I have a cleat for tying off the bow of my hunter 27 that is located between the furler and the chain locker. Will this work to secure the tack/downhaul of a spinnaker? I also still have the old jib halyard that runs down the front of my mast. Can I use that halyard, the cleat, and my furler winches in the cockpit to run a spinnaker????
Cleat for securing spinnaker tack/downhaul?
- Thread starter Bigjer40
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This is an asymmetrical spinnaker, yes?
If yes, then ......
Yes, it will 'work'; and, yes you can use that halyard, etc.
However, the tack of an asymmetrical spinn should be able to be allowed to 'rise' .... and in accordance with the wind and wave conditions at the time and the degree of the course from DDW.
Normally, on a beam (or higher) reach the tack is positioned close to the bow, further downwind the tack is allowed 'higher' .
... how high or how low? so the the 'middle' of the luff is where the spinnaker 'breaks' or begins to 'curl' (stalls or 'luffs' when too close to the wind). Keeping the tack pinned near the deck will make the A-spinn 'very' cranky the deeper one is sailing below a beam reach.
Typically the tack is controlled by a tack-line thats connectoed the spinn's tack and then to a block somewhere near the bow (tied to that bow cleat could be a good place) and then led back to the cockpit and to a winch ... or back to at least a strong 'hexaratchet' + cleat/clutch, etc. When the spinn is 'really pulling', you sometimes need a winch to adjust the tackline.
This is just tackline basics ..... consider to consult one of the sailmaker websites on how to properly set-up and fly an Asymmetrical.
Hope this helps. Enjoy.
;-)
Ok Rich, I obviously need to look into this a lot more. There seems to be way more than I realized. I mainly want to use for sailing up river on the Columbia River when most of the time the wind is blowing to the east (against current). It would be used for a reach only to slowly make way up the river. However, after reading your post, I will bring a professional rigger down to look at my boat and set me up.
Thanks!
The aspin works best when it is forward of the jib and fore stay. If your jib halyard is above the fore stay, then it will work well.
Take a look at the modifications I made to my boat to get the aspin flying well:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=8071&page=article&mn=260
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=8057&page=article&mn=260
Take a look at the modifications I made to my boat to get the aspin flying well:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=8071&page=article&mn=260
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=8057&page=article&mn=260
Correct. The aspin is a light wind sail. Any wind that would need a winch to trim in the sheet has a potential to blow out the sail.
RichH has a 37' boat. Bigger sails and larger hardware. He may need the winch to trim.
RichH has a 37' boat. Bigger sails and larger hardware. He may need the winch to trim.
NO NO you dont need a rigger to do this. Just an easy means to adjust the tack / tackline.
go to those sailmaker websites for flying an A-Spinn. Think of the tack line as 'just another sheet'.
Here you go with a simplified set up for an A-kite: http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle2.php tack line is explained.
;-)
;-)
You don't NEED new, dedicated winches for the spinnaker, the primaries or cabin top halyard winches will work fine. (secondary winches are nice to have, though)
I find a winch quite useful when trimming the spinnaker.... Though, I rarely grind (use the handle). the main advantage of hand trimming with the winch is the extra power and precision you gain from putting a few wraps on the drum.
Another great advantage of the winch: using it to redirect the leeward spinnaker sheet across the cockpit to the windward winch, allowing the trimmer to see the luff of the sail .... a fairly common technique.
As Rich H states... an adjustable tackline is a huge advantage.... here's a good explanation and visual. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm
On my boat, a 27 footer, it is difficult to adust the tackline without a winch.... so it runs to an open cleat near a halyard winch.
I find a winch quite useful when trimming the spinnaker.... Though, I rarely grind (use the handle). the main advantage of hand trimming with the winch is the extra power and precision you gain from putting a few wraps on the drum.
Another great advantage of the winch: using it to redirect the leeward spinnaker sheet across the cockpit to the windward winch, allowing the trimmer to see the luff of the sail .... a fairly common technique.
As Rich H states... an adjustable tackline is a huge advantage.... here's a good explanation and visual. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm
On my boat, a 27 footer, it is difficult to adust the tackline without a winch.... so it runs to an open cleat near a halyard winch.
Dang! Simple bowsprit! Even *I* might be able to do that project. Thanks for sharing!
Place a shackle on the tang then a snatch block or regular block. The tack line on an asymmetric can have quite a load on it. You can then bring it aft to to cockpit and use a winch to adjust. There are very good videos on you tube on how to gybe the asymmetric. Look up the outside gybe method.Bigjer40 said:
'Out and around gybing' is usually the least hassle but it does require sheets almost twice the length of the boat. Even with out and around gybing, I find it best to keep the tack line 'inside' of the pulpit and of course 'in front of' the furler. This will make it easier for the 'lazy' sheet to simply lay accoss the pulpit when not in use. When the tack line is 'in front of' the pulpit, its easier for the 'lazy sheet' to fall down and be/get 'under the bow/boat'.
Johnny Raincloud pipping in
The mast end of a sail that is "flown" (aka does not attach to the forestay but is supported by three lines only) will see the halyard coming in from a veriety of angles none of which is along the forestay. A normal halyard block is not designed to handle loads from the side and either the halyard will jump the block or the halyard will chafe.
The solution is pretty simple. Hoist a block using the halyard and run a secondary halyard through the block. The block will act like a swivel and allow the secondary halyard to twist off to either side and keep the primary halyard going straight into the mast head block.
As much as the tack line moves and given the light loading you have I'd consider using loops of spare line tied to the toe rail and running the tack line through that back to the cockpit and a cleat there. Then you don't have to go forward to adjust.
FWIW
The mast end of a sail that is "flown" (aka does not attach to the forestay but is supported by three lines only) will see the halyard coming in from a veriety of angles none of which is along the forestay. A normal halyard block is not designed to handle loads from the side and either the halyard will jump the block or the halyard will chafe.
The solution is pretty simple. Hoist a block using the halyard and run a secondary halyard through the block. The block will act like a swivel and allow the secondary halyard to twist off to either side and keep the primary halyard going straight into the mast head block.
As much as the tack line moves and given the light loading you have I'd consider using loops of spare line tied to the toe rail and running the tack line through that back to the cockpit and a cleat there. Then you don't have to go forward to adjust.
FWIW
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