We bought an o'day 32 foot center cockpit that had been winterized and had it brought down to florida. Since it was unused we are afraid that the water tank may have some "undesirable creatures" in it. We had heard of a process of using vineger and bleach, but don't know the proportions of each. Can anyone tell us what to use to clean out the water tank before adding the new water?
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If you check the archives you will find the
following: Recommission the system by Peggie Hall Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people and even some boat manufacturers believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those critters. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that is really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
following: Recommission the system by Peggie Hall Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people and even some boat manufacturers believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those critters. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that is really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Use 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution) for each 50 gal. tank capacity. Fill tank. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but *no longer than 24 hours*. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This should be done annually as part of spring recommissioning. It will also remove the taste/smell of antifreeze.
Metal water tanks?
Can this also be done with metal water tanks? I've heard never to add bleach to metal tanks. I could be wrong though.
Can this also be done with metal water tanks? I've heard never to add bleach to metal tanks. I could be wrong though.
Ann
What you heard is generally correct - over time, the chlorine can and will attack aluminum promoting internal corrosion of the tank and also produce an AlCl precipitate in the water, neither of which is a good thing. Having said that, if you add breach to a full tank and flush it through the lines shortly afterward, it will minimize the problem(s) and still produce the disinfection effect. The concentration cited by someone else is WAY too concentrated though - don't know where he got that figure from but 5 oz in 50 gal is more than enough. Even better, if you can find hydrogen peroxide in a 26% solution, that will be safer for the tank and for you and will have a much prolonged effect of disinfection without the odor and taste of chlorine. The store-bought peroxide is too weak and is useless regardless of how much you use. Don
What you heard is generally correct - over time, the chlorine can and will attack aluminum promoting internal corrosion of the tank and also produce an AlCl precipitate in the water, neither of which is a good thing. Having said that, if you add breach to a full tank and flush it through the lines shortly afterward, it will minimize the problem(s) and still produce the disinfection effect. The concentration cited by someone else is WAY too concentrated though - don't know where he got that figure from but 5 oz in 50 gal is more than enough. Even better, if you can find hydrogen peroxide in a 26% solution, that will be safer for the tank and for you and will have a much prolonged effect of disinfection without the odor and taste of chlorine. The store-bought peroxide is too weak and is useless regardless of how much you use. Don
When my water tanks get completely
out of control I treat them like a scummy swimming pool. Large amounts of bleach allowed to circulate for a time and pumped through the system, followed by several rinses. Water is cheap. Rinse alot, smell the water after the second rinse, taste it after the third rinse. The chlorine will burn out the black scum on the tank walls, if you have access holes in the tanks then scrubbing while they are wet but empty helps before I add the bleach. If you are concerned about harming aluminum, mix you bleach/water solution and drop some aluminum foil into it for the time that you will allow it in the tanks and pipes. observe the effect on the foil and proceed from there. Edited to add: try a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to remove the old water after you have pumped out all that you are able.
out of control I treat them like a scummy swimming pool. Large amounts of bleach allowed to circulate for a time and pumped through the system, followed by several rinses. Water is cheap. Rinse alot, smell the water after the second rinse, taste it after the third rinse. The chlorine will burn out the black scum on the tank walls, if you have access holes in the tanks then scrubbing while they are wet but empty helps before I add the bleach. If you are concerned about harming aluminum, mix you bleach/water solution and drop some aluminum foil into it for the time that you will allow it in the tanks and pipes. observe the effect on the foil and proceed from there. Edited to add: try a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to remove the old water after you have pumped out all that you are able.
Hi Ann, for the small amount that you're ...
using and for such a short period of time it will not harm metal tanks. Check to see whether you have a screen type filter between your tank and sink fittings. Also many sink fittings have screens in the faucet. These will need cleaning as well. Terry
using and for such a short period of time it will not harm metal tanks. Check to see whether you have a screen type filter between your tank and sink fittings. Also many sink fittings have screens in the faucet. These will need cleaning as well. Terry
Biofilms ????
