I would like to build companionway doors for my brothers Catalina 30. I have a basic knowledge and skill level in cabinetry. I am however, not knowledgeable in teak and weather exposure. My questions are: 1). How tight/loose should the insert board fit into the grooves in the stiles and rails? and 2). Does the insert board have to be caulked and what type of caulking should I use? Thanks Bob V.
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I would like to build companionway doors for my brothers Catalina 30. I have a basic knowledge and skill level in cabinetry. I am however, not knowledgeable in teak and weather exposure. My questions are: 1). How tight/loose should the insert board fit into the grooves in the stiles and rails? and 2). Does the insert board have to be caulked and what type of caulking should I use? Thanks Bob V.
Think about Seaboard!
Bob: Think about making them from Seaboard (UV protected poly board). They will not shrink or swell and will not need maintenance.
Bob: Think about making them from Seaboard (UV protected poly board). They will not shrink or swell and will not need maintenance.
Think about Seaboard!
Bob: Think about making them from Seaboard (UV protected poly board). They will not shrink or swell and will not need maintenance.
Bob: Think about making them from Seaboard (UV protected poly board). They will not shrink or swell and will not need maintenance.
You might also consider…
…as you said, companionway doors, instead of slats. If the boat isn’t going to be routinely hammered by foul weather, the doors are a much more convenient entry. Take a look around, online and walking the dock. Also, when I built the doors for my boat, I put them on with “removable” hinges. Just pull a spring loaded pin, and the door comes completely off.
…as you said, companionway doors, instead of slats. If the boat isn’t going to be routinely hammered by foul weather, the doors are a much more convenient entry. Take a look around, online and walking the dock. Also, when I built the doors for my boat, I put them on with “removable” hinges. Just pull a spring loaded pin, and the door comes completely off.
You might also consider…
…as you said, companionway doors, instead of slats. If the boat isn’t going to be routinely hammered by foul weather, the doors are a much more convenient entry. Take a look around, online and walking the dock. Also, when I built the doors for my boat, I put them on with “removable” hinges. Just pull a spring loaded pin, and the door comes completely off.
…as you said, companionway doors, instead of slats. If the boat isn’t going to be routinely hammered by foul weather, the doors are a much more convenient entry. Take a look around, online and walking the dock. Also, when I built the doors for my boat, I put them on with “removable” hinges. Just pull a spring loaded pin, and the door comes completely off.
If you're making simple drop boards....
...you don't need to worry about wood expansion along the length of the board. Wood only expands and contracts appreciably across the grain. Therefore, the boards can be a reasonable fit side to side. On the edges, be sure to bevel the boards to insure that water does not enter the cabin by draining downhill through the joints. In other words, make sure that you bevel the edges of the boards down towards the cockpit, taking into account the slope of the companionway. Think roofing shingles.
...you don't need to worry about wood expansion along the length of the board. Wood only expands and contracts appreciably across the grain. Therefore, the boards can be a reasonable fit side to side. On the edges, be sure to bevel the boards to insure that water does not enter the cabin by draining downhill through the joints. In other words, make sure that you bevel the edges of the boards down towards the cockpit, taking into account the slope of the companionway. Think roofing shingles.
If you're making simple drop boards....
...you don't need to worry about wood expansion along the length of the board. Wood only expands and contracts appreciably across the grain. Therefore, the boards can be a reasonable fit side to side. On the edges, be sure to bevel the boards to insure that water does not enter the cabin by draining downhill through the joints. In other words, make sure that you bevel the edges of the boards down towards the cockpit, taking into account the slope of the companionway. Think roofing shingles.
...you don't need to worry about wood expansion along the length of the board. Wood only expands and contracts appreciably across the grain. Therefore, the boards can be a reasonable fit side to side. On the edges, be sure to bevel the boards to insure that water does not enter the cabin by draining downhill through the joints. In other words, make sure that you bevel the edges of the boards down towards the cockpit, taking into account the slope of the companionway. Think roofing shingles.
Sorry Bob, just re-read your question
and realized you really are talking about doors, as you mention "stiles and rails." You're right in anticipating that you'll need to account for expansion of any insert panel across the grain. You might want to consider louvers (like a house shutter) instead of a solid panel. This design would benefit from a screen behind it to keep out the bugs.
and realized you really are talking about doors, as you mention "stiles and rails." You're right in anticipating that you'll need to account for expansion of any insert panel across the grain. You might want to consider louvers (like a house shutter) instead of a solid panel. This design would benefit from a screen behind it to keep out the bugs.
Sorry Bob, just re-read your question
and realized you really are talking about doors, as you mention "stiles and rails." You're right in anticipating that you'll need to account for expansion of any insert panel across the grain. You might want to consider louvers (like a house shutter) instead of a solid panel. This design would benefit from a screen behind it to keep out the bugs.
and realized you really are talking about doors, as you mention "stiles and rails." You're right in anticipating that you'll need to account for expansion of any insert panel across the grain. You might want to consider louvers (like a house shutter) instead of a solid panel. This design would benefit from a screen behind it to keep out the bugs.
