Code Zero Rigging recommendations

[JRT]

I have a new code zero coming end of Feb for my Cataline 310 and am looking at how I'll rig it. I already have an spin halyard, but nothing else since this boat has never been sailed with a spin of any kind. My sheets will run aft of the jib winches, the normal setup on other 310s is install standup blocks under the stern seats or snap shackles to the stern cleats. I'm going to go with attachment to the cleats this year since this is my first time with a spin type sail, I had fun with my old drifter on my O'Day 25 but this is a new experience. I remembered @Jackdaw talking about low friction rings for line control and am now considering that path instead of the turning blocks and snap shackles. So here is my plan, feedback is welcomed

Using SBO rigging calculator I'm looking at 125' continuous 10mm line with cow hitch knot centered on the clew. I need to double check this length with my sail designer as I want to be able to tack/jibe the sail forward since the Code 0 tack will be forward of my furled headsail. I liked the single line on my drifter on my O'Day 25 and do not like the separate lines on my jib right now as they like to hang up every now and then with the knots on the rigging.

This was the block and snap shackle I first considered, the series 25 2" sheave.

Garhauer Marine 51 mm Series 25 Stainless Stand-up Block - Becket

Garhauer Marine 51 mm Series 25 Stainless Stand-up Block - Becket

shop.sailboatowners.com

Then I thought these would be cool, specifically the 10MM ones from SBO as an alternative to blocks

Antal Marine Hardware Low Friction Rings

Antal Marine Hardware Low Friction Rings

shop.sailboatowners.com

For the tack of the sail I am planning to attached a snap shackle to the anchor bail this year, probably this one.

Ronstan Fork Swiveling Snap Shackles

Ronstan Fork Swiveling Snap Shackles

shop.sailboatowners.com

Thoughts and feedback? This is a bold new area for us and we will use this sail for the wonderful lite wind days on the lack to at least get moving in a direction. I might use it in a race, but will need a crew and practice to achieve that.

 

[PaulK]

Though they’re cheaper, low friction rings may not be up to the loads involved for Code 0 turning blocks. They’re also called “low friction”, not “no friction”. The additional friction might be enough to make easing the sheet in light air a problem, for example. Rings are usually used as fairleads, where the loads and amount of friction involved are less.

 

[JRT]

Thanks, the cost saving wasn't driving this idea. I'm planning to stick with very lite wind days and not push myself this year with this sail.

 

[AaronD]

Though they’re cheaper, low friction rings may not be up to the loads involved for Code 0 turning blocks. They’re also called “low friction”, not “no friction”. The additional friction might be enough to make easing the sheet in light air a problem, for example. Rings are usually used as fairleads, where the loads and amount of friction involved are less.

To be clear: Low-friction rings (LFRs) should be more than adequate for the loads. They test to thousands of pounds (e.g. Antal's medium-sized ring, with a safe working load of ~3500 lbs). But the friction on sheets through a ~180-degree turn will probably be a deal-breaker. LFR's are intended for use with uncovered Dyneema (Amsteel and competitors). Dyneema is really slippery, which (combined with the hard-anodized finish) yields the 'low friction' part of the ring's name. But for sheets you hand-hold and cleat, you don't want uncovered Dyneema, so the LFRs probably aren't your best choice.

I'm certainly not the most knowledgeable person on C0 rigging, but I can point you to my own choices (for a smaller boat, but maybe relevant). The sheet blocks on the cleats were cheap and easy, and they've worked remarkably well. And we've been really happy with Flight Line for the sheets.

 

[JRT]

So a bit of googling and it seems turning block substitutions with LFRs is one of the first things most say don't do it. Any feedback on the hardware from SBO I've linked? I'd like to do a complete order from them on one stop. I'm still questioning the line length too.

 

[Sailavie1]

Firstly, you will love the Code 0! It’s a great light-wind and single handed operation sail for downwind and even reaching but I'm sure you already know that from your research about its advantages.

I installed mine on a 2008 Hunter 25 to improve its downwind power and was pleasantly surprised of its upwind performance as well. Rigging was straight forward by securing the continuous fuller at the tack to a 24" bowsprit I built and the head to the existing mast line. Sheet lines led aft are attached to a block and cleat combo on a rear stanchion (I didn’t need a winch for my small boat). To improve upwind performance and tighten the leech, I added snatch blocks to stanchions near the front of the cockpit. Your idea to for the low friction rings will achieve the same or even better results.

After a few years with this rigging, I wanted to see if I could fly both the Code 0 and Jib in tandem for a little more performance. To achieve this, I needed to create a larger gap between the two sails by extending my bowsprit from 24" to 36" and installing a mast crane. This setup up works nicely and basically gave my Hunter a Cutter rig option.
Here are a few pics of my setup.

 

[jssailem]

I have seen low friction rings used on dinghys just not on bigger boats as a turning block.

I am working on rigging for a new Asymmetrical. I plan to use a block attached to the stern cleat using a soft shackle.


Likely I'll use single lines so that if I want to let the sail fly I just let it go and the sheet will pull through the block killing the sail so I can douse it on the bow.

 

[JRT]

Nice a cutter rigged Hunter 25! If this works out well I could be looking at a retractable bowsprit and a mast crane down the road. I didn't want to blow a ton this season so no fuller, using a turtle bag clipped on the bow that is suppose to be helpful.

 

[JRT]

@jssailem since our lake wind is squirrelly I really need to plan to be able to tack/jibe so I really want to have 2 lines. The soft shackle is an option too.