Cold start poor

[Geoff K]

I've seen this topic on other forums but never sorted out my own problem. A Volvo MD11c needs lots of crank time to start when cold, immediate start when warm, even 4 hours after running. By lots of time cranking, I crank for 20-30 seconds then pause 5. I sometimes go through 8 of these cycles before getting a sputter. Once sputtering I have to hold the starter on for a while (10-15 seconds) before the engine will continue on its own. The problem is temperature depended; the colder it is the longer it takes. On an 80 degree day it may start after 4 cycles. It spits out white smoke long before starting; black smoke for up to a minute after starting. Once going works fine. New rings just before I purchased the boat. New injectors just after. Valves were good when the heads removed to service the injectors. Turns over rapidly. Compression is good. This engine does not have glow plugs. There is a "cold start" button that does something to the injector pump. The button only stays down if the governor is left at slow idle. I've tried the 3/4 open and the idle/cold start button but I can't tell a difference in the length of cranking except that if the control is open once started it does not require holding the starter on like it does with idle/cold start.

Any thoughts?

Geoff

 

[Don12364]

If all is okay as you say then:-
Injection timing waay too late?? Could be a whole tooth out.

 

[Steve Dion]

There have been some posts about the problems with some of the older Volvo's. There was something about positioning of the throttle to enhance the starting.

Do some searching to see if you can find it, otherwise maybe some others with Volvos will chime in.

 

[Geoff K]

Re cold start poor

If injection timing is off shouldn't I see poor performance at power also? It runs fine up to max rpm and propels the boat at hull speed at about 80% max rpm in calm water.

I'll try some searching, but I think I've seen most of them. The general thrust is a diesel should start with only a few seconds of cranking in cold weather and if it doesn't there's something drastically wrong. But no one seems to know what is wrong. There has been talk about the Volvo MD series being difficult to start cold. Again, I've not seen solutions. I'll try looking again.

Geoff

 

[Bill1565]

FWIW my Westerbeke is hard starting when left more than a day. I believe, but can't prove yet that I have an air leak around the shutoff valve or the hose clamps near it. 'Course it's always 80 here, so I have no knowledge of cold starts.

 

[kloudie1]

I don't know that engine, but I am with Bill on the air leak somewhere between the HP injector pump and the tank. My Yanmar starts in about 1 engine rev, from cold, even after a month or so of not running. When the banjo washers were leaking air, it would behave just as you are discribing. Replaced washers and problem stopped. Some engines have a cold start solenoid that shifts the HP injection pump to a more rich position to aid cold start. If you don't hear the solenoid click when you push the button, ya may have a bad coil ? or bad wiring to the solenoid. ?? happy hunting, and good luck on this one, Geoff

 

[Mark Maulden]

I have a volvo md17c that is hard starting. Takes about 20 seconds total. Blue/black smoke during cranking and just had injectors rebuilt/new fuel filters etc. I did an experiment as this is a "new" boat to me with 2300 hrs on it. I have no starting battery and house batts are two new banks of 6V. Battery power goes from battery to battery switch at the main panel inside (1) or (2) and the common goes out to the boat/starter etc. About a 20' run with #4 wire and a somewhat flaky batt switch. I left the battery switch off and jumpered one of the 6V banks directly to starter (about 3') with number 2 wire. If you try this be very careful. Connect the starter before the battery. The cranking speed was greatly increased. I'm going to try this when it's cold. This boat is 32 yrs old so some wiring needs updating....I've also thought about an air leak as Bill suggests and might get some plumbers putty and icky pucky up all the fittings to see if that makes a difference..

 

[Mark Maulden]

update: Was lying in bed a few nights ago and I remembered that the engine kill cable is very hard to pull and it only pulled out very little before the engine died. I Disconnected the cable from plunger (on engine) and the plunger moved to the run position about 1/3 more travel than the cable allowed. Turned the key and fired right up!!! I believe the PO probably had a cable break so they connected what was left and has been running with shut-off partially shut off....New cable tomorrow and hopefully, I can repeat what happened today.

 

[Mark Maulden]

woo hooo!!!!

 

[zeehag]

hoooyaaahhh!!! is awesome when a good fix is found !!! my yannie startedup immediately after i got back from gulf --hadnt been tried in 1 1/2 yrs--is awesome!!!!

 

[Mark Maulden]

Have since installed a dedicated grp 27 starting battery with short 2/0 cables instead of 25' of #4 that the OEM had going from the house banks. What a difference!!!!!