Currently have
My brother currently has drop boards and a set of swinging screen doors. The screen doors are mounted on removable hinges. They just slide down in place. I intend to make the new doors drop on the same pins and remove the screen doors.. I am also aware of expansion, that is why this question came up. What I dont know is how much to allow for it. I need a number like in 1/32" or 1/16" whatever. Thanks Bob V.
My brother currently has drop boards and a set of swinging screen doors. The screen doors are mounted on removable hinges. They just slide down in place. I intend to make the new doors drop on the same pins and remove the screen doors.. I am also aware of expansion, that is why this question came up. What I dont know is how much to allow for it. I need a number like in 1/32" or 1/16" whatever. Thanks Bob V.
Currently have
My brother currently has drop boards and a set of swinging screen doors. The screen doors are mounted on removable hinges. They just slide down in place. I intend to make the new doors drop on the same pins and remove the screen doors.. I am also aware of expansion, that is why this question came up. What I dont know is how much to allow for it. I need a number like in 1/32" or 1/16" whatever. Thanks Bob V.
My brother currently has drop boards and a set of swinging screen doors. The screen doors are mounted on removable hinges. They just slide down in place. I intend to make the new doors drop on the same pins and remove the screen doors.. I am also aware of expansion, that is why this question came up. What I dont know is how much to allow for it. I need a number like in 1/32" or 1/16" whatever. Thanks Bob V.
Uhhh.... DRY in July????
Ross - dry in July? You must be kidding! On one July we had "measurable precip" every single day! The asphalt parking lot for my office was GREEN! You know, kinda ;D It gets kinda hard to figure out when to do bottom painting sometimes. In the winter it is too cold and wet but the yard rates are lower, then spring comes and the weather can be anything so you wait until it "warms up" a bit (that's about 10 degrees over winter temp) in the hopes it'll be drier and then..... there's no such thing as dry rain. Ummm..., wait a minute... just thought of something. Just for the heck of it, a quick question: Is snow considered "wet" or "dry"? Okay, okay.... I know already! In Montana the snow is considered "dry", but in general, for the rest of us? P.S. I'm getting bored - can you tell? But hey, the days are getting longer!!!
Ross - dry in July? You must be kidding! On one July we had "measurable precip" every single day! The asphalt parking lot for my office was GREEN! You know, kinda ;D It gets kinda hard to figure out when to do bottom painting sometimes. In the winter it is too cold and wet but the yard rates are lower, then spring comes and the weather can be anything so you wait until it "warms up" a bit (that's about 10 degrees over winter temp) in the hopes it'll be drier and then..... there's no such thing as dry rain. Ummm..., wait a minute... just thought of something. Just for the heck of it, a quick question: Is snow considered "wet" or "dry"? Okay, okay.... I know already! In Montana the snow is considered "dry", but in general, for the rest of us? P.S. I'm getting bored - can you tell? But hey, the days are getting longer!!!
Uhhh.... DRY in July????
Ross - dry in July? You must be kidding! On one July we had "measurable precip" every single day! The asphalt parking lot for my office was GREEN! You know, kinda ;D It gets kinda hard to figure out when to do bottom painting sometimes. In the winter it is too cold and wet but the yard rates are lower, then spring comes and the weather can be anything so you wait until it "warms up" a bit (that's about 10 degrees over winter temp) in the hopes it'll be drier and then..... there's no such thing as dry rain. Ummm..., wait a minute... just thought of something. Just for the heck of it, a quick question: Is snow considered "wet" or "dry"? Okay, okay.... I know already! In Montana the snow is considered "dry", but in general, for the rest of us? P.S. I'm getting bored - can you tell? But hey, the days are getting longer!!!
Ross - dry in July? You must be kidding! On one July we had "measurable precip" every single day! The asphalt parking lot for my office was GREEN! You know, kinda ;D It gets kinda hard to figure out when to do bottom painting sometimes. In the winter it is too cold and wet but the yard rates are lower, then spring comes and the weather can be anything so you wait until it "warms up" a bit (that's about 10 degrees over winter temp) in the hopes it'll be drier and then..... there's no such thing as dry rain. Ummm..., wait a minute... just thought of something. Just for the heck of it, a quick question: Is snow considered "wet" or "dry"? Okay, okay.... I know already! In Montana the snow is considered "dry", but in general, for the rest of us? P.S. I'm getting bored - can you tell? But hey, the days are getting longer!!!
Sometimes snow is as hard and dry as sand
and sometimes it clumps together in flakes as big as cookies and sticks to everything. This past summer we went without rain in some places for nearly two months. When they (the weather people) said scattered showers that's what we got. You could stand in the sun on a dry parking lot and watch it rain on the other side of the road.
and sometimes it clumps together in flakes as big as cookies and sticks to everything. This past summer we went without rain in some places for nearly two months. When they (the weather people) said scattered showers that's what we got. You could stand in the sun on a dry parking lot and watch it rain on the other side of the road.
