Cockpit diesel control panel

[AADIVER]

The engine control panel on my '83 30 is located on the port side, inches off the cockpit sole, opposite the wheel. I think it should be higher up on the combing, above the bench. Much more convenient to read the dials and work the ignition switch. But higher up it would be difficult to eyeball the wiring behind it. Now, I just lift the port lazerette cover and all wiring is in plain view. Question: should I leave it as it is, or pay about 500 bucks (4 hours @ 90 an hour) to relocate it?

 

[shipwreck66]

I was hoping someone would answer your question, I have the same setup on my '84 C27 and it is a bit awkward to see the panel while under power. I always have the feeling the cutoff switch will come off in my hand some day, no real durable but after 26 years still works.

 

[javelin]

Me too

I think all the earlier models have the controls there. Sometimes I work the throttle with my foot. Wish they were on the wheel steering or anyway at least higher. Haven't looked at the wiring. Is there enough wire to pull it up higher or is this a really major job ? Russ

 

[Windy City]

Moving Diesel Control Panel

The engine control panel on my '83 30 is located on the port side, inches off the cockpit sole, opposite the wheel. I think it should be higher up on the combing, above the bench. Much more convenient to read the dials and work the ignition switch. But higher up it would be difficult to eyeball the wiring behind it. Now, I just lift the port lazerette cover and all wiring is in plain view. Question: should I leave it as it is, or pay about 500 bucks (4 hours @ 90 an hour) to relocate it?

I moved mine myself a few months ago and it's one of the best upgrades I have done. I believe it was 8 wires 4 #10 and 4 #14 and it only took about three hours.

Turn off power
Cut the 8 wires 6 inches from the panel
Splice to ~ 5 feet of extension wires. (I found at least six different colors at Lowes and marked the 2 duplicates. (I bundled them using wire ties.)
Drill a 2 inch hole in the bulkhead separating the two areas
Cut the new hole to match the old one.
fish the wires through
Make up your splices
Install the panel using sealer
Put a ~7" x 11" aluminum panel over the old hole (use sealer)

 

[shipwreck66]

My throttle and shifter are on the wheel, so that makes things much more easier to handle. I have seen a couple people who have had the marine yard install a new panel with a T-handle cutoff and ignition. I can tell the old setup is hard on anyone with arthritis, my wife really struggles with it. I am going to have to remove the panel soon if for no other reason than to clean out 26 years of gunk built up in there. The gauges are so filled up I can barely read them and the fuel gauge has never worked, and that has become an irritant that needs fixing. I have looked at the wires and it looks like they will need to be lengthend around 12-18 inches, depending on what you need to go around.

 

[javelin]

Re: Moving Diesel Control Panel

How do you get the key into the ignition. Is that acetate hinged ?

 

[Team118]

My Catalina is a 1977 with the throttle and transmission controls on the pedestal. I moved the panel from the base back to stern.

I used the original engine panel pod and ordered a new faceplate from Front Panel Express. They have software that allows you to construct a new panel with openings, engraved writing, material and color, etc. The thing I screwed up on was making the engine gauge holes too small. The gauge diagrams called for 2 1/8", I should have made them a wee bit bigger. I used my Dremmel tool to widen them.

I then found a new open faced pod to fit in the old hole on ebay.

I had to buy a longer choke cable from Moyer. I also did away with the original 8 wire connection and used a terminal strip to wire from the panel to the terminal and then from the terminal to the engine. The terminal strip is attached to the back side of the drawer housing in the galley. The picture was before cleaning everything up (honest!)

It was a fairly easy and fairly difficult project. Spent a few days crouched in the port locker running wires.

You are correct though, it is very difficult to work on the new panel now. At Stu Jacksons suggestion I removed the amp meter and replaced with a volt meter and it involved pulling the enitre panel. Currently I believe the ignition is getting corroded or worse, because many times when I try to start the boat I have to 'jiggle' the key just right to start it.

Other than that, it's great. When sailing on a port tack (I think that's right, the rails on the stbd side are in the water...?) I put one of those blue boat seat cushions against the panel and I can lean against it with no problems!

The other newer combing is great for the winch handle and only cost $20 on ebay, all I had to do was widen the hole a bit, the width was perfect.

Good luck either way!
Chris

 

[Anonymous 121765]

AA,

The guys are giving you great ideas of which had worked for them.

I did two things alittle different with the fuel cutoff & the closeoff panel at the original control panel location.

I used a pvc material 1/4" thick white as close to my fiberglas color as I could find. It blends in better and hardly noticable.

I wasn't satisfied with any location for the fuel cutoff and decided to locate it inside the port side comming cutout on the aft side area up high enough but leaving enough room to easily grab hold and pull. I can operate this from behind the wheel by simply putting one foot up on the seat and leaning forward abit to operate. It's not visible from the cockpit and does not have the tendancy to catch on clothing etc.

CR

 

[Windy City]

Ignition Key

How do you get the key into the ignition. Is that acetate hinged ?

Yes, there is a hinged circle. The whole clear cover is also removable.

 

[tomfoolery]

I removed the entire ingnition switch from the cockpit panel and closed/covered the 1" hole and mounted the switch below. I have to go below to open the thru hull, and turn on the battery switch anyway and now the switch is dry and protected. I haven't replaced the switch for 10 years.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

AA,

For my panel/weatherproofing I matched-cut out a clear lexan panel and made a gasket to seal it on the control panel frame with screws . I marked the locations for the ignition & starter button on the lexan. I found two closeoff plug type caps and hole sawed for a tight fit. I left a 1/4" space along the bottom of the lexan to the bottom of the control panel frame for venting any moisture. I also have a snap on (weblon material or use sunbrella) cover to keep out sun. It's a neat clean look. I feel you should have the key at the panel. It's an easy project.

CR

 

[foolproof]

I removed my old panel, and bought a new one with gages and plan on installing it like Chris did. My new panel comes with its' own terminal strip, but I still have to figure out and buy all of the senders, tach sensor, etc. for it to work (11 hp Yanmar if anyone knows where to get these parts).

I filled the empty hole where the panel was by installing a glove box that I bought from West Marine. It was an easy install and will give me a handy place to stow keys and such when we are out.