honey Oak) color wood filler. I had finished my 220 grit sanding and put it into the cracks, let it dry, sanded it down and cleaned it.

Then I put the first coat cetol natural on it and holy crap it looks good. The honey oak color is clearly different, but not distractingly so, and I am very happy with it. We'll see how it looks next season and if it bugs me, I'll route out 1/4-1/2" an inch of material and then glue in a teak strip in its place.

Thanks all for your help and suggestions.

Once all the cetol's on and I take it out to the boat, I'll get you a picture so you can compare and contrast it with the strips of teak around the companionway.

 

[Hermit Scott]

I'm glad you are happy with it. It may weather well and give you years of 'forgetting it is there' pleasure. Take some pics for us, let us see your work.

 

[justsomeguy]

Best method would be to knock them down and reassemble after planing the matching edges.

Otherwise take a router and guide it along the cracks to whatever depth you're willing to work with. Then square the ends of the channel with a chisel and inset a strip of matching wood to seal the gap. and flush then finish

strips can match or contrast as desired for the visuals you want.

Edit: If they were mine, I wouldn't want to rip them down on a saw and re-glue as I think you would loose the considerable strength the side rails give.

In woodworking parlance, those side rails are called "breadboard" ends. They're used to help keep the field boards from cupping. In proper woodworking practice, they're not glued completely along the end grain of the field boards, but just at a couple spots along the field board. They'll use a tongue and groove, a sliding dovetail or similar joint to allow the field to expand and contract with the seasonal changes in moisture levels.