I had some (read lots) of water in my boat over the winter when my drain plugged and froze. The water brought all kinds of oily sludge up from the bilge (full keel boat) and it infiltrated through the top of my fresh water tank.I put a hose in it thinking the oil would rise to the top and overflow out and back down to the bilge, which worked somewhat however I have a slimy oily film on the inside of the tank. There is limited access to the tank through one 6" access plate, and it does not look like it would be easy to remove. I'm thinking I have two choices - don't use it or try one of those flexible tanks and stuff it in the existing tank. Anyone have a third option?
Cleaning a water tank
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I wouldn't advise...
putting a flexible tank inside your existing tank... I don't know how you could do something like that. They need to take their own shape. Besides they cost more than a hard tank. There must be some sort of degreaser you could use... followed by some bleach. I think the taste might be there forever. Can you put a new watertank somewhere else??? Take out the old... and use space for storage. I have a water bladder in my boat and wouldn't think of drinking that water. We carry on what we drink... and use the on board water for everything else.
putting a flexible tank inside your existing tank... I don't know how you could do something like that. They need to take their own shape. Besides they cost more than a hard tank. There must be some sort of degreaser you could use... followed by some bleach. I think the taste might be there forever. Can you put a new watertank somewhere else??? Take out the old... and use space for storage. I have a water bladder in my boat and wouldn't think of drinking that water. We carry on what we drink... and use the on board water for everything else.
Three options...
Check archives- this has come up before Write to the Head Mistress- yes, it's fresh water, put she's all-knowing in all things plumbing Sail Magazine 3 or 4 months ago had an article on how to clean. Bleach was involved, but somehow I remember VODKA being the best thing to get diesel fuel out of fresh water tanks (filled wrong tube!), so I'm sure getting yours clean is possible. Good Luck! cup
Check archives- this has come up before Write to the Head Mistress- yes, it's fresh water, put she's all-knowing in all things plumbing Sail Magazine 3 or 4 months ago had an article on how to clean. Bleach was involved, but somehow I remember VODKA being the best thing to get diesel fuel out of fresh water tanks (filled wrong tube!), so I'm sure getting yours clean is possible. Good Luck! cup
Liquid dishwashing liquid like All has been known
to emulsify oil, and may help you clean out that tank. Joe S
to emulsify oil, and may help you clean out that tank. Joe S
Yes, My Friends, But...
...imulsified oil is still considered a pollutant in many areas. So, be careful if you pump it into the marina water. You can still get "bagged". Granted, I may still use it to do dishes, myself, but I will think twice about it, when I do!
...imulsified oil is still considered a pollutant in many areas. So, be careful if you pump it into the marina water. You can still get "bagged". Granted, I may still use it to do dishes, myself, but I will think twice about it, when I do!
If the tank is still full .....
go to a chandlery and get several 'bilge pillows' made from polypropylene fluff. Open the access port on the tank and load several of the 'pillows' (with strings attached) so they stay at the top of the filled tank. The pillows are 'oleophillic' and will quickly absorb a lot of the oil. When draining the tank if possible dont pump through the associated piping, rather use a pump directly from the tank .... so you dont spread the remaining oil, etc. through the piping with its relative large surface area. Follow up with MANY 'small' washings using strong detergent to emulsify the remaining oil, suck out the tank after each small washing ... use a long handled scrub brush and scrub as much as the internal surface that you can reach. You should suck out the tank directly each time you finish the 'small washing' .... dont pump through the piping if possible. Many small washing are mathematically superior to just one or two large large washings ..... the dilution effect will be mathematically / exponentially better. After the 'many' small washing then its OK to FILL the tank and let soak long term with detergent, etc. to extract any remaining oil. Although the type of carbon used in 'water filters' isnt very efficient for oil or hydrocarbon removal, Id still get a 10" filter housing and carbon packed filter from Home Depot, etc. and install it in the system. If you are using the tank for drinking water, consider to get a small pump and continually recirculate the tank water (slowly) through the carbon filter when you are on the boat and have the excess power to spare ..... this will continually 'strip' any remaining hydrocarbon fractions from the water. You can also consider to add an additional 10" filter housing and use a filter cartridge made of *all polypropylene* filter media ('depth type' filter) to additionally strip and adsorb any additional free oil that isnt removed by the washing ..... If you have good insurance, file a claim and replace the tank .... for health and safety reasons. Oil removal from polyethylene and other polymer surface is ...... damn difficult.
go to a chandlery and get several 'bilge pillows' made from polypropylene fluff. Open the access port on the tank and load several of the 'pillows' (with strings attached) so they stay at the top of the filled tank. The pillows are 'oleophillic' and will quickly absorb a lot of the oil. When draining the tank if possible dont pump through the associated piping, rather use a pump directly from the tank .... so you dont spread the remaining oil, etc. through the piping with its relative large surface area. Follow up with MANY 'small' washings using strong detergent to emulsify the remaining oil, suck out the tank after each small washing ... use a long handled scrub brush and scrub as much as the internal surface that you can reach. You should suck out the tank directly each time you finish the 'small washing' .... dont pump through the piping if possible. Many small washing are mathematically superior to just one or two large large washings ..... the dilution effect will be mathematically / exponentially better. After the 'many' small washing then its OK to FILL the tank and let soak long term with detergent, etc. to extract any remaining oil. Although the type of carbon used in 'water filters' isnt very efficient for oil or hydrocarbon removal, Id still get a 10" filter housing and carbon packed filter from Home Depot, etc. and install it in the system. If you are using the tank for drinking water, consider to get a small pump and continually recirculate the tank water (slowly) through the carbon filter when you are on the boat and have the excess power to spare ..... this will continually 'strip' any remaining hydrocarbon fractions from the water. You can also consider to add an additional 10" filter housing and use a filter cartridge made of *all polypropylene* filter media ('depth type' filter) to additionally strip and adsorb any additional free oil that isnt removed by the washing ..... If you have good insurance, file a claim and replace the tank .... for health and safety reasons. Oil removal from polyethylene and other polymer surface is ...... damn difficult.
Oil Pads!
Relating to picking up oil from the bilge, I found a site (from a post on this site) where you can purchase oil pads at a significantly lower price. There may be a location near you! http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Oil&L1=Oil $34.45/100 cnt
Relating to picking up oil from the bilge, I found a site (from a post on this site) where you can purchase oil pads at a significantly lower price. There may be a location near you! http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=Oil&L1=Oil $34.45/100 cnt
Really bad news!! I grew up on a farm where we hand milked
six cows. If a milk pail had ever been used for kerosene it could never be used for milking again. You just can't get rid of the taste. These pails were steel, lined with tin and completely seamless. Clean the tank as best you can but don't expect to be able to use it for potable water again.
six cows. If a milk pail had ever been used for kerosene it could never be used for milking again. You just can't get rid of the taste. These pails were steel, lined with tin and completely seamless. Clean the tank as best you can but don't expect to be able to use it for potable water again.
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