Questions with regard to cold weather storage-haul out: 1. Water heater-how many of you bypass the heater, hook the hoses together, and winterize? If I bypass, do I need to winterize the water heater? I'm thinking I just might pour 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze in the system and let it cycle through the heater and plumbing. Good or bad idea? 2. What about uncoupling the prop shaft? I've never done it before on previous boats, but this is what the owner's manual recomends. This is my first "brand new" boat, and I want to get it right. Thanks in advance for your responses.
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Good questions
Run down the water to the point that it has less than 10 gallons. Cycle through 2 gallons of pink antifreeze for water systems (not to be confused with heavier version for engines). Come spring, simply flush it all out with water. No need to disconnect the shaft. I can't imagine what they're thinking. Enjoy your winter projects. I find that I'm not bothered by anyone, for fear I'll engage them in the venture. Ah, solitude.
Run down the water to the point that it has less than 10 gallons. Cycle through 2 gallons of pink antifreeze for water systems (not to be confused with heavier version for engines). Come spring, simply flush it all out with water. No need to disconnect the shaft. I can't imagine what they're thinking. Enjoy your winter projects. I find that I'm not bothered by anyone, for fear I'll engage them in the venture. Ah, solitude.
Drain the hot water tank
I always drain the hot water tank, bypass it and use a minimum of the red stuff. No need to put anti freeze in the hot water tank if it's drained. This way it doesn't take forever in the spring to get the red stuff out of the FW system. Don't forget the fridge drain, shower drains etc.
I always drain the hot water tank, bypass it and use a minimum of the red stuff. No need to put anti freeze in the hot water tank if it's drained. This way it doesn't take forever in the spring to get the red stuff out of the FW system. Don't forget the fridge drain, shower drains etc.
Winterizing
Tim: Don't know what brand of boat you have (always informative to have the brand). If it is a new Hunter, the boat manual probably won't tell you, but the water heater is fitted with quick disconnect couplings that allow you to disconnect the heater and reconnect the two hoses, therby bypassing the heater (drain it first into the bilge by means of the hose fitting), no sweat. It's a push pull operation. Be sure to have no pressure on the system and do not force any of the couplings as they are just plastic. Also, be informed that one of the couplings appears to operate differently when you uncouple the bypass next spring. We almost went nuts trying to find out that little bit of info. Once you know how, the whole thing takes 5 minutes to bypass the heater. You want to go out of your way not to get RV antifreeze in the heater tank. Tastes terrible!!! Funny that Hunter should go to the trouble of installing easily bypassed couplings and then not putting that in the boat Tech manual. But that's what they did on our 2005 H-306.
Tim: Don't know what brand of boat you have (always informative to have the brand). If it is a new Hunter, the boat manual probably won't tell you, but the water heater is fitted with quick disconnect couplings that allow you to disconnect the heater and reconnect the two hoses, therby bypassing the heater (drain it first into the bilge by means of the hose fitting), no sweat. It's a push pull operation. Be sure to have no pressure on the system and do not force any of the couplings as they are just plastic. Also, be informed that one of the couplings appears to operate differently when you uncouple the bypass next spring. We almost went nuts trying to find out that little bit of info. Once you know how, the whole thing takes 5 minutes to bypass the heater. You want to go out of your way not to get RV antifreeze in the heater tank. Tastes terrible!!! Funny that Hunter should go to the trouble of installing easily bypassed couplings and then not putting that in the boat Tech manual. But that's what they did on our 2005 H-306.
Boy, what a chore you guys have.
Reading all of the posting about winterizing your boat, I am so glad we live here in Puget Sound. The most winterizing we do here is making sure our tummies are warm. The best wind for sailing here is during the winter, but mostly only the real hardy sailors go out. However, a sunny day during the winter, that is another story. I really have to hand it to all you guys, and your love of sailing. Good for you.
Reading all of the posting about winterizing your boat, I am so glad we live here in Puget Sound. The most winterizing we do here is making sure our tummies are warm. The best wind for sailing here is during the winter, but mostly only the real hardy sailors go out. However, a sunny day during the winter, that is another story. I really have to hand it to all you guys, and your love of sailing. Good for you.
What's that
The best way to winterize is to move to the west coast... Although a summer in San Francisco might almost be like a winter in Michigan. I would sure hate to say goodbye to my boat for six months.
The best way to winterize is to move to the west coast... Although a summer in San Francisco might almost be like a winter in Michigan. I would sure hate to say goodbye to my boat for six months.
Winterizing ??
I read the words but don't comprehend. Sorry guys, but I really can't comprehend having to winterize my boat. For me it means I will only use my boat every other weekend. The odd ones I get to work around the house. But I do Wish you the best of luck !!!..bobcat
I read the words but don't comprehend. Sorry guys, but I really can't comprehend having to winterize my boat. For me it means I will only use my boat every other weekend. The odd ones I get to work around the house. But I do Wish you the best of luck !!!..bobcat
winterizing
I have always read that the shaft should be disconnected upon haulout because the cradle/jack stads can distort the hull shape and put pressure on that fitting. Get the winterizing done then get out of MI
I have always read that the shaft should be disconnected upon haulout because the cradle/jack stads can distort the hull shape and put pressure on that fitting. Get the winterizing done then get out of MI
I only wish...
