Hello All and thanks in advance for the help. I have an 89' Hunter 30G with a Yanmar 2gm20F that was winterized in the fall with the "blue stuff" The boat has been dormant since October and I'm concerned about "filling the muffler" if I have to crank the engine too long. I've searched the archive and read that most of the water lift mufflers on the hunters dont have a drain. What is the best way to drain the muffler if I crank for 30 seconds? If I start the engine with the seacock closed will I burn out the impeller? Thanks again, Tim S/V SeaDog Tahoe Keys - Lake Tahoe
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Commissioning
"Blue stuff"? Is that windshield washer fluid? Have you looked at your muffler (should be a box (or a tank) with a big hose in, and a big hose out)? Look for one of those wing nut looking things that you turn left to open, and right to close. If it really doesn't have one, add one. You can more than likely find one at an auto parts store. You should have one on your engine, and on the radiator of your car (although I haven't looked at new cars lately).
"Blue stuff"? Is that windshield washer fluid? Have you looked at your muffler (should be a box (or a tank) with a big hose in, and a big hose out)? Look for one of those wing nut looking things that you turn left to open, and right to close. If it really doesn't have one, add one. You can more than likely find one at an auto parts store. You should have one on your engine, and on the radiator of your car (although I haven't looked at new cars lately).
Here is what I do
to start the same engine after winter layup: close the raw water intake seacock. pull out the engine stop lever. crank the engine for about 5 secs. Do this twice to pre-lube the engine. open the seacock and push in the engine stop lever crank the engine for no more than 15 secs. If the engine was in good working order when it was laid up for the winter and the fuel is "fairly fresh" from last season, and the fuel filters are not clogged, it should start right up. If it does not, it has some other problem which continued cranking will not solve. When I first started my 2GM20F after the winter layup about 10 days ago, it was about 45-degrees here. I think that Yanmars, without glow plugs, are cold hearted beasts and require a little assistance when the outside temps are below 55-deg or so. This is due to the cold cylinders having trouble getting hot enough from the compressed fuel to start. On those kinds of days, I run an electric hair dryer in front of the air intake when starting. The engine thinks its mid-summer and starts right up. Whatever works, works. Good luck.
to start the same engine after winter layup: close the raw water intake seacock. pull out the engine stop lever. crank the engine for about 5 secs. Do this twice to pre-lube the engine. open the seacock and push in the engine stop lever crank the engine for no more than 15 secs. If the engine was in good working order when it was laid up for the winter and the fuel is "fairly fresh" from last season, and the fuel filters are not clogged, it should start right up. If it does not, it has some other problem which continued cranking will not solve. When I first started my 2GM20F after the winter layup about 10 days ago, it was about 45-degrees here. I think that Yanmars, without glow plugs, are cold hearted beasts and require a little assistance when the outside temps are below 55-deg or so. This is due to the cold cylinders having trouble getting hot enough from the compressed fuel to start. On those kinds of days, I run an electric hair dryer in front of the air intake when starting. The engine thinks its mid-summer and starts right up. Whatever works, works. Good luck.
Blue stuff
I am guessing that blue stuff is the -60 anti freeze. I just start the engine. If she does not catch after a few attempts, I then close the water intake and go from there. The hair dryer is a good idea. I met a guy this past weekend who put a space heater in his engine compartmanet for a while before start up.
I am guessing that blue stuff is the -60 anti freeze. I just start the engine. If she does not catch after a few attempts, I then close the water intake and go from there. The hair dryer is a good idea. I met a guy this past weekend who put a space heater in his engine compartmanet for a while before start up.
Yeah, Mick......
Windshield washer fluid. It doesnt freeze and is leaves a streak free shine. Nah.. I opted for the more expensive -100 antifreeze. I think it was blue....maybe green? as opposed to the "pink stuff". I'll look for the drain and I think I will take your advice about installing a valve if there isnt one there. I'll save the washer fluid for my car. Tim
Windshield washer fluid. It doesnt freeze and is leaves a streak free shine. Nah.. I opted for the more expensive -100 antifreeze. I think it was blue....maybe green? as opposed to the "pink stuff". I'll look for the drain and I think I will take your advice about installing a valve if there isnt one there. I'll save the washer fluid for my car. Tim
2GM20 starting
Unless you had problems withthe engine lasty season when you winterized it , you shouldn't assume you will have one starting it. IMHO installing a drain on the waterlift muffler is unecessary. Do you anticipate that you'll have to crank the engine so long the waterlift water will backup into the manifold? On my 2GM20, the waterinjection nipple is higher than the highest point of the exhaust side of the waterlift muffler and that nipple injects the water into a separate downstream chamber side of the exhaust elbow. Follow Warren's instructions and I'llk bet she'll start right up.
Unless you had problems withthe engine lasty season when you winterized it , you shouldn't assume you will have one starting it. IMHO installing a drain on the waterlift muffler is unecessary. Do you anticipate that you'll have to crank the engine so long the waterlift water will backup into the manifold? On my 2GM20, the waterinjection nipple is higher than the highest point of the exhaust side of the waterlift muffler and that nipple injects the water into a separate downstream chamber side of the exhaust elbow. Follow Warren's instructions and I'llk bet she'll start right up.
Verbatim Mack Boring / Yanmar Start Up Procedure
Warren's procedure mirror's perfectly the Mack Boring (Larry Berlin) & Yanmar procedures. The fuel shut off assures a minimum of metal-to-metal before the surfaces are coated in oil. Closing the water prevents 'water packing'. Plus, the 15 seconds is a good time boundary to used during the season to prevent damage to the engine. Bad things happen (bent shafts & rods) when you try to compress water...which won't. Good luck w/ your spring re-start. Enjoy your season!
Warren's procedure mirror's perfectly the Mack Boring (Larry Berlin) & Yanmar procedures. The fuel shut off assures a minimum of metal-to-metal before the surfaces are coated in oil. Closing the water prevents 'water packing'. Plus, the 15 seconds is a good time boundary to used during the season to prevent damage to the engine. Bad things happen (bent shafts & rods) when you try to compress water...which won't. Good luck w/ your spring re-start. Enjoy your season!
Draining water lift muffler?
Mick, Your post about draining the water lift muffler made sense to me when I read it. This is one piece of equipment on my old motor (A4) I do not want to have to replace too soon as it is in an awkward place on my 27' sailboat. I do not remember ever reading this as a winterization process for my engine and have never done it. I have just left some anti-freeze in the system while over wintering. I will check my water lift muffler for a drain and possibly add this task to my haul-out procedures. It makes sense that water is more corrosive than air. I guess leaving just some anti-freeze in there is the best way to go. Thanks.
Mick, Your post about draining the water lift muffler made sense to me when I read it. This is one piece of equipment on my old motor (A4) I do not want to have to replace too soon as it is in an awkward place on my 27' sailboat. I do not remember ever reading this as a winterization process for my engine and have never done it. I have just left some anti-freeze in the system while over wintering. I will check my water lift muffler for a drain and possibly add this task to my haul-out procedures. It makes sense that water is more corrosive than air. I guess leaving just some anti-freeze in there is the best way to go. Thanks.
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