Anyone clean their fuel tank out? After pumping the old fuel out of my H34 tank because of its age, I tried to mop the sludge out with paper towels. It is so hard to get "into" the fuel tank of a H34 (even though I have added an inspection port on top) that I dumped a mixture of grease-cutting bilge cleanser and hot water into the tank. Now, I know that some will not go for putting water in the tank, but I am sure that I can pump that out, rinse, re-rinse and dry before adding fuel again. Just wondering if anyone had tried this. Bruce
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New Tank Recommended
Why go to all the trouble.Its also risky that you dislodge some goop that you can't get out and end up with it being sucked into the engine. New tanks are cheap enough in the small size a sailboat requires. I replaced a 13 gallon tank on my old boat with a new plastic one for $175.00 including all the fittings . .my labor of course. fred miller s/v m-squared
Why go to all the trouble.Its also risky that you dislodge some goop that you can't get out and end up with it being sucked into the engine. New tanks are cheap enough in the small size a sailboat requires. I replaced a 13 gallon tank on my old boat with a new plastic one for $175.00 including all the fittings . .my labor of course. fred miller s/v m-squared
What to do with Waste?
Just curious, how would you collect and dispose of the waste? That includes the orignial fuel that was in the bottom that wasn't burned off, the sludge that you manage to get out by hand, and the rinsate from the grease-cutting/hot water solution? The fuel and sludge one could put in plastic containers and take to the Hazardous Waste facility, if your county or city has one for the public, but the rinsate might amount to quite a bit. Would the waste disposal be free? The buy-a-new-tank option doesn't seem that unreasonable considering the effort required and one could even opt for a larger tank. The old tank would still have to be disposed of. Suggest upgrading the fuel lines at the same time to Coast Guard approved lines. The old lines may have some sludge in them also. The older Yanmars had a fuel-return line. One cause of a runaway engine is a constricted, clogged, or kinked fuel return line. The CC approved lines are more stout than the OEM lines and would have less likelyhood of kinking.
Just curious, how would you collect and dispose of the waste? That includes the orignial fuel that was in the bottom that wasn't burned off, the sludge that you manage to get out by hand, and the rinsate from the grease-cutting/hot water solution? The fuel and sludge one could put in plastic containers and take to the Hazardous Waste facility, if your county or city has one for the public, but the rinsate might amount to quite a bit. Would the waste disposal be free? The buy-a-new-tank option doesn't seem that unreasonable considering the effort required and one could even opt for a larger tank. The old tank would still have to be disposed of. Suggest upgrading the fuel lines at the same time to Coast Guard approved lines. The old lines may have some sludge in them also. The older Yanmars had a fuel-return line. One cause of a runaway engine is a constricted, clogged, or kinked fuel return line. The CC approved lines are more stout than the OEM lines and would have less likelyhood of kinking.
Quick Clean
Yes. Here's how I did it. Disconnect both fuel lines that connect to the engine. Leave the tank fuel feed valve open. Use a wet vac with hoses reduced down to a 5/8 inch garden hose inserted through the fuel fill port to the low point in the tank to remove water/sludge. Remove the fuel level indicator from the top of the tank then using a garden hose spray nozzle, the sludge is blasted easily from the tank bottom, mixed with the water which is removed by the wet vac. End with a thorough water rinse of the tank. The tank was air dried by leaving the wet vac connected to the tank and operating with air being drawn through. If you don't have a fuel level indicator port then you may alternate using a water wand (1/8" d copper line)inserted through the fuel fill port to break up the sludge from the bottom followed by inserting the wet vac hose to remove the sludge/water solution.
Yes. Here's how I did it. Disconnect both fuel lines that connect to the engine. Leave the tank fuel feed valve open. Use a wet vac with hoses reduced down to a 5/8 inch garden hose inserted through the fuel fill port to the low point in the tank to remove water/sludge. Remove the fuel level indicator from the top of the tank then using a garden hose spray nozzle, the sludge is blasted easily from the tank bottom, mixed with the water which is removed by the wet vac. End with a thorough water rinse of the tank. The tank was air dried by leaving the wet vac connected to the tank and operating with air being drawn through. If you don't have a fuel level indicator port then you may alternate using a water wand (1/8" d copper line)inserted through the fuel fill port to break up the sludge from the bottom followed by inserting the wet vac hose to remove the sludge/water solution.
