Combi

Trevykins · Sep 4, 2007

Hi Gang, I have been sailing every spare minute since launching Mystic
Rose earlier this month and I just love her to bits. I am wondering
though about the COMBI. It appears that water is getting into the
shift housing just aft of the engine. I add grease to it, and the
grease slowly oozes out as I motor along leaving a little pile under
the housing after each trip. I can tell that water is getting in
because the black marine grease comes out a whitish colour. Two
questions:
(a) how does water get into this housing?
(b) is there a seal or something that I can replace to correct the
problem?

Thanks, Trev (V2915)

chris20636 · Sep 4, 2007

Hi Again, Trevor:

Yes, there is a way to drasticly reduce the amount of water that gets into
the box.

On the propeller hub is a threaded hole that probably has a square-headed
plug in it. While your boat is High-and-Dry, remove the plug and insert a
grease plug into it. Then just pump and pump and pump grease into it.

The propeller shaft is really two shafts: The inner one is a solid
stainless shaft, approximately 3/4 inch in diameter. This one turns the propeller.
The outer one is a bronze tube that slides fore-and-aft as you move the control
lever; its purpose is to change the angle of the propeller blades from
forward to reverse.

Now, by pumping grease into the prop hub, you are filling the very small
void between the inner and outer shaft, which should prevent the entry of water.

Be sure to use a good, waterproof grease, and replace the grease fitting
with the plug when finished.

Ed
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trevy_kins · Sep 4, 2007

Thanks Ed.

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of SaylerEd@...
Sent: September 4, 2007 6:48 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Combi
Hi Again, Trevor:

Yes, there is a way to drasticly reduce the amount of water that gets
into
the box.

On the propeller hub is a threaded hole that probably has a
square-headed
plug in it. While your boat is High-and-Dry, remove the plug and insert
a
grease plug into it. Then just pump and pump and pump grease into it.

The propeller shaft is really two shafts: The inner one is a solid
stainless shaft, approximately 3/4 inch in diameter. This one turns the
propeller.
The outer one is a bronze tube that slides fore-and-aft as you move the
control
lever; its purpose is to change the angle of the propeller blades from
forward to reverse.

Now, by pumping grease into the prop hub, you are filling the very small

void between the inner and outer shaft, which should prevent the entry
of water.

Be sure to use a good, waterproof grease, and replace the grease fitting

with the plug when finished.

Ed

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AOL at

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wxt8981 · Sep 5, 2007

Hi.:
a much better way is to change the O-rings between the
shaft and the sleeve. Unfortunately, this can only be done
with the boat on the dry.
Wilhelm, V-257

trevy_kins · Sep 5, 2007

Wilhelm, thanks. Have you done this yourself? Is it difficult? Any
tips? Thanks, Trev V-2915

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of WL
Sent: September 5, 2007 11:38 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] Combi
Hi.:
a much better way is to change the O-rings between the
shaft and the sleeve. Unfortunately, this can only be done
with the boat on the dry.
Wilhelm, V-257

stevebirch2002 · Sep 5, 2007

Have a look at the download page at HYPERLINK
"http://www.albinvega.co.uk"www.albinvega.co.uk where you will find
Combi instructions and diagrams. Also on the yahoo group files page.

Cheers

Steve B

wxt8981 · Sep 5, 2007

Hi Trevor,
I no longer have a combi, but I used to take the shaft +
sleeve out many times. It isn't too difficult. Just
remember, the sleeve has a left threat.
I understand Steve answered and gave you instructions. At
your next haul-out you should try to put in new O-rings.
It's absolutely NOT good to get water into the area of the
forward part of the shaft- it will then go into the engine!
Wilhelm, V-257

trevy_kins · Sep 6, 2007

Thanks Steve and Wilhelm. Two questions:

(a) are O-rings and other Combi spares (i.e.stern bearing) available
from the association?
(b) how could water get into engine from shift-lever compartment? They
are lubricated differently, so I assumed they were totally separated
compartments?

Anxiously yours,

Trev (V-215)

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of WL
Sent: September 5, 2007 9:01 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] Combi
Hi Trevor,
I no longer have a combi, but I used to take the shaft +
sleeve out many times. It isn't too difficult. Just
remember, the sleeve has a left threat.
I understand Steve answered and gave you instructions. At
your next haul-out you should try to put in new O-rings.
It's absolutely NOT good to get water into the area of the
forward part of the shaft- it will then go into the engine!
Wilhelm, V-257

Trevykins · Sep 6, 2007

Thanks Steve and Wilhelm. Just a few more questions:

(a)Steve, are seals and other parts available for the Combi?
(b)Wilhelm how will water get into engine from the Combi shift
housing? Aren't they separate compartments? And why were you
dismantling your Combi so often?