Riverdweller --- If you have an access port so that you can inspect the tank internals: FIRST open the tank and with your finger check the walls for "SLIME". Any 'slippery' feeling you get when touching the bottom of the tank walls is bacterial slime. If yes, then that slime is a biofilm (calcyx) that should be removed by mechanical scrubbing - simple soap and water scrub with a long handled bristle brush. Suck out all the 'crap' that falls to the bottom of the tank when you scrub with a wet/dry vacuum. Then follow the general directions for chlorine disinfection. If you dont mechanically remove the biofilm then there is only a very poor possibility that chlorine sanitization will work as chlorine doesnt penetrate deeply into a biofilm and will leave viable bacteria under the surface of the biofilm. Alternatively you can sanitize MANY times with chlorine until repetetive soaking with chlorine finally kill through all the layers of the biofilm .... many many repetetive soaks with sanitizing chemicals. That biofilm is a MASSIVE bacteria colony and has to be removed (mechanically) before sanitization. All those 'santization recipies' you read are for already mechanically CLEAN tanks, not for tanks that are bio-fouled. If you have any indication of a developed biofilm present - you need to employ mechanical scrubbing BEFORE sanitization otherwise you are just wasting your time and probably wont accomplish ANY sanitization. If the tank is stainless steel then allow to soak with the diluted chlorine mixture for not more than 1 hour. If the tank is aluminum use chlorine only very briefly to soak as chlorine will attack the aluminum .... mechanical scrubbing and LARGE amounts of Hydrogen Peroxide are the only 'suitable' means to finish sanitizing an aluminum tank. BTW - aluminum potable water tanks should/can be lined with food grade epoxy coatings .... an easy DIY project if you are handy with epoxies and 'metal cutting'.
Riverdweller --- If you have an access port so that you can inspect the tank internals: FIRST open the tank and with your finger check the walls for "SLIME". Any 'slippery' feeling you get when touching the bottom of the tank walls is bacterial slime. If yes, then that slime is a biofilm (calcyx) that should be removed by mechanical scrubbing - simple soap and water scrub with a long handled bristle brush. Suck out all the 'crap' that falls to the bottom of the tank when you scrub with a wet/dry vacuum. Then follow the general directions for chlorine disinfection. If you dont mechanically remove the biofilm then there is only a very poor possibility that chlorine sanitization will work as chlorine doesnt penetrate deeply into a biofilm and will leave viable bacteria under the surface of the biofilm. Alternatively you can sanitize MANY times with chlorine until repetetive soaking with chlorine finally kill through all the layers of the biofilm .... many many repetetive soaks with sanitizing chemicals. That biofilm is a MASSIVE bacteria colony and has to be removed (mechanically) before sanitization. All those 'santization recipies' you read are for already mechanically CLEAN tanks, not for tanks that are bio-fouled. If you have any indication of a developed biofilm present - you need to employ mechanical scrubbing BEFORE sanitization otherwise you are just wasting your time and probably wont accomplish ANY sanitization. If the tank is stainless steel then allow to soak with the diluted chlorine mixture for not more than 1 hour. If the tank is aluminum use chlorine only very briefly to soak as chlorine will attack the aluminum .... mechanical scrubbing and LARGE amounts of Hydrogen Peroxide are the only 'suitable' means to finish sanitizing an aluminum tank. BTW - aluminum potable water tanks should/can be lined with food grade epoxy coatings .... an easy DIY project if you are handy with epoxies and 'metal cutting'.
Wow Rich......
......You really know your stuff. I posted this question a while back without any suggestions. When I tried to drain my hot water heater the petcock only let out a trickle. It's a six gallon tank. I then took the in and out lines off and hooked up the pump to the dink to the out port and proceeded to blow the liquid out of the tank. All was fine until I got down to the last 2-3 pints and it came out the color of coffee with cream. This last bit of liquid also contained chunks of clear jelly like slime. Any thoughts on how to deal with this? Obviously I cant cut an inspection port to "mechanically" remove my bio-party. Is my tank shot? Thanks in advance, Tim
......You really know your stuff. I posted this question a while back without any suggestions. When I tried to drain my hot water heater the petcock only let out a trickle. It's a six gallon tank. I then took the in and out lines off and hooked up the pump to the dink to the out port and proceeded to blow the liquid out of the tank. All was fine until I got down to the last 2-3 pints and it came out the color of coffee with cream. This last bit of liquid also contained chunks of clear jelly like slime. Any thoughts on how to deal with this? Obviously I cant cut an inspection port to "mechanically" remove my bio-party. Is my tank shot? Thanks in advance, Tim
We keep our tank clean but
don't drink out of it. We pack bottled water. The water in the tank is used for showers and to wash dishes. I was reading the response about the biofilm but concluded that if it is so resistant to vinager and chlorine plain water will not disturb it. Clean water runs on slimey riverbeds. In years long past I would drink the water out of the tank and make coffe with it and never seemed to get sick, but could not say the same for city water.
don't drink out of it. We pack bottled water. The water in the tank is used for showers and to wash dishes. I was reading the response about the biofilm but concluded that if it is so resistant to vinager and chlorine plain water will not disturb it. Clean water runs on slimey riverbeds. In years long past I would drink the water out of the tank and make coffe with it and never seemed to get sick, but could not say the same for city water.
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