Quick Clean
Yes. Here's how I did it. Disconnect both fuel lines that connect to the engine. Leave the tank fuel feed valve open. Use a wet vac with hoses reduced down to a 5/8 inch garden hose inserted through the fuel fill port to the low point in the tank to remove water/sludge. Remove the fuel level indicator from the top of the tank then using a garden hose spray nozzle, the sludge is blasted easily from the tank bottom, mixed with the water which is removed by the wet vac. End with a thorough water rinse of the tank. The tank was air dried by leaving the wet vac connected to the tank and operating with air being drawn through. If you don't have a fuel level indicator port then you may alternate using a water wand (1/8" d copper line)inserted through the fuel fill port to break up the sludge from the bottom followed by inserting the wet vac hose to remove the sludge/water solution.
Yes. Here's how I did it. Disconnect both fuel lines that connect to the engine. Leave the tank fuel feed valve open. Use a wet vac with hoses reduced down to a 5/8 inch garden hose inserted through the fuel fill port to the low point in the tank to remove water/sludge. Remove the fuel level indicator from the top of the tank then using a garden hose spray nozzle, the sludge is blasted easily from the tank bottom, mixed with the water which is removed by the wet vac. End with a thorough water rinse of the tank. The tank was air dried by leaving the wet vac connected to the tank and operating with air being drawn through. If you don't have a fuel level indicator port then you may alternate using a water wand (1/8" d copper line)inserted through the fuel fill port to break up the sludge from the bottom followed by inserting the wet vac hose to remove the sludge/water solution.
What I Did
Replacing the tank on the 34 is not a practical solution. It is plastic, has an unusual shape, and the only way to get a new tank into that area would be to take out the panel between the quarter berth and the locker area. Contrary to popular recommendations, I let the tank run low towards the end of the sailing season. I then hook up an electic fuel pump and pump the remaining fuel through the filter and into five gallon diesel cans. Once this is done I treat each of those with biocide and store them until spring. Doing this leaves barely a cup full of fuel in the tank. The last couple of years I have then used my shop vac and a small copper pipe grafted to the inlet side to clean out the little clumps of dirt/algae. There were quite a few the first time and virtually none last winter. In the spring I change the Racor and put the fuel back in the tank via a funnel with a filter. With that done, I bleed the system and generally I don't have to touch the system until fall. I do plan one modification for this winter. I am going to permanently mount the electric fuel pump between the tank and the fuel filter and control it with a momentary on power switch. I have two reasons for this. First, if you need to bleed the system while in rough conditions, it would be nice to only have to worry about loosening the bleeder at the injection pump and with a few seconds of the electric pump, completely bleeding the system from the tank to there. Secondly, with my winterizing method, it can take 10 or 15 minutes to bleed the system using the handle on the lift pump. Being lazy, this is not acceptable. As an aside, general purpose 12 volt automotive fuel pumps cost around $40 and are made to handle fuel. They are available at any auto parts store.
Replacing the tank on the 34 is not a practical solution. It is plastic, has an unusual shape, and the only way to get a new tank into that area would be to take out the panel between the quarter berth and the locker area. Contrary to popular recommendations, I let the tank run low towards the end of the sailing season. I then hook up an electic fuel pump and pump the remaining fuel through the filter and into five gallon diesel cans. Once this is done I treat each of those with biocide and store them until spring. Doing this leaves barely a cup full of fuel in the tank. The last couple of years I have then used my shop vac and a small copper pipe grafted to the inlet side to clean out the little clumps of dirt/algae. There were quite a few the first time and virtually none last winter. In the spring I change the Racor and put the fuel back in the tank via a funnel with a filter. With that done, I bleed the system and generally I don't have to touch the system until fall. I do plan one modification for this winter. I am going to permanently mount the electric fuel pump between the tank and the fuel filter and control it with a momentary on power switch. I have two reasons for this. First, if you need to bleed the system while in rough conditions, it would be nice to only have to worry about loosening the bleeder at the injection pump and with a few seconds of the electric pump, completely bleeding the system from the tank to there. Secondly, with my winterizing method, it can take 10 or 15 minutes to bleed the system using the handle on the lift pump. Being lazy, this is not acceptable. As an aside, general purpose 12 volt automotive fuel pumps cost around $40 and are made to handle fuel. They are available at any auto parts store.
