I just bought a 1990 Hunter 30. Great boat, but one thing I would like to improve is its pointing ability. I think the one limitation is the rather large distance of the genoa tracks from the centerline. Has anyone tried barber hauling the genoa sheets to get a closer sheeting angle? One other issue might be the 135% jib that came with the boat. It looks okay, but on every boat I've raced on we could never point as well with the 130 as we could with the 155 or the 110. Thanks!
Close hauled on a Hunter 30
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Close Hauled
I have a 1990 30G, at it took some time to learn to sail the boat. Check the archives for my articles on sail trim. The boat was designed for a 110, not a Genoa. I had a 135 on the boat when I bought it, and an unused 110. Always had too much weather helm until I put the 110 on. The main is large, and provides most of the power. A full batten main, or 3 1 (3 full upper battens, 1 lower partial) is best. Now I can often release the helm on a close reach and it will hold a track on its own. To make up for the Genny in light air, we recently bought an assemetric. That seems to be the best inventory for this boat. Sail it as flat as you can. She sails best at 20 degrees of heel, though we tolerate 30 in gusts. Most people will tell you to reef early, I can go up to 18-20 knots before reefing by using a lot of vang (also added a Garhauer rigid vang--what a difference!), dropping the traveler down, and cranking on the outhaul. In 15 to 20 knots we can consistently point inside 45 degrees with the jib sheeted to the shrouds and the mainsail flat and dropped below center, depending on gusts. E-mail me through the owner's directory if you want to talk about it further. Fair Winds DRS
I have a 1990 30G, at it took some time to learn to sail the boat. Check the archives for my articles on sail trim. The boat was designed for a 110, not a Genoa. I had a 135 on the boat when I bought it, and an unused 110. Always had too much weather helm until I put the 110 on. The main is large, and provides most of the power. A full batten main, or 3 1 (3 full upper battens, 1 lower partial) is best. Now I can often release the helm on a close reach and it will hold a track on its own. To make up for the Genny in light air, we recently bought an assemetric. That seems to be the best inventory for this boat. Sail it as flat as you can. She sails best at 20 degrees of heel, though we tolerate 30 in gusts. Most people will tell you to reef early, I can go up to 18-20 knots before reefing by using a lot of vang (also added a Garhauer rigid vang--what a difference!), dropping the traveler down, and cranking on the outhaul. In 15 to 20 knots we can consistently point inside 45 degrees with the jib sheeted to the shrouds and the mainsail flat and dropped below center, depending on gusts. E-mail me through the owner's directory if you want to talk about it further. Fair Winds DRS
Pointing
We have an asym, and just the 135 jib. I haven't had a problem with too much weather helm (yet). When things get rough we reef the main which helps reduce the helm. But what about simply pointing? I had an '85 C&C 33 centerboarder that was able to point much higher than my Hunter 30. A 110 might help in stronger winds because it can be sheeted inside the shrouds, but I'll still need a barberhauler to pull it into a 10-11 deg sheeting angle. The barberhauler might help on the 135 too, but I'd have to sail with a looser sheet.
We have an asym, and just the 135 jib. I haven't had a problem with too much weather helm (yet). When things get rough we reef the main which helps reduce the helm. But what about simply pointing? I had an '85 C&C 33 centerboarder that was able to point much higher than my Hunter 30. A 110 might help in stronger winds because it can be sheeted inside the shrouds, but I'll still need a barberhauler to pull it into a 10-11 deg sheeting angle. The barberhauler might help on the 135 too, but I'd have to sail with a looser sheet.
Pointing a 30T
I've got the same problem. With the 135 jib sheeted in to the spreader tips, I can just make 100 degrees tack to tack in 10kts of wind. (I can pinch higher in heavier winds but it's not efficient and speed drops off.) I have the lead blocks almost back to the end of the big cabin windows? I had them about a foot forward but it didn't seem to make much difference? Fiddling with the main doesn't seem to help much either? In heavier air, I just slough off the extra wind to keep her at 15 degrees+/-. I ease the traveller first then the main. It seems the outboard jib sheets are the main problem. I think I'll try the old 110 and see if that's any better? I noticed on the newer Hunter boats that the jibes sheet inboard of the shrouds. That certainly helps. If anybody has any solutions I'm all ears BZ
I've got the same problem. With the 135 jib sheeted in to the spreader tips, I can just make 100 degrees tack to tack in 10kts of wind. (I can pinch higher in heavier winds but it's not efficient and speed drops off.) I have the lead blocks almost back to the end of the big cabin windows? I had them about a foot forward but it didn't seem to make much difference? Fiddling with the main doesn't seem to help much either? In heavier air, I just slough off the extra wind to keep her at 15 degrees+/-. I ease the traveller first then the main. It seems the outboard jib sheets are the main problem. I think I'll try the old 110 and see if that's any better? I noticed on the newer Hunter boats that the jibes sheet inboard of the shrouds. That certainly helps. If anybody has any solutions I'm all ears BZ
Wow, way to go Alan!
Neat idea! Got pictures? How did you mount the tracks without going through the head liner of the main cabin? I kinda wondered if a smaller jub could be sheeted in better. Looks like you found the magic. Bruce
Neat idea! Got pictures? How did you mount the tracks without going through the head liner of the main cabin? I kinda wondered if a smaller jub could be sheeted in better. Looks like you found the magic. Bruce
Bruce
You will need to put wholes in the liner but you can cover them with plastic pop in plugs. Using seperate tracks is not my invention. It's the right way to sheet a #3. You can experiment with the location by using a barber-haul and marking the location that works best.
You will need to put wholes in the liner but you can cover them with plastic pop in plugs. Using seperate tracks is not my invention. It's the right way to sheet a #3. You can experiment with the location by using a barber-haul and marking the location that works best.
Inboard tracks
Alan, I'd like to see pictures also. I thought about doing this, but I was worried about having the tracks too close to the skylights. Do you sheet to the cabin top halyard winches or the primary winches?
Alan, I'd like to see pictures also. I thought about doing this, but I was worried about having the tracks too close to the skylights. Do you sheet to the cabin top halyard winches or the primary winches?
PAC
My boat is a 35.5. The #3 tracks run right along side the skylights with no problem. I suppose you could use the cabin top winches if they are not needed for something else, but I run the sheets through the #3 blocks then to the #1 blocks and back to the primaries. That way if I need to switch to a #1, the sheets can be used without having to be rerun.
My boat is a 35.5. The #3 tracks run right along side the skylights with no problem. I suppose you could use the cabin top winches if they are not needed for something else, but I run the sheets through the #3 blocks then to the #1 blocks and back to the primaries. That way if I need to switch to a #1, the sheets can be used without having to be rerun.
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