I contacted the store about the proper size of my Genoa. I also was looking at a larger genoa. I found out the largest I could get would be 113% due to the genoa tracks for my sheet lines. I would like to suggest you check in with them and see what your current configuration supports so you don't have any unpleasant surprises.I am purchasing a UK furling code zero 135 Jib/genoa for my Hunter 460. Has anyone ever used such a sail on their boats? If so to what effect. I sail on the Long Island Sound out of Huntington Yacht Club the Tiger Lily.
I spoke to Hunter support at the Florida plant and they stated the boat could handle up to a 140 % jib with cars cabin mounted. If necessary I will bring the sheets around the mast stays and I am considering barber-hauling the sheets in addition to out board eye hooks mounted into the gunnel "built in" at the plant when I first purchased the boat originally. It's still going to be trial and error.I contacted the store about the proper size of my Genoa. I also was looking at a larger genoa. I found out the largest I could get would be 113% due to the genoa tracks for my sheet lines. I would like to suggest you check in with them and see what your current configuration supports so you don't have any unpleasant surprises.
Your approach is well thought out. I am currently reading "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" Kindle addition. It has many good recommendations and tips. Best of luck with your new code zero. Please let us know how it works out.I spoke to Hunter support at the Florida plant and they stated the boat could handle up to a 140 % jib with cars cabin mounted. If necessary I will bring the sheets around the mast stays and I am considering barber-hauling the sheets in addition to out board eye hooks mounted into the gunnel "built in" at the plant when I first purchased the boat originally. It's still going to be trial and error.
what are those gunnel eyes for? same on 41DSI spoke to Hunter support at the Florida plant and they stated the boat could handle up to a 140 % jib with cars cabin mounted. If necessary I will bring the sheets around the mast stays and I am considering barber-hauling the sheets in addition to out board eye hooks mounted into the gunnel "built in" at the plant when I first purchased the boat originally. It's still going to be trial and error.
Code 0 allows to sail up to about 40-45deg apparent wind, what you cannot do with a downwind sail from the link. It does very well downwind too. This type of sail is absolutely fantastic for any fractional rig. I strongly recommend continuous line roller.I am confused. Isn't a code zero sail a cruising assym? This is what I have. http://www.doylesails.com/cruising/downwind/ups/index.html
What code zero do you have? and what furler?Code 0 allows to sail up to about 40-45deg apparent wind, what you cannot do with a downwind sail from the link. It does very well downwind too. This type of sail is absolutely fantastic for any fractional rig. I strongly recommend continuous line roller.
Thank you for the information. I will keep this in mind when I order my spinnaker.A code zero is a specific style racing sail, free flying like a spinnaker but very flat cut for reaching. Doyle's UPS is a cruising version, much flatter than a typical assymetrical but larger than a genoa - and free flying. We have one and it's fantastic - easy to set and trim, good to about 40 degrees in light air and down to about 120 degrees - very useful. As Bosman said, really useful. We switch to an assym chute if we're going downwind for more power.
ALNims, when Doyle measured Escape we found the most we could get for a genny was 122%, and that's with a negative roach to clear the stays - but worth it
I couldn't agree with this endorsement more and am grateful to knowledgeable people like Bosman who helped me size and order a Code 0 for my 2008 Hunter 25. In combination with a continuous furler, the Code 0 is exceptionally efficient and painless to control for light air close-hauled and running downwind. The sails are priced reasonably but it’s those darn continuous furlers that are expensive so, being a cheap SOB (Sailor On Board), I made my own. The most essential and hard to make parts are the ball bearing swivels so these were purchased from MEC (Mountain Equipment Coop) for $50 each (one for the furler and one for the top swivel). They are used for mountain climbing and hoisting up loads without winding up the ropes and are made of aircraft aluminium with enclosed bearings for silky smooth running. The others parts purchased was a pulley and aluminum stock for the housing. Total cost was roughly $150 plus my time (priceless).Code 0 allows to sail up to about 40-45deg apparent wind, what you cannot do with a downwind sail from the link. It does very well downwind too. This type of sail is absolutely fantastic for any fractional rig. I strongly recommend continuous line roller.
Apparently the VMG for upwind sailing in light winds must be better with code 0 than a genoa despite the large AWAs.Code sails are like spinnakers; they are not attached to a stay. As such they are not jibs or genoas, even though the size may be similar to a genoa.
One thing to remember about Code sails. While the Apparent Wind Angle (AWA) while sailing looks very impressive, often getting into the upper 40s, The TRUE WIND never gets much in front of the beam, if at all. If your sailing direction is anywhere in front of the beam, a code will not get you there. Light air reaching. That's what is does. Now it looks and feels very impressive, the wind coming back at you across the deck like you are beating to windward. But you're not.
Beam reaching.
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