What I Did
Replacing the tank on the 34 is not a practical solution. It is plastic, has an unusual shape, and the only way to get a new tank into that area would be to take out the panel between the quarter berth and the locker area. Contrary to popular recommendations, I let the tank run low towards the end of the sailing season. I then hook up an electic fuel pump and pump the remaining fuel through the filter and into five gallon diesel cans. Once this is done I treat each of those with biocide and store them until spring. Doing this leaves barely a cup full of fuel in the tank. The last couple of years I have then used my shop vac and a small copper pipe grafted to the inlet side to clean out the little clumps of dirt/algae. There were quite a few the first time and virtually none last winter. In the spring I change the Racor and put the fuel back in the tank via a funnel with a filter. With that done, I bleed the system and generally I don't have to touch the system until fall. I do plan one modification for this winter. I am going to permanently mount the electric fuel pump between the tank and the fuel filter and control it with a momentary on power switch. I have two reasons for this. First, if you need to bleed the system while in rough conditions, it would be nice to only have to worry about loosening the bleeder at the injection pump and with a few seconds of the electric pump, completely bleeding the system from the tank to there. Secondly, with my winterizing method, it can take 10 or 15 minutes to bleed the system using the handle on the lift pump. Being lazy, this is not acceptable. As an aside, general purpose 12 volt automotive fuel pumps cost around $40 and are made to handle fuel. They are available at any auto parts store.
Replacing the tank on the 34 is not a practical solution. It is plastic, has an unusual shape, and the only way to get a new tank into that area would be to take out the panel between the quarter berth and the locker area. Contrary to popular recommendations, I let the tank run low towards the end of the sailing season. I then hook up an electic fuel pump and pump the remaining fuel through the filter and into five gallon diesel cans. Once this is done I treat each of those with biocide and store them until spring. Doing this leaves barely a cup full of fuel in the tank. The last couple of years I have then used my shop vac and a small copper pipe grafted to the inlet side to clean out the little clumps of dirt/algae. There were quite a few the first time and virtually none last winter. In the spring I change the Racor and put the fuel back in the tank via a funnel with a filter. With that done, I bleed the system and generally I don't have to touch the system until fall. I do plan one modification for this winter. I am going to permanently mount the electric fuel pump between the tank and the fuel filter and control it with a momentary on power switch. I have two reasons for this. First, if you need to bleed the system while in rough conditions, it would be nice to only have to worry about loosening the bleeder at the injection pump and with a few seconds of the electric pump, completely bleeding the system from the tank to there. Secondly, with my winterizing method, it can take 10 or 15 minutes to bleed the system using the handle on the lift pump. Being lazy, this is not acceptable. As an aside, general purpose 12 volt automotive fuel pumps cost around $40 and are made to handle fuel. They are available at any auto parts store.
Hire it out
In Long Beach, CA there are several companies that will come to your boat at the dock and "polish" your fuel. This includes pumping out all fuel in the tank, cleaning and sucking out all deposits in the tank, cleaning the fuel, and replacing the cleaned fuel if you want. My mechanic suggested draining the feul lines (both supply and return on diesel) and I had the injectors serviced as well. The cost of the fuel "polishing" was around $80 for a 35 gallon tank.
In Long Beach, CA there are several companies that will come to your boat at the dock and "polish" your fuel. This includes pumping out all fuel in the tank, cleaning and sucking out all deposits in the tank, cleaning the fuel, and replacing the cleaned fuel if you want. My mechanic suggested draining the feul lines (both supply and return on diesel) and I had the injectors serviced as well. The cost of the fuel "polishing" was around $80 for a 35 gallon tank.
Hire it out
In Long Beach, CA there are several companies that will come to your boat at the dock and "polish" your fuel. This includes pumping out all fuel in the tank, cleaning and sucking out all deposits in the tank, cleaning the fuel, and replacing the cleaned fuel if you want. My mechanic suggested draining the feul lines (both supply and return on diesel) and I had the injectors serviced as well. The cost of the fuel "polishing" was around $80 for a 35 gallon tank.
In Long Beach, CA there are several companies that will come to your boat at the dock and "polish" your fuel. This includes pumping out all fuel in the tank, cleaning and sucking out all deposits in the tank, cleaning the fuel, and replacing the cleaned fuel if you want. My mechanic suggested draining the feul lines (both supply and return on diesel) and I had the injectors serviced as well. The cost of the fuel "polishing" was around $80 for a 35 gallon tank.
