I posted this question under Bleach??...but here goes again. This pertains to chemical reaction of Bleach?, Hydrogen peroxid? or chlorine as related to breakdown of aluminum and cleaning. What then would be good to disinfect aluminum water tanks???...I have 2 on board and everyone has been saying just add a little bleach and rinse.......and related to winterizing.....we are adding Propylene Glycol antifreeze in these aluminum tanks...how does this effect the longevity of these tanks and How does bleach or Hydrogen Peroxid react with antifreeze?? Thanks Rob
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No chemist, so. . . .
I prefer to take the safe route. I shock the system with a little bleach in the spring commissioning. I do this after I flush the system of any winter anti-freeze. Then I rinse with ten or more gallons before refilling the two 50 gallon tanks. I do not worry about the fact that the inside of the tanks are covered with calcium scum. But a filter between the tank and the pump is a must. I figure if I scrape that out the tank seams will separate. And opening up the tanks to manually clean is really the only way. I will just wait for the first leak and then replace both tanks with poly tanks from Ronco. All old aluminum tanks eventually will leak. That project is detailed already in the Photo Forum.
I prefer to take the safe route. I shock the system with a little bleach in the spring commissioning. I do this after I flush the system of any winter anti-freeze. Then I rinse with ten or more gallons before refilling the two 50 gallon tanks. I do not worry about the fact that the inside of the tanks are covered with calcium scum. But a filter between the tank and the pump is a must. I figure if I scrape that out the tank seams will separate. And opening up the tanks to manually clean is really the only way. I will just wait for the first leak and then replace both tanks with poly tanks from Ronco. All old aluminum tanks eventually will leak. That project is detailed already in the Photo Forum.
Recommissioning fresh water system
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative...what happens when increased amounts of chlorine or bleach are allowed to remain in the tank. But because the chlorine solution is completely flushed out after only a few hours, the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years...and especially from adding a little bleach to each fill. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.
Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative...what happens when increased amounts of chlorine or bleach are allowed to remain in the tank. But because the chlorine solution is completely flushed out after only a few hours, the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years...and especially from adding a little bleach to each fill. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.
There has to be a better way
Check the archives - I have said all of this before. Watch for small particles floating in your water after using bleach. That is the sure sign of the tank being eaten away. I am sure the tank manufacturers love it!
Check the archives - I have said all of this before. Watch for small particles floating in your water after using bleach. That is the sure sign of the tank being eaten away. I am sure the tank manufacturers love it!
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