I could get out of Michigan, BUT, 6 months without sailing does make me appreciate it more. I do need to say that though Michigan winters are the absolute pits, Michigan summers are awesome. Anyway, my only concern with bypassing the water heater is that, I think these units are glass-lined inside (and I'm somewhat concerned that extreme cold might be problem). My boat is a '05 Cat 310, and access is very good to the plumbing system. Also, js was right on the mark about de-coupling the shaft, however, again, I have owned a boat for 11 years, and never experienced any problems with shaft mis-alignment due to having the boat sit in a cradle for six months (I guess there is always a first time though).
I could get out of Michigan, BUT, 6 months without sailing does make me appreciate it more. I do need to say that though Michigan winters are the absolute pits, Michigan summers are awesome. Anyway, my only concern with bypassing the water heater is that, I think these units are glass-lined inside (and I'm somewhat concerned that extreme cold might be problem). My boat is a '05 Cat 310, and access is very good to the plumbing system. Also, js was right on the mark about de-coupling the shaft, however, again, I have owned a boat for 11 years, and never experienced any problems with shaft mis-alignment due to having the boat sit in a cradle for six months (I guess there is always a first time though).
Just Remember....
...that if you uncouple the shaft (I never heard of doing that) that when you recouple it in the spring, that it must be realigned or else you will vibrate and possibly wear out your cutless bearing. Not to mention the stuffing box problems that could occur.
...that if you uncouple the shaft (I never heard of doing that) that when you recouple it in the spring, that it must be realigned or else you will vibrate and possibly wear out your cutless bearing. Not to mention the stuffing box problems that could occur.
Thanks Paul.
I think though that I'll not disconnect the shaft and take my chances. Next spring when I power up, and put 'er in gear, hopefully I won't be feeling any new vibrations. Again, my Westerbeke/Universal owners manual recomends it, but my dealer is telling me that it may not be necessary (it's the "may" part that concerns me). Thanks to all for your input.
I think though that I'll not disconnect the shaft and take my chances. Next spring when I power up, and put 'er in gear, hopefully I won't be feeling any new vibrations. Again, my Westerbeke/Universal owners manual recomends it, but my dealer is telling me that it may not be necessary (it's the "may" part that concerns me). Thanks to all for your input.
Winterizing plumbing
FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
small compressor
I will unhook and drain the water heaterinto the bilge. I'll then hook the water heater hoses together bypassing th water heater. Next, I uncouple the water hoses at the fresh water pump and use a small portable compressor to blow all the water out of the lines. I've been leary about putting the pink stuff in my fresh water system.
I will unhook and drain the water heaterinto the bilge. I'll then hook the water heater hoses together bypassing th water heater. Next, I uncouple the water hoses at the fresh water pump and use a small portable compressor to blow all the water out of the lines. I've been leary about putting the pink stuff in my fresh water system.
Recommissioning the system in the spring
Which should be done every year anyway, will eliminate the taste/smell of antifreeze. However, it's not freezing cold that damages plumbing, it's water left in the lines to freeze and expand that does. So if you blow all the water out of the entire system, you shouldn't need any antifreeze. Just don't forget to blow it out of the pump and the line from the tank TO the pump too. Btw...forget using cheap vodka. Although straight vodka won't freeze--at least not to -0- F, even an 80/20 cut will. So unless you remove ALL the water from the plumbing, it won't work...and if you remove all the water from the plumbing, you don't need it. Anyone who claims that putting vodka in the tank works could get by without winterizing at all.
Which should be done every year anyway, will eliminate the taste/smell of antifreeze. However, it's not freezing cold that damages plumbing, it's water left in the lines to freeze and expand that does. So if you blow all the water out of the entire system, you shouldn't need any antifreeze. Just don't forget to blow it out of the pump and the line from the tank TO the pump too. Btw...forget using cheap vodka. Although straight vodka won't freeze--at least not to -0- F, even an 80/20 cut will. So unless you remove ALL the water from the plumbing, it won't work...and if you remove all the water from the plumbing, you don't need it. Anyone who claims that putting vodka in the tank works could get by without winterizing at all.
I'll take Lake Ontario
I'll put up with sailing on Lake Ontario's short FRESH WATER summer over any ocean sailing, regardless of the length of the season. Yes, we're in the process of winterizing and we're hauling this Sunday. The Hunter Forum has been very helpful to us. I bypass the hot water heater. I expect to repack the stuffing box for the first time on our 2002 H-356 and will reattach the shaft before hauling.
I'll put up with sailing on Lake Ontario's short FRESH WATER summer over any ocean sailing, regardless of the length of the season. Yes, we're in the process of winterizing and we're hauling this Sunday. The Hunter Forum has been very helpful to us. I bypass the hot water heater. I expect to repack the stuffing box for the first time on our 2002 H-356 and will reattach the shaft before hauling.
Get to know you boat
One thing about winterizing, you really get to know your boat. You get to know the systems. We also unstep the mast when we haul. Met lot of folks down south that never had their mast out, wonder how we do it every year. You learn and get used to it. Just another aspect of sailing in the great white north. Lake Ontario sailing is excellent in the summer. Especially this year.
One thing about winterizing, you really get to know your boat. You get to know the systems. We also unstep the mast when we haul. Met lot of folks down south that never had their mast out, wonder how we do it every year. You learn and get used to it. Just another aspect of sailing in the great white north. Lake Ontario sailing is excellent in the summer. Especially this year.
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