It was easy
My Hunter 30 had a lot of sludge and mold in the bottom after I bought it two years ago. It was so bad, the engine would quit every time I ran it after sailing & heeling more than about 15 degrees. They wanted $300 to clean my tank. Sooo.... I cut a four inch whole in the top of it with a hole saw. I located the hole so I could reach to all of the corners of the tank. I bought a small pump that attaches to a drill and clear hose (that came with it). I pumped all of the fuel into large plastic gas cans, and gave it to my parents who have oil heat. I used engine pads to soak up what was left in the bottom of the tank. I wiped it clean until a white cloth would stay white. Changed the fuel filter, installed a deck plate. I had to replace the deck plate after a couple of months because I used the wrong kind of calk, and it cracked. That was two years ago. Never had a problem since. Cost of the job was about six hours, $30 in parts, and 20 gallons of fresh diesel. It might be harder to do on a larger boat, but you also might have easier access.
My Hunter 30 had a lot of sludge and mold in the bottom after I bought it two years ago. It was so bad, the engine would quit every time I ran it after sailing & heeling more than about 15 degrees. They wanted $300 to clean my tank. Sooo.... I cut a four inch whole in the top of it with a hole saw. I located the hole so I could reach to all of the corners of the tank. I bought a small pump that attaches to a drill and clear hose (that came with it). I pumped all of the fuel into large plastic gas cans, and gave it to my parents who have oil heat. I used engine pads to soak up what was left in the bottom of the tank. I wiped it clean until a white cloth would stay white. Changed the fuel filter, installed a deck plate. I had to replace the deck plate after a couple of months because I used the wrong kind of calk, and it cracked. That was two years ago. Never had a problem since. Cost of the job was about six hours, $30 in parts, and 20 gallons of fresh diesel. It might be harder to do on a larger boat, but you also might have easier access.
It was easy
My Hunter 30 had a lot of sludge and mold in the bottom after I bought it two years ago. It was so bad, the engine would quit every time I ran it after sailing & heeling more than about 15 degrees. They wanted $300 to clean my tank. Sooo.... I cut a four inch whole in the top of it with a hole saw. I located the hole so I could reach to all of the corners of the tank. I bought a small pump that attaches to a drill and clear hose (that came with it). I pumped all of the fuel into large plastic gas cans, and gave it to my parents who have oil heat. I used engine pads to soak up what was left in the bottom of the tank. I wiped it clean until a white cloth would stay white. Changed the fuel filter, installed a deck plate. I had to replace the deck plate after a couple of months because I used the wrong kind of calk, and it cracked. That was two years ago. Never had a problem since. Cost of the job was about six hours, $30 in parts, and 20 gallons of fresh diesel. It might be harder to do on a larger boat, but you also might have easier access.
My Hunter 30 had a lot of sludge and mold in the bottom after I bought it two years ago. It was so bad, the engine would quit every time I ran it after sailing & heeling more than about 15 degrees. They wanted $300 to clean my tank. Sooo.... I cut a four inch whole in the top of it with a hole saw. I located the hole so I could reach to all of the corners of the tank. I bought a small pump that attaches to a drill and clear hose (that came with it). I pumped all of the fuel into large plastic gas cans, and gave it to my parents who have oil heat. I used engine pads to soak up what was left in the bottom of the tank. I wiped it clean until a white cloth would stay white. Changed the fuel filter, installed a deck plate. I had to replace the deck plate after a couple of months because I used the wrong kind of calk, and it cracked. That was two years ago. Never had a problem since. Cost of the job was about six hours, $30 in parts, and 20 gallons of fresh diesel. It might be harder to do on a larger boat, but you also might have easier access.
What Brand/type of Deck Plate
Dean, What type/brand of deck plate did you end up with? I know it is hard to get a good seal on a plastic tank due to its flexing. Thanks
Dean, What type/brand of deck plate did you end up with? I know it is hard to get a good seal on a plastic tank due to its flexing. Thanks
What Brand/type of Deck Plate
Dean, What type/brand of deck plate did you end up with? I know it is hard to get a good seal on a plastic tank due to its flexing. Thanks
Dean, What type/brand of deck plate did you end up with? I know it is hard to get a good seal on a plastic tank due to its flexing. Thanks
Beckson Screw-In Deck plate
I just used a standard Beckson 4" deckplate from West Marine, because it is all I could find---I looked for something heavier. The insert cracked around the edges, which I thought was from the tank flexing, until I recalled that I had used something with polysulfide in it as a sealer. So I installed a second last spring, and used silicone instead---which isn't as strong, but the screws provide enough strength. The silicone has provide a good seal, and their are no cracks.
I just used a standard Beckson 4" deckplate from West Marine, because it is all I could find---I looked for something heavier. The insert cracked around the edges, which I thought was from the tank flexing, until I recalled that I had used something with polysulfide in it as a sealer. So I installed a second last spring, and used silicone instead---which isn't as strong, but the screws provide enough strength. The silicone has provide a good seal, and their are no cracks.