Cheers, Trev V-2915

stevebirch2002 · Sep 6, 2007

Hi Trev

Complete Combi Renovation kit available from VAGB for the diesel Combi.
Dont know if the petrol one is teh same.

Cheers

Steve B

wxt8981 · Sep 6, 2007

The propeller shaft and the sleeve don't end the same way
in the prop.The shaft is fastened (with a key) to the
prop-housing.. The sleeve is fastened at the end of the
prop (with a left threat!)There is room between the shaft
and the sleeve and water can get forward to the
compartment.But the O-ring between the shaft and the sleeve
(In the prop) prevents water to get by.
Wilhelm, V-257

stevebirch2002 · Sep 7, 2007

Hi Wilhelm

Disagree with that. The O Ring in the prop is 25mm ID so for the tube.
The water usually comes up between the shaft and tube but grease stops
that applied from the prop boss. The other place water can get in is via
the Vega sterngland. This has two oil seals and two white metal
bearings. Again teh water travels up on the outside of the control tube
a bit like an "Archimedes Screw"

Cheers

Steve

wxt8981 · Sep 7, 2007

Hi Steve,
I guess you're right. All I remember there were 3 O-rings;
one at the prop, and 2 at the combi. I remember taking all
apart and changing every thing. I no longer have a
combi-drive, just a 25mm shaft and a 3 blade prop
(utilizing the existing stern bearing and stuffing box). I
just recently replaced the stuffing box (though i may have
been months ago- I'm getting old and become forgetful!). I
have 2 stuffing boxes, one always in reserve.
Right now it's hot here- even the water. All I care is that
we don't get a hurricane!
Wilhelm, V-257

trevy_kins · Sep 7, 2007

So I needn't replace the seals, but follow Ed's advice and fill prop
boss with grease to stop the water getting into the combi?

If so, I will haul her out and do that this weekend.

Cheers, Trev V-2915

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of WL
Sent: September 7, 2007 3:11 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] Combi
Hi Steve,
I guess you're right. All I remember there were 3 O-rings;
one at the prop, and 2 at the combi. I remember taking all
apart and changing every thing. I no longer have a
combi-drive, just a 25mm shaft and a 3 blade prop
(utilizing the existing stern bearing and stuffing box). I
just recently replaced the stuffing box (though i may have
been months ago- I'm getting old and become forgetful!). I
have 2 stuffing boxes, one always in reserve.
Right now it's hot here- even the water. All I care is that
we don't get a hurricane!
Wilhelm, V-257

n6ric · May 21, 2011

I'm in the process of removing the MD6A engine and Combi system. Surprisingly, my biggest challenge so far is removing the power (forward/reverse) handle in the cockpit. The setscrew was frozen and I had to drill it out because even an EZ-Out wouldn't remove it. Even with that drilled out, the handle won't come off the shaft. Any suggestions other than a larger hammer. I saturated the shaft and setscrew in penetrating oil and that hasn't helped either. Thanks

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692

stevebirch2002 · May 21, 2011

Hi Ric

Stainless and aluminium dont go! Patience and slowly, slowly is the only method, Try a bit of heat (not too much) and the best fluid Ive tried is ACF50. Fantastic stuff.

acf-50.co.uk

This domain may be for sale!

www.acf-50.co.uk

Cheers

Steve B

schult.cindy · May 21, 2011

Another great fluid that can be purchased at most auto parts and hardware
stores is. P B Blaster.

jbergman888 · May 21, 2011

PB Blaster is readily available in CA. Has anyone compared the two products? While we are on the subject of corrosion, should the stainless rigging be treated with anything to limit corrosion?

Joseph "Bruce" Bergman

tiempo2010 · May 21, 2011

Stainless steel left bare will form a layer of oxidation for protection. In
open air it can be left alone without problems generally. In my area -
Victoria B.C. - it rains a lot which continually washes the salt off. One of
the prominent local riggers suggests stainless rigging should be good for 17
years in this area for a cruiser. In the tropics where there is less rain
and the salt water is warmer he said it should be replaced every 7 years or
so. A fresh water wash never hurts but that is all that is required.
Stainless will be subject to crevice corrosion if it is in a damp area
without the presence of oxygen. Chainplates where they are buried in the
deck which can be wet or damp from leaking are a potential problem as well
as keel bolts in a wet bilge.