...in the Photo Forum. Many thanks to those who offered to scan in the pics. This arrangement works very well when singlehanding. In a strong blow, the jib sheets require a bit of muscle to release from the cams. I hope the person who installed PX cleats will post his pics and let us know how well they work. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/H240
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They are there now
It was easier than I thought it would be to install them. They are rated at 440 pounds not sure how much tugging the jib puts out. I have never needed to use the winch and do not think I am as strong as that. Checking their operation with a piece of line seemed to inicate that they will be real easy to work. I also noticed that I will be able to draw in the jib sheet without releasing the sheet. It is to be in the 80's later this week for all you folks in Yankeeland I'll give them a try and report back.
It was easier than I thought it would be to install them. They are rated at 440 pounds not sure how much tugging the jib puts out. I have never needed to use the winch and do not think I am as strong as that. Checking their operation with a piece of line seemed to inicate that they will be real easy to work. I also noticed that I will be able to draw in the jib sheet without releasing the sheet. It is to be in the 80's later this week for all you folks in Yankeeland I'll give them a try and report back.
You are the MEN!!!
Great job guys. It is so much better to visualize what you guys have talked about. Question for Rick, did you use the same holes or have to tap new ones? Thanks again guys and now I know at least one of my off season projects I HAVE TO GET DONE.
Great job guys. It is so much better to visualize what you guys have talked about. Question for Rick, did you use the same holes or have to tap new ones? Thanks again guys and now I know at least one of my off season projects I HAVE TO GET DONE.
A Couple of Questions
Mark, Many, many thanks for posting the pics in the photo forum. I just purchased a pair of Harken model 356 cams/fairleads to install on my own 240. This appears to be the same model you installed. Now to the questions (please keep in mind that I am a new boat owner and new to sailing -- in other words, pretty ignorant about a lot of things): 1. How high are the teak blocks? Harken makes risers for this cam model that are about an inch high. Is there a reason why you chose the teak over the stock risers? 2. Since the mounting point for the cams and rope clutches has a metal backing place, what was the rationale for installing the stainless steel plates on top? Was it simply to create a neater installation (ie - cover the holes from the old, useless clam cleats) or to provide more structural rigidity? 3. How thick is the stainless and did you fabricate it yourself. If not, where did you get it done? 4. RE: the bolts used for mounting the cam cleat to the plate: I assume the hardware is stainless? What sizes and length are the bolts? The installation looks absolutely first class. I hope mine turns out as well. I live in Wake Forest, NC (not far from you) and would love to talk with you by phone or email about the project. Paul Jordan Mithrandir/H240
Mark, Many, many thanks for posting the pics in the photo forum. I just purchased a pair of Harken model 356 cams/fairleads to install on my own 240. This appears to be the same model you installed. Now to the questions (please keep in mind that I am a new boat owner and new to sailing -- in other words, pretty ignorant about a lot of things): 1. How high are the teak blocks? Harken makes risers for this cam model that are about an inch high. Is there a reason why you chose the teak over the stock risers? 2. Since the mounting point for the cams and rope clutches has a metal backing place, what was the rationale for installing the stainless steel plates on top? Was it simply to create a neater installation (ie - cover the holes from the old, useless clam cleats) or to provide more structural rigidity? 3. How thick is the stainless and did you fabricate it yourself. If not, where did you get it done? 4. RE: the bolts used for mounting the cam cleat to the plate: I assume the hardware is stainless? What sizes and length are the bolts? The installation looks absolutely first class. I hope mine turns out as well. I live in Wake Forest, NC (not far from you) and would love to talk with you by phone or email about the project. Paul Jordan Mithrandir/H240
A few answers.
