Cockpit drainage

Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

I am sure the correct thing is to reconnect the drain hoses. They are pretty
simple and need to be done asap. The drains go to the transom via two large
hoses and connect with jubilee clips. Also ensure the drains on the back of
the
cockpit locker lids are also connected (small 1/2 inch pipes) and that the
sealing rubber is working on the cockpit sole (floor).

Kind Regards

Steve Buirch Vega "Southern Comfort" V1703

At 20:51 27/07/02 +0000, you wrote:
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
My first boat project has presented itself. We have had a very dry
summer this year in the Chesapeake Bay region. But wouldn't you know
it, as soon as I acquire the Vega, it starts to rain daily. I had
pumped all the water out of the bilge and now it's full of water
again. The most notable source of the water is the cockpit drains.
The drain hoses are not connected to anything, and are dumping water
into the boat.

So I need to
(1) Manually pump out the bilge, after every rain, or
(2) Install battery and electric bilge pump, or
(3) Accelerate my plans to install boat cover, or
(4) Try to fix/reconnect hoses for cockpit drains.

I found some openings in the hull on the starboard side for seacocks
(?), but I am having trouble finding access to them on the inside.
Can anyone tell me where to look? I looked under the seat hatch, but
didn't see them. I looked behind the engine cover and didn't see
them. Are they in a cabinent or storage locker somewhere? Or
does "stuff" need to be dismantled to gain access?

Thanks,
Chris
V265 Vinfälle
Chesapeake Bay, USA
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Gianni and Steve,

Thanks for the advice. At first I was thinking like Gianni, that a
battery with electric pump would help keep the boat dry with the
least amount of effort. However, I went back and was browsing some
previous messages and saw the discussion on the bilge drain. I went
out to the boat yard, and was able to find it under the paint. A
little scraping with a screw driver and it came right out. It was a
real gusher! So the immediate problem of keeping the water from
accumulating is taken care of.

I also took a flashlight with me this time, to look around in more
detail. The first time I looked, I had seen the small hoses coming
off the front of the cockpit and had assumed they must go through the
hull somehow. Now I see that they should connect to the locker
drains. I had completely missed the big hoses off the back of the
cockpit sole. The drains were completly covered in mud/leaves.
After Steve's comment about the rubber seal, I think the water was
not draining through the rear because of being plugged, and was
leaking past the rubber seal (a few screws are missing from the
cover).

Thanks,
Chris
V265 Vinfalle
Chesapeake Bay, USA
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Ok, I vaccumed most of the dirt and leaves out of the cockpit today
(no water source at storage facility). The cockpit sole needs work.
It appears that someone put oversized screws down a few of the holes
to hold it in place, and then put some sealant on the seam on the
outside. I was able to lift most of the screws out with my fingers,
and then was able to easily lift the sole up. It is not even close
to being water tight or mechanically sound.

Looking for suggestions for a fix. Is there supposed to be a gasket
between the sole and the cockpit (and not just sealant on the
outside?) What parts/products have you guys used to seal this?

How are the screw holes normally made water tight? What is supposed
to be in the cockpit panel holes for the screws to thread into.

Having the whole sole lift out seems like it would be a nice feature,
but should it be permanently glued down, with a smaller, water tight,
access port installed?

Any suggestions appreciated.
Chris
V265 Vinfalle
Chesapeake Bay, USA
 
May 1, 2007
127
Dear Chris,

The cockpit sole must be watertight of course.
After using the original Albin watertight seal tape, I replaced it last
year , because the tape became brittle.

I still use the same stainless screws to close the cockpit sole. In your
case the holes were somewhat widened by the previous owner. That means
that you have to use larger stainless steel screws.

Good luck,

Henk Jansen
Vega V 1682 Le Cygne.
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
Henk,
Thanks for the information. What did you use as a replacement for
the seal tape? Do the screws just thread into the fiberglass? Or is
there some sort of grommet or other bridging material for the screw
threads to "bite" into?

Chris
 
Dec 18, 2001
31
Chris,

Herewith some comments on your particular problem.

On 'Alkira' I am perhaps lucky that the cockpit sole cover is reasonably flat over the sealing face and secondly has all the original fastenings with serviceable threads (M6 if my memory serves me correct).

Currently I use a self adhesive EPDM sponge rubber strip 12mm wide by 3mm thick. This material is resistant to aging and attack most things it is likely to come into contact with on the boat. Having said that however most other closed cell sponge rubbers will provide adequate service for a season.
As the sealing areas are reasonably flat and even I find this thickness provides an adequate seal. If you do happen to use a thicker sealing tape, on tightening the whole lot down you may find it will distort and over time 'creep' out of the joint.

Having never actually looked closely at the area concerned, I don't know what the fastenings screw into. I would suspect however that perhaps short stainless steel plates were bonded into the required areas of the moulding during manufacture and these were drilled and tapped out at final assembly to produce a solid attachment for the securing screws.
If in your case the threads are oversize / worn / stripped, personally I would look at trying to bond some stainless bar (say about 50 x 12 x 4mm thick) to the inner surface of the moulding at the positions required and then redrill / tap into this.
Alternatively, drill / tap the plate first and then use one of the securing screws to clamp everything together while the epoxy / glass sets.

Hope this is of some use.

Regards,
Frank Fowler, V1775 'Alkira of Mersea', Liverpool.
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Chris;

I installed 1/4 inch by 1 inch aluminum plates along both sides
(fastened with separate
screws) and cut a new thread for the fastening screws. Works fine.
You'll appreciate being able to lift out the sole when servicing the
motor or stuffing box.
Wilhelm V-257 VIKING

H. Jansen wrote:
 
Apr 30, 2000
197
Hello: The cockpit hatch bolts down to "Well nuts", rubber plugs with
threaded brass inserts that expand when the bolts are tightened. The
originals are metric and most of mine were missing when I got the boat, so I
went with a coarse thread US size. The Well nuts I purchased at my local
TruValue hardware store. They work fine, just don't press down on the bolt
when first tightening or you'll tear the rubber. Buy a few extras. I used
foam tape available for installing pickup canopies - again the hardware store
or Home Depot. No leaks. Lots of bolts to remove for access, but with a
power driver it goes quickly. Good luck, Bill Bach V1071
 
May 1, 2007
127
Dear Chris,

Its years ago, the cockpit drainage repair I mean.

I believe I went to the hardware store ( a very good one in our
'village' where the people are experts and have the patience to give you
personal advice. They gave me new stainless steel screws and plastic
gromets , which I sealed into the floor of the boat. Since then the boat
does not sink any longer (sic).

Happy sailing Chris,

Henk Jansen
Vega 1682