Beckson Screw-In Deck plate
I just used a standard Beckson 4" deckplate from West Marine, because it is all I could find---I looked for something heavier. The insert cracked around the edges, which I thought was from the tank flexing, until I recalled that I had used something with polysulfide in it as a sealer. So I installed a second last spring, and used silicone instead---which isn't as strong, but the screws provide enough strength. The silicone has provide a good seal, and their are no cracks.
I just used a standard Beckson 4" deckplate from West Marine, because it is all I could find---I looked for something heavier. The insert cracked around the edges, which I thought was from the tank flexing, until I recalled that I had used something with polysulfide in it as a sealer. So I installed a second last spring, and used silicone instead---which isn't as strong, but the screws provide enough strength. The silicone has provide a good seal, and their are no cracks.
Inspection Port
Hi, Dean, I've been planning to add an ispection port too, the same type that you used. I have an aluminum tank, too thin to use self-taping machine screws, and think I'll have to use sheet metal screws, but I'm concerned about whether they will hold sufficiently well, and would like to use the strongest sealant/caulk that will work. Do you think that the polysulfide sealant reacts with the plastic of the port? How about the o-ring on the screw-in cover... does this hold up when exposed to diesel fuel? Thanks. George
Hi, Dean, I've been planning to add an ispection port too, the same type that you used. I have an aluminum tank, too thin to use self-taping machine screws, and think I'll have to use sheet metal screws, but I'm concerned about whether they will hold sufficiently well, and would like to use the strongest sealant/caulk that will work. Do you think that the polysulfide sealant reacts with the plastic of the port? How about the o-ring on the screw-in cover... does this hold up when exposed to diesel fuel? Thanks. George
Inspection Port
Hi, Dean, I've been planning to add an ispection port too, the same type that you used. I have an aluminum tank, too thin to use self-taping machine screws, and think I'll have to use sheet metal screws, but I'm concerned about whether they will hold sufficiently well, and would like to use the strongest sealant/caulk that will work. Do you think that the polysulfide sealant reacts with the plastic of the port? How about the o-ring on the screw-in cover... does this hold up when exposed to diesel fuel? Thanks. George
Hi, Dean, I've been planning to add an ispection port too, the same type that you used. I have an aluminum tank, too thin to use self-taping machine screws, and think I'll have to use sheet metal screws, but I'm concerned about whether they will hold sufficiently well, and would like to use the strongest sealant/caulk that will work. Do you think that the polysulfide sealant reacts with the plastic of the port? How about the o-ring on the screw-in cover... does this hold up when exposed to diesel fuel? Thanks. George
Another Way
From a post a couple of yrs ago someone did this: They cut a hole maybe 5 inch in the top of the plastic tank. They then made a cover out of metal and drilled a series of holes around the edge to attach to tank. They then drilled another hole in the center of the metal inspection port and installed a manual fuel guage by tempo. this way he could inspect and clean the tank and keep an eye on the level. craig
From a post a couple of yrs ago someone did this: They cut a hole maybe 5 inch in the top of the plastic tank. They then made a cover out of metal and drilled a series of holes around the edge to attach to tank. They then drilled another hole in the center of the metal inspection port and installed a manual fuel guage by tempo. this way he could inspect and clean the tank and keep an eye on the level. craig
Another Way
From a post a couple of yrs ago someone did this: They cut a hole maybe 5 inch in the top of the plastic tank. They then made a cover out of metal and drilled a series of holes around the edge to attach to tank. They then drilled another hole in the center of the metal inspection port and installed a manual fuel guage by tempo. this way he could inspect and clean the tank and keep an eye on the level. craig
From a post a couple of yrs ago someone did this: They cut a hole maybe 5 inch in the top of the plastic tank. They then made a cover out of metal and drilled a series of holes around the edge to attach to tank. They then drilled another hole in the center of the metal inspection port and installed a manual fuel guage by tempo. this way he could inspect and clean the tank and keep an eye on the level. craig
my tank aint flat on top
I took out my three batteries today and covered the boat for winter. it was cold. anyway while down in the hole i took a look at my tank. its plastic and the top is bowed inward. dont know if i could find a flat stop on there or does it suck up when the screws are inserted? thanks. craig
I took out my three batteries today and covered the boat for winter. it was cold. anyway while down in the hole i took a look at my tank. its plastic and the top is bowed inward. dont know if i could find a flat stop on there or does it suck up when the screws are inserted? thanks. craig
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