Cleaning / CLearing Freshwater Lines 1983 H31

[pateco]

I have a 1983 Hunter 31, and the Jabsco freshwater pump was not functioning. It made noise, but did not pump water. I tried to prime using a shopvac at the kitchen faucet. I was able to pull water from the tank through the plumbing, but as soon as I shut off the vacuum, the water flow stoped, and the pump was still just making pumping noises. So, I replaced with a brand new Shurflow pump bought at local yardsale for $5

I now have running water, however this system must have been out of service for a long time. Lots of mold/slime, came out of the faucet, and I still get almost zero flow out of the sink in the head, and very little to zero flow anywhere out of the Hot Water side of they system. How would you suggest cleaning the plastic waterlines of any standing mold/slime without damaging them?

I have thought about using pressurized air to blow them out, but don't know how much pressure I can safely use.

Are there any chemicals I could safely run through the system that would clean the lines?

 

[RichH]

Take a good look at all the clear 'plastic' water lines. Any that have turned 'dark' over time can indicate that fungals, etc. have penetrated into the plastic; or, that the 'plastic' has seriously oxidized and/or hydrolyzed and are now seriously breaking down ('particles' and polymer fragments and monomers) ... indicating that they should be replaced. Try to find water hose thats 'rated' for potable water if you can.

Otherwise, if there is no or not much 'gunk' in the lines, use the same clorox/water ratio that you'd use to sanitize your water tank - about 4oz. of plain Clorox (5%) for every 10 gallons of water, and let soak for at least 1-2 hours. Since its nigh-on impossible to inspect and clean such hose (other than to replace if 'dark'), I would suggest a 'few' repetitive shock-sanitizations followed by a 'good' high velocity 'rinse'. Yoiu may want to consider to 'high velocity' flush between repetitive shock sanitizations - with your dock hose 'bib'—to—hosebarb connected to the disconnected outlet of your water pump.

 

[pateco]

Take a good look at all the clear 'plastic' water lines. Any that have turned 'dark' over time can indicate that fungals, etc. have penetrated into the plastic; or, that the 'plastic' has seriously oxidized and/or hydrolyzed and are now seriously breaking down ('particles' and polymer fragments and monomers) ... indicating that they should be replaced. Try to find water hose thats 'rated' for potable water if you can.

Otherwise, if there is no or not much 'gunk' in the lines, use the same clorox/water ratio that you'd use to sanitize your water tank - about 4oz. of plain Clorox (5%) for every 10 gallons of water, and let soak for at least 1-2 hours. Since its nigh-on impossible to inspect and clean such hose (other than to replace if 'dark'), I would suggest a 'few' repetitive shock-sanitizations followed by a 'good' high velocity 'rinse'. Yoiu may want to consider to 'high velocity' flush between repetitive shock sanitizations - with your dock hose 'bib'—to—hosebarb connected to the disconnected outlet of your water pump.

Is there any chance of the Clorox, or the high velocity flush damaging the Hot water heater?

 

[Mike Culik]

Remove the faucet diffusors and try again. My 31 has gray pex type water lines so you can't see crap in them. Clorox and water flushes will get your sytem cleaned out. You may also need to clear your water filter several times to clear also.

 

[pateco]

Thanks for the help. I Got it working with water flow through both cold and hot water lines. The screens in the bottom of each faucet valve were clogged with what looked like little white caulk/silicone particles. I think this may be due to there not being a water filter anywhere in the lines that I can find. What style filter would you install, and at what point in the system?

 

[kloudie1]

Lots of that white stuff comes from water deposits in the lines. That happens when the system is shut down for fairly long periods with no circulation. I think you'll find that the more you use the boat and that water system, the less accumulation you'll find.. but from here it will probably get a little worse as you begin to use it more, before it gets better.. just will need cleaning one or two more times ..

 

[Mike Culik]

Glad to hear you now have water flowing. My filter is next to the water tank outlet. It is literally a pain to get to. If I were to redo it, I would mount it on the bulkhead wall, next to the pump on the input side.

 

[RichH]

Thanks for the help. I Got it working with water flow through both cold and hot water lines. The screens in the bottom of each faucet valve were clogged with what looked like little white caulk/silicone particles. I think this may be due to there not being a water filter anywhere in the lines that I can find. What style filter would you install, and at what point in the system?

Good probability is that your hoses are well oxidized/hydrolyzed and are now 'particulating'. This happens especially to nylon and similar polymers when long term wetted with water.

 

[Steve Dion]

It would not be that difficult to replace all of the water lines on the H'31. You can still purchase PEX or some of the new products. Then the only thing you would need to address is the tank itself.

 

[IH82BL8]

My filter is next to the water tank outlet.

There's a filter?!

Also, can someone verify that this is PEX? The same stuff Lowe's/Home Depot sells? I need to reconfigure part of my system and might replace all of the lines.

+1 on the aerator/strainer. When I decommissioned my water system after a year of non-use, I watched while debris in the lines clogged the strainer and completely shut off flow in 20-30 seconds.