Cleaning teak with clorox?

[HillbillyWanderer]

Bought hr a catalina 22 last year that had been neglected for some time. Have several projects in near future. One at hand is cleaning the teak and dealing it with varnish. Have been reading threads on this topic and have decided on using straight clorox for the job of cleaning. For those with experience doing this, did you use a teak brighter afterwards or just seal it afterward? Also on side note anybody ever use the outdoor varnish for a marine environment you buy at lowes? Not sure why it won't work. I live in kentucky, the bead is trailered and covered when not being used. Little exposer to sun. Thoughts?

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

Yea should have proof read that. Sorry.

 

[xcyz]

I always use Captain's Varnish. The Sun's rays are harsh on varnish and it requires multiple coats. I end up re-varnishing every 2 years. It's not cheap stuff and not a fun chore.

I don't know if Lowes or HomeDepot stocks a varnish for exteriors or if it's suitable for marine environments but I don't mind spending a bit more money on a marine varnish so I'm not spending my boat time sanding and varnishing every 9 months.

 

[Warren Milberg]

If your teak does not have some other finish on it that must be removed first, you can, indeed, "clean" teak with Chlorox. But I have found that it will really raise the grain creating grooves in the wood. This will then require an inordinate amount of sanding to produce a smooth, clean surface. You will also be removing a lot of wood in the process. And while the required 3 coats of Cetol don't look as good as the required 7 coats of varnish, it goes on easier, lasts longer, and allows for a lot more time to do what you really like to do: go sailing.

 

[onecoolair]

Back in my J-24 Days I found Thompsons Water Sealer "clear" the easiest to use. First time prep was a stiff brush and soap. The only sanding I ever had to do was when I had to splice in a new section to make a repair from a Starboard Port disagreement. Sat out in the weather 24/7. Once a year give her a good scub down then two coats Maybe?. Spaced out over a few weekends. So the whole weekend was not lost. Just a few hours on a Sunday after a Saturday sail and sometimes a Sunday morning sail too.Varied what ever I felt like at the time. Just good therapy.
I always hated that fake look painted stain crap that some people do. With that fancy dancy expensive stuff!

 

[jimoc]

Bleach cut 50/50 with water, + a little liquid soap, works best. IMHO,
cheers!

 

[kloudie1]

Just a caution about bleach.. It can cause severe cracking to stainless, especially in places where there is high stress.. such as the ends of a crimped standing rigging fitting.. or a slightly leaky chainplate where the bleach can get in and can't get out of the area.. Be very careful to rinse VERY thoroughly if you use it where it can get onto stainless fittings..

 

[RichH]

The large sport fishing fleets on the New Jersey coast usually use nothing but Clorox (sometimes 'industrial strength' Clorox) and 'scrubby pads' to clean their teak, the 'scrubby pads' used to continually 'hog down' the ever 'proud' grain. Teak decks and trim on these boats usually only last several years and then require total replacement when the teak becomes overly thin and begins to split and crack.

If you are going to use clorox and intend to keep your teak 'bare', at least use Thompson's water seal or a mix of waterseal and Semco and Teak Wonder 1:1:1 ... or Scotchguard (or its replacement such as ApSeal 303 Fabric water repellent) !!!!!

The easiest is to sand down flat, bleach with oxalic acid, and apply Cetol, or other 'modern' coating.

 

[Ross]

I have always read that salt water was the best teak cleaner.

 

[vmaks]

I "experimented" on a small section of my teak sanding lightly first, than very carefully applied deck cleaner/brightener. I read the directions and it worked miracles on my deck and the claims were safe for plants and safe for water. It actually worked but I don't know if that is the direction I am going since it definitely bleached out the wood. I am more inclined to giving my teak a light coat of stain and cover over with Cetol when done. The color of the stain needd to match what the previous owner had and I have been playing games all summer trying to match.

 

[jimoc]

In addition to cleaning/lightening the teak, bleach will kill the ever-present mold and mildew spores in the wood.

 

[Randy6414]

I use bleach to clean and brighten bare teak that has already been sanded, but I mix 50/50 with water. This works well, allows the bleach to flow better, and makes it go further. Rinse thoroughly when done.

Wetting the bare teak does raise the grain, so I check and sand again if need be.

Once thoroughly dry I use three coats of Cetol. Some complain about it but I prefer it over varnish. I've varnished in the past and find the upkeep to be a burden (and this comes from a guy that actually enjoys working on his boat). With Cetol, once the wood is sanded, bleached, then finished with three coats, all that's required is an annual maintenance coat.

Many people have climbed aboard my boat and offered an unsolicited "Wow, your teak looks great!" It's been eight years since I first did my teak with Cetol, with annual maintenance coats in between, so I'm pleased.

Randy

 

[Ducati]

Salt water works best.

Here is what you do:
1) Wet the teak with salt water mixture
2) Let stand for 15 minutes then give a light scrub against the grain with 3M pad
3) Rinse teak with salt water
4) Let stand for 15 minutes
5 Rinse with fresh water

Do that every other week and your teak will be beautiful

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

A caution. DON"T use a stiff brush to scrub teak. It will erode the softer grain and leave the harder grain as ridges. Use a scrubbie pad instead.

 

[zeehag]

green 3m pad and salt water is all teak needs. just did my caprail and some of my taff--and oiled it -all before the rain comes--i have 3 hours to dry before rain--is perfect. all it needs.

 

[RAD]

I use Simple Green and a green 3m scrubbing pad

 

[CalebD]

Oxalyic Acid = "Barkeeper's Friend" - about $5 for a can in the hardware store.
Some #220 grit sand paper.
Fresh water.

Moisten the wood and sprinkle on Barkeeper's Friend. Let sit for 20 minutes. Wash off with water. When dry, lightly sand down ridges.

Clean up dust and put on whatever finish/oil/varnish you like.

No need to use harsh bleach on teak, unless of course you are planning on eating off of it and like replacing it more frequently.

Your boat, your money, your choices.

 

[Mark Maulden]

a bucket of seawater
1/2 cup bleach
1/2 cup of baking soda
couple drops of dishwashing soap
amounts not critical
scrub with med bronze wool
good rinse
a sanding appropriately

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

Thanks to all for the in formation, several different methods to choose from think I will pick a few brag suited for me and try them, go with the one works best for me. All ready used straight clorox on hatch boards, seemed to work well but as stated by some could be to harsh on my teak. Really liked a some other methods will try some those on rails and cockpit.

 

[sandpiper10471]

El Salvadoran recipe - I am digging into my memory banks but I do believe the locals used baking powder and hydrogen peroxide on a buddy's deck. Came out as well as the commercial two part stuff at a fraction of the cost.