Hi Paul, I've never seen an ignorant sailing-related or other question but I'm sure I've provided plenty of ignorant answers. I'll do my best to answer your GOOD questions... 1)I chose the teak because I had a piece on hand looking for a place to be used. I didn't measure the heighth but I believe it is approximately 1 1/4 inches. The 1 inch riser from Harken would probably do the job. The Harken riser might be better. If you look closely at the photos, you can see a crack that has developed in the teak. I'll have to replace them some time but I like the look the teak gives to the installation. The important factor is to get the cam at about the same height as the jib fairlead blocks. This will give you much better leverage when you are seated aft and try to pull down on the sheet to lock it in. 2)The stainless plates were used for strictly cosmetic reasons as you mention. If the cams were mounted directly on the plate, I would probably have drilled and tapped. My fear was that sitting on the riser, there might be too much leverage on the cam in a strong blow. I didn't want to have one pull out. Probably overkill, but provides me peace of mind. 3)The plates are approximately 3/32 inch thick. I am lucky in a couple of respects since the stainless was a gift from my brother and my father has an electric metal-cutting bandsaw. If you've ever tried to cut this stuff with a "hand-operated" band saw, you will quickly find that it's TOUGH. The corners were slightly radiused on a grinder. 4)You are correct. The hardware is all stainless picked up at West Marine. I don't remember the exact lengths I purchased but 3 1/2 inch sounds about right for the cam screws; a shorter one for the forward screw (sorry I can't be more specific regarding the lengths but it has been a while since I made this modification). You could probably use 4 inch since there is still plenty of room inside the inspection cover area. Just remember to use Ny-lock nuts on the screws if you decide to through drill. I also backed each screw with a 3/4 inch stainless fender washer. 5)My thanks to you and the others for the nice comments! I'm sure yours will turn out great. I emailed you off-line with my home phone #. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/H240
Hi Paul, I've never seen an ignorant sailing-related or other question but I'm sure I've provided plenty of ignorant answers. I'll do my best to answer your GOOD questions... 1)I chose the teak because I had a piece on hand looking for a place to be used. I didn't measure the heighth but I believe it is approximately 1 1/4 inches. The 1 inch riser from Harken would probably do the job. The Harken riser might be better. If you look closely at the photos, you can see a crack that has developed in the teak. I'll have to replace them some time but I like the look the teak gives to the installation. The important factor is to get the cam at about the same height as the jib fairlead blocks. This will give you much better leverage when you are seated aft and try to pull down on the sheet to lock it in. 2)The stainless plates were used for strictly cosmetic reasons as you mention. If the cams were mounted directly on the plate, I would probably have drilled and tapped. My fear was that sitting on the riser, there might be too much leverage on the cam in a strong blow. I didn't want to have one pull out. Probably overkill, but provides me peace of mind. 3)The plates are approximately 3/32 inch thick. I am lucky in a couple of respects since the stainless was a gift from my brother and my father has an electric metal-cutting bandsaw. If you've ever tried to cut this stuff with a "hand-operated" band saw, you will quickly find that it's TOUGH. The corners were slightly radiused on a grinder. 4)You are correct. The hardware is all stainless picked up at West Marine. I don't remember the exact lengths I purchased but 3 1/2 inch sounds about right for the cam screws; a shorter one for the forward screw (sorry I can't be more specific regarding the lengths but it has been a while since I made this modification). You could probably use 4 inch since there is still plenty of room inside the inspection cover area. Just remember to use Ny-lock nuts on the screws if you decide to through drill. I also backed each screw with a 3/4 inch stainless fender washer. 5)My thanks to you and the others for the nice comments! I'm sure yours will turn out great. I emailed you off-line with my home phone #. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/H240
Holes?
I used the same ones, but I am not sure I would do it the same way. The cleats are made for M6 bolts. I did not have any nor did any place around here. #12 machine screws may have worked I did not find any of those either. So I took my dremel and reworked the cleats a little so that the 1/4 20 machine screws that came out would work. If I were to do it again I would find either the #12 or the M6 machine screws and tap new holes. I just got in a hurry and did not want to wait. My next project should be really neat. I removed the foward bulkhead the formica one. It is being replaced with a piece of teak plywood with a bookshelf built in and my AM/FM, cassete, C/D changer control, radio mouted in it. Pictures will be posted on that as well.
I used the same ones, but I am not sure I would do it the same way. The cleats are made for M6 bolts. I did not have any nor did any place around here. #12 machine screws may have worked I did not find any of those either. So I took my dremel and reworked the cleats a little so that the 1/4 20 machine screws that came out would work. If I were to do it again I would find either the #12 or the M6 machine screws and tap new holes. I just got in a hurry and did not want to wait. My next project should be really neat. I removed the foward bulkhead the formica one. It is being replaced with a piece of teak plywood with a bookshelf built in and my AM/FM, cassete, C/D changer control, radio mouted in it. Pictures will be posted on that as well.
So....... Hunter when?
So..... when are you going to offer a nice conversion???? Perhaps make it orrigninal equipment also. YOU KNOW.... THE CAM CLEAT
So..... when are you going to offer a nice conversion???? Perhaps make it orrigninal equipment also. YOU KNOW.... THE CAM CLEAT
Suggestion for Joe
Joe, I suggest you voice your suggestion to the following: http://www.luhrs.com/huntermarine/techinfopg.html it's a questions input page for Hunter Marine. At the beginning of the input I would make it Attention: Design and Engineering and then politely tell them why Clam Cleats are the most asanine invention on the planet for jib sheets on deck tops.
Joe, I suggest you voice your suggestion to the following: http://www.luhrs.com/huntermarine/techinfopg.html it's a questions input page for Hunter Marine. At the beginning of the input I would make it Attention: Design and Engineering and then politely tell them why Clam Cleats are the most asanine invention on the planet for jib sheets on deck tops.
Change Them
I agree that the cleats provided are not the best way to to do it the location leaves somthing to be desired as well. The solution is simple: Change them and get over it.
I agree that the cleats provided are not the best way to to do it the location leaves somthing to be desired as well. The solution is simple: Change them and get over it.
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