Sometimes snow is as hard and dry as sand
and sometimes it clumps together in flakes as big as cookies and sticks to everything. This past summer we went without rain in some places for nearly two months. When they (the weather people) said scattered showers that's what we got. You could stand in the sun on a dry parking lot and watch it rain on the other side of the road.
and sometimes it clumps together in flakes as big as cookies and sticks to everything. This past summer we went without rain in some places for nearly two months. When they (the weather people) said scattered showers that's what we got. You could stand in the sun on a dry parking lot and watch it rain on the other side of the road.
ahhhh ... the snow in Montana ...
can't wait to get there in February!
Bob, it's obvious that you are talking about doors and not drop boards. So I assume that your insert board should be water-tight after you fit it together with the stiles and rails. I am also assuming that my skill level in cabinetry is probably less than yours so I am puzzled why you would allow any room for expansion. I think that I would make it a snug fit and use a waterproof adhesive for the joints. I would then finish the wood to seal it off from exposure to water as best you can.
can't wait to get there in February!
Bob, it's obvious that you are talking about doors and not drop boards. So I assume that your insert board should be water-tight after you fit it together with the stiles and rails. I am also assuming that my skill level in cabinetry is probably less than yours so I am puzzled why you would allow any room for expansion. I think that I would make it a snug fit and use a waterproof adhesive for the joints. I would then finish the wood to seal it off from exposure to water as best you can.ahhhh ... the snow in Montana ...
can't wait to get there in February! Bob, it's obvious that you are talking about doors and not drop boards. So I assume that your insert board should be water-tight after you fit it together with the stiles and rails. I am also assuming that my skill level in cabinetry is probably less than yours so I am puzzled why you would allow any room for expansion. I think that I would make it a snug fit and use a waterproof adhesive for the joints. I would then finish the wood to seal it off from exposure to water as best you can.
can't wait to get there in February!
Bob, it's obvious that you are talking about doors and not drop boards. So I assume that your insert board should be water-tight after you fit it together with the stiles and rails. I am also assuming that my skill level in cabinetry is probably less than yours so I am puzzled why you would allow any room for expansion. I think that I would make it a snug fit and use a waterproof adhesive for the joints. I would then finish the wood to seal it off from exposure to water as best you can.Companionway Doors
Bob: I am working on the design now for conmpanionway doors for my 33' Hunter. I am using many of the excellent ideas posted...plus: I think I will leave the current "boards" system in place as an emergency measure. I am planning on designing the "doors" to fit to the rear (aft) of the slots for the factory installed "boards". I also think that the removable hinge pins are an excellent idea and serves to allow the doors to be stored when away from the boat for any length of time and the "slats" used instead. This would reduce the "wear and tear" on expensive doors and allow for the greater security provided by slats. I plan on making the doors "see-thru" by using smoked amber plexiglass. These units will be removeable and I plan on "fitting" replaceable screens for those romantic (yet, bug-filled nights). I am still considering a number of ideas about how to hold the plexiglass/screens in place.
Bob: I am working on the design now for conmpanionway doors for my 33' Hunter. I am using many of the excellent ideas posted...plus: I think I will leave the current "boards" system in place as an emergency measure. I am planning on designing the "doors" to fit to the rear (aft) of the slots for the factory installed "boards". I also think that the removable hinge pins are an excellent idea and serves to allow the doors to be stored when away from the boat for any length of time and the "slats" used instead. This would reduce the "wear and tear" on expensive doors and allow for the greater security provided by slats. I plan on making the doors "see-thru" by using smoked amber plexiglass. These units will be removeable and I plan on "fitting" replaceable screens for those romantic (yet, bug-filled nights). I am still considering a number of ideas about how to hold the plexiglass/screens in place.
Companionway Doors
Bob: I am working on the design now for conmpanionway doors for my 33' Hunter. I am using many of the excellent ideas posted...plus: I think I will leave the current "boards" system in place as an emergency measure. I am planning on designing the "doors" to fit to the rear (aft) of the slots for the factory installed "boards". I also think that the removable hinge pins are an excellent idea and serves to allow the doors to be stored when away from the boat for any length of time and the "slats" used instead. This would reduce the "wear and tear" on expensive doors and allow for the greater security provided by slats. I plan on making the doors "see-thru" by using smoked amber plexiglass. These units will be removeable and I plan on "fitting" replaceable screens for those romantic (yet, bug-filled nights). I am still considering a number of ideas about how to hold the plexiglass/screens in place.
Bob: I am working on the design now for conmpanionway doors for my 33' Hunter. I am using many of the excellent ideas posted...plus: I think I will leave the current "boards" system in place as an emergency measure. I am planning on designing the "doors" to fit to the rear (aft) of the slots for the factory installed "boards". I also think that the removable hinge pins are an excellent idea and serves to allow the doors to be stored when away from the boat for any length of time and the "slats" used instead. This would reduce the "wear and tear" on expensive doors and allow for the greater security provided by slats. I plan on making the doors "see-thru" by using smoked amber plexiglass. These units will be removeable and I plan on "fitting" replaceable screens for those romantic (yet, bug-filled nights). I am still considering a number of ideas about how to hold the plexiglass/screens in place.
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