Cloudy Windows

abaragones · Mar 13, 2011

Salty, I just replaced all windows on my 322 (though not the aft ones, the angled ones, reason why I am interested in finding a way to "polish" them) Mine where cracked and leaking so decided to changed them.

It is pretty straightforward and simple, took me in total 3 days, but the actual work was probably 3 or 4 hours. In summary, you have to remove the old ones, used the old windows to drill the holes in the new ones, then stage the new ones to paint the interior perimeter, then install them (I used Dow Corning 795). I can give you more details if you want, just let me know.

I got them from D&R, Rudy sends you instruction with the windows. Instructions are very clear and easy to follow. Price for the windows was similar to a local plexiglass store.

Good Luck!

Joe11688 · Mar 13, 2011

I haven't heard of anyone curing that problem without replacing the lens. One of my friends bought a 1986 O'Day 272 with that same issue. I had talked to a girl from Columbus OH who had that problem with a 1987 O'Day 222. She replaced the two lens and used a special type of tape adhesive caulking made by 3-M I think, to secure them,--without screws.
I think that you're probably going to need to replace them.
There are three things you need to keep in mind if you do replace them. The important one is to use Dow Corning 795 Caulking which is kind to plastics. Do not use Acetone on these lens. The other thing is to make sure that the holes for the screws are a shade wider than the screws so that temperature changes won't cause cracks. I'm not sure if these lens come pre-drilled. I know that the rudders and centerboards from D & R Marine aren't pre-drilled. So you're better off gauging the screw holes from your old lens with a drill bit of the proper size and using that drill bit to drill the new holes in the lens to go with the same size screws that were in the old lens. The DC 795 comes in different colors to choose from.

bria46 · Mar 13, 2011

I replaced all six windows on my O'Day 272, the cockpit window and the overhead cabin window. In 1986 O'day used some sort of foam tape around the perimeter of all of my windows. That tape lost its bond over time. Then they also added a goodly amount of Dow 795. I continued to use machine screws around the windows. Dry fit your new window. In preperation for 795, use blue masking tape on the outside edge of the area that your new windows will be eventually rest. Use more 795 than you think you need. let it ooze out all around your new windows. Once cured (24-48 hours) take an exacto knife and cut into the 795 along the edge of the window. Then remove the masking tape carefully pulling the cured 795 off with the tape. Clean up the excess 795 with paint thinner - NOT ACETONE!!!

1. Use rubber gloves
2. Use acrylic NOT LEXAN - Acrylic will last twice as long as Lexan
3. Specify 1/4" material. Acrylic comes in many different colors. I selected medium smoke.
4. Find a local fab shop in your area that also sells Acrylic. they have proper tools to work acrylic. Have the fabricator also polish the edges.
5. Need additional tips? just ask me. I've had great success.

bria46 · Mar 13, 2011

The holes should be slightly oversize. Do not let your selected fab shop drill holes. They will charge you too much. Rudy from D&R does NOT supply his windows with holes.
DO NOT remove protective paper until the windows are completely installed.
1. use your removed windows as templates. (I used my wife's cake frosting knife, sliding it up and down between the fiberglass and the old window) Boy was she pissed!!
2. Have your fab guy "grow" your template - old window by 1/8" all around
3. Carefully "C" clamp your old window on top of your new window exposing the 1/8" extra all around.
4. Use a hand drill and drill the exact size new drill bit to drill your new holes. GO very slowly as if you go to fast you will crack or chip your new window panel!
5. Enlarge holes with another new drill bit. Check the fitment of the old screws in the new enlarged holes. The screws should be sloppy in the holes for expansion and contraction of your new window.
Sorry for not remembering these important points!

Shoaldrafter · Mar 14, 2011

Plexiglass windows old home remedy

Salty said:
When I bought my 322 a couple years ago, 3 of the windows were very cloudy and the thought was I can live with it at that time, but now its time to fix it. I know this is a problem with some the Oday's because I've seen a few like this. Is there a way other than replacing the windows to fix this? Are these windows easy to replace? I think D&R has replacement windows but I just wanted to see if thats my only option.

Thanks

Salty,

Before replacing windows, try using Pledge, yes the furniture polish. Both inside and outside. Known to occassionally work on plexiglass but has to be occassionally repeated especially outside.

