Several weeks ago I wrote a post about replacing the main portside bulkhead in my 1985 Hunter 25.5, well the old one is out and the new one is in! Now my task is color matching. I called both Hunter Marine and my Hunter dealer and both indicated that in 1985 the boats were shipped from the factory with no finish on the interior wood. So I am left with a mystery. It seems that the previous owner stained and then varnished the interior wood. The stain has a reddish hue looking very much like cherry. The varnish is a very reflective high gloss. I have some left over scraps of the teak veneered plywood used in the replacement bulkhead and I have been trying various stains in an attempt to get something that looks close enough. Right now my best guess is an Olympic oil based stain of the American Cherry color. And I am trying Epifane clear gloss varnish. I don't know a whole lot about finishing wood. Is the use of an oil based stain ok? This stain I think is more designed for furniture, will it last in the interior of my boat? Do you'all have any suggestion about how to better go about finding a stain/varnish that will match closely? Thanks for your help. Also if anyone know a good procedure for applying teak plugs into previously finished wood that would be helpful. What kind of glue? How do you make sure the surface is flush?
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John K Kudera
I agree with you
We went thru the same trial on our H34, I went the same route you did, and have had no problems at all. It's been 4 years! We just keep it waxed and clean. John
We went thru the same trial on our H34, I went the same route you did, and have had no problems at all. It's been 4 years! We just keep it waxed and clean. John
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Tom FitzGibbon
Wood Finishes
I think any stain you use will be OK, whether water, oil or alcohol based for the marine environment. The real key is the clear finish you put on top of it, but you need to ensure the stain and the varnish are compatible. I'm not an expert in this area, but there are lots of good books, magazine articles and websites that have lots of information on finishing wood. You might also check the manufacturer's website for advice or ask where you buy the varnish. If your stain gets you close but you want an exact match, you might want to use a tone spray. These are basically aerosol spray paint cans that, instead of paint, contain tinted varnish (or another clear finish) that is sprayed over the top of the base finish to add color shades or adjust color tones. They're not an everday item at Home Depot (at least not the one I shop at), but furniture makers and restorers use them all the time. If you want, send me an e-mail (I'm in the owners directory) and I can send you the name of at least one catalog where you can get these. Finally, to install plugs, I'd use a waterproof glue like Gorilla Glue. Generally, you can either buy plugs or make them yourself for the diameter you need, but the height becomes the issue. They need to be trimmed with a flexible saw and then CAREFULLY sanded flat so that you don't mar the surrounding finish (nearly impossible). One tip is to cut a hole slightly larger in diameter than your plug in a piece of thin plasstic laminate (I suppose if you're careful, a thin piece of cardboard may even work). You then put the hole over the plug so the plug protrudes through the hole but the surrounding area is protected by the laminate. This allows you to cut off the plug to the thickness of the laminate with no damage to the surrounding area. Then you just sand carefully and touch up the finish with the stain. When installing the plugs, they'll look better if you take the time to make sute the grain in the plug runs in the same direction as the grain in the surrounding wood. Tom FitzGibbon Plan B
I think any stain you use will be OK, whether water, oil or alcohol based for the marine environment. The real key is the clear finish you put on top of it, but you need to ensure the stain and the varnish are compatible. I'm not an expert in this area, but there are lots of good books, magazine articles and websites that have lots of information on finishing wood. You might also check the manufacturer's website for advice or ask where you buy the varnish. If your stain gets you close but you want an exact match, you might want to use a tone spray. These are basically aerosol spray paint cans that, instead of paint, contain tinted varnish (or another clear finish) that is sprayed over the top of the base finish to add color shades or adjust color tones. They're not an everday item at Home Depot (at least not the one I shop at), but furniture makers and restorers use them all the time. If you want, send me an e-mail (I'm in the owners directory) and I can send you the name of at least one catalog where you can get these. Finally, to install plugs, I'd use a waterproof glue like Gorilla Glue. Generally, you can either buy plugs or make them yourself for the diameter you need, but the height becomes the issue. They need to be trimmed with a flexible saw and then CAREFULLY sanded flat so that you don't mar the surrounding finish (nearly impossible). One tip is to cut a hole slightly larger in diameter than your plug in a piece of thin plasstic laminate (I suppose if you're careful, a thin piece of cardboard may even work). You then put the hole over the plug so the plug protrudes through the hole but the surrounding area is protected by the laminate. This allows you to cut off the plug to the thickness of the laminate with no damage to the surrounding area. Then you just sand carefully and touch up the finish with the stain. When installing the plugs, they'll look better if you take the time to make sute the grain in the plug runs in the same direction as the grain in the surrounding wood. Tom FitzGibbon Plan B
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Steve Cook
Plug trim and stuff
I agree with the last post as for the finish. You might try your local paint store for advise. As for trimming the plugs, I like to use a very, very sharp chisel and carefully shave the plug. If you do it right, you won't have to do any sanding and try not to cut yourself. Steve, s/v The Odyssey (H310)
I agree with the last post as for the finish. You might try your local paint store for advise. As for trimming the plugs, I like to use a very, very sharp chisel and carefully shave the plug. If you do it right, you won't have to do any sanding and try not to cut yourself. Steve, s/v The Odyssey (H310)
Dalys Seafin
Have you tried just using the Dalys Seafin? This is what the interiors are usually finished with. Try some on your scraps before you worry about the stains.
Have you tried just using the Dalys Seafin? This is what the interiors are usually finished with. Try some on your scraps before you worry about the stains.
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TOM MANALILI
YOUR HALF RIGHT
I have mixed a dark brown walnut with a coliony red cherry, both min wax oilbased stains, and it's too close to attemp another.but I didn't varnish or urithane.
I have mixed a dark brown walnut with a coliony red cherry, both min wax oilbased stains, and it's too close to attemp another.but I didn't varnish or urithane.
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John K Kudera
One more thing
I was advised by Mark from Mark Plastics, be sure to cover any ports if you paint or spray anything with a chemical base that will emit fumes, the fumes will create havoc with the plastic port glass.
I was advised by Mark from Mark Plastics, be sure to cover any ports if you paint or spray anything with a chemical base that will emit fumes, the fumes will create havoc with the plastic port glass.
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