If it doesn't work, you can still polish interior brightwork.

Ed K
O'Day 26 [for sale]

Joe11688 · Mar 14, 2011

I think that he covered it better than I did, but there is one more thing I can mention that won't get you in trouble with using your wifes kitchen implements. I've removed my plastic forward hatch a few times over the years to replace the lens or make needed repairs to the latches and the best tool I've used is a heated putty knife to loosen the caulking and free the hatch without breaking it. Luthiers have been using this process for years in removing guitar necks and it works just as well on boats whether it be plastic deck plates, hatches, or the fiberglass wedges that hold the keel/centerboard pin up into the keel slot.

bria46 · Mar 14, 2011

Thanks for the tip I will try your suggestion of using a heated putty knife.

48dodge · Mar 14, 2011

I don't know how mine will hold up, but I used PlastX and a RO polisher and polished the heck out of mine while they were off the boat. There is some crazing in the plastic so they will need to be replaced before too long, but they came out looking good. I had them stored in the garage for about 2 years until about 2 weeks ago when I put them back on the boat. If I were to do it over again, I would probably wetsand with like 2000 grit before using the RO polisher.

Before

After

Again, I don't know the longevity of what I've done when it gets full sun and salt air. It may cloud up instantly.

Joe11688 · Mar 14, 2011

Salty said:
Thanks everyone for the loads of info on the windows. I have a few more questions. How deep are the screw holes, because there are no screws visible from the outside? Are these self tapping screws and if so how would it work if I drill the holes bigger? Is it possible to drill the holes without drilling right through the glass? It make me nervious to have to drill into the glass. I'll have to take a look at the screws from inside when I get pack to the boat.

Thanks again

Salty

If there are no screws visible from the outside, then the 332 must have a different set up than the 272, 222, and the 192 for securing the port lights. You're going to have to do some investigating to find out how those lens were installed. If there's no screws going through the plastic lens, maybe they're are held in place by some other method which might turn out to be a plus for you.
I read about that stuff called PlastX and in fact, I had suggested PlastX to the girl with the O'Day 222 a couple of years ago, but then she went out and had two new port lights made and used the 3-M tape to secure them in place. I would give it a try. It's cheaper than buying new port lights.
It's possible that the lens can be buffed out as 48 Dodge just pointed out.

Joe11688 · Mar 14, 2011

They look better than the ones on my boat which aren't cloudy, but just scratched up in places.

abaragones · Mar 14, 2011

Trinkka said:
If there are no screws visible from the outside, then the 332 must have a different set up than the 272, 222, and the 192 for securing the port lights. You're going to have to do some investigating to find out how those lens were installed. If there's no screws going through the plastic lens, maybe they're are held in place by some other method which might turn out to be a plus for you.
I read about that stuff called PlastX and in fact, I had suggested PlastX to the girl with the O'Day 222 a couple of years ago, but then she went out and had two new port lights made and used the 3-M tape to secure them in place. I would give it a try. It's cheaper than buying new port lights.
It's possible that the lens can be buffed out as 48 Dodge just pointed out.

Salty, make sure the screws are not covered by the old sealant, in my case they were, though I could see some of them. BTW screws are there just to hold the plexiglas while the sealant dries, you are not even supposed to tight them to much.

abaragones · Mar 14, 2011

Salty said:
I just spoke with Rudy from D & R and he said some windows (like mine) do not need screws, only the Dow Corning 795 is used to hold it. My only problem now is to find or build some sort of fixture to hold the windows in while they cure.

Great, looks better without the screws and you don't have to drill the plexiglass.
I have seen people using 2x2 with a space in one extreme for the lifeline and a cloth in the other so it doesn't scratch the window. The 2x2 is set in place pushed by the lifeline. I haven't done this so I can't attest for it...

Joe11688 · Mar 14, 2011

Salty said:
I just spoke with Rudy from D & R and he said some windows (like mine) do not need screws, only the Dow Corning 795 is used to hold it. My only problem now is to find or build some sort of fixture to hold the windows in while they cure.

I'm sure that you can Mickey Mouse something that can hold the port lights in until they cure.

pr22 · May 23, 2011

Hi everyone. You may want to try Mr.Clean magic erasers and some elbo grease. Worked like a charm on mine a few seasons back.

Cloudy Windows

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