I just bought a Mac 25 the tiller is roted and the rudder is missing. The owner said he has it but he also said he had a kicker I haven't seen yet. I found a lathe some one was throwing out and will spin a tiller. I have the roted one so I got somthing to go buy. The rudder on the other hand like I said before is missing. I like making things and this is right up my alley. I will make it out of wood and resen. any comments or concerns,specs, mabe an old broken one laying around I could get some mesurements from.or just to say thats stupid in the voice of Larry the Cable Guy.
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Two ways
1. Check any comparable boat in your marina for the set-up. 2. Go to West Marine and look at their tillers for sale.
1. Check any comparable boat in your marina for the set-up. 2. Go to West Marine and look at their tillers for sale.
We have it here
We have world class tillers (laminated ash and mahogany) and rudders here on this website. I'm happy to help if you have any questions. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/category.htm?&fno=400&cat=2506 http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail-custom_tillers.htm?fno=400&group=721 Dave Groshong customer service SailboatOwners.com toll free 877-932-7245 ext.116, Mon-Fri, 9-5 Pacific
We have world class tillers (laminated ash and mahogany) and rudders here on this website. I'm happy to help if you have any questions. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/category.htm?&fno=400&cat=2506 http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail-custom_tillers.htm?fno=400&group=721 Dave Groshong customer service SailboatOwners.com toll free 877-932-7245 ext.116, Mon-Fri, 9-5 Pacific
No lathe
Your tiller needs to be laminated (layered) to provide strenght. A solid tiller will snap very easily. If you have even minor wood working skills making your own will be simple. Use a large sheet of plywood to make a jig. Cover it with wax paper(this will keep the finished tiller from sticking to the jig base). Drill holes and place wooden pegs into the plywood in the size and shape you desire, don't glue them in just fit them in nice and tight. The wood you choose is up to you: teak, ash, mahogany, or if you want to be cheap and ugly exterior grade pressure treated lumber. Using alternating types of wood will create an attractive look and ensure your grain runs diffrent. You will need several strips about 1/4 inch thick (1/8 would be even better if possible). The length and width depends on how long and wide you want your tiller. Do a dry run first laying your srtips thru the jig with no adhesive, this will help you practice and get an idea how thick your final product will be. Bend the strips thru the jig on their thin side, add strip by strip with grains running opposite to each other until you have atleast 4 layers making the diameter of the tiller the way you want (6-8 layers of 1/8 is best). The base may need to be thicker than you desire in order to fit onto your rudder post, once you're done you can carve the rest down to the size you desire. Once you are happy and have a good feel for the process start over and use adhesive to make the final product. Use marine epoxy resin or polyester resin as your adhesive. A good marine shop, boatyard, or even lumber yard should be able to help you select a product available in your area. Roughly sand the broad sides of your strips where they will make contact then coat them with adhesive, glop it on, you can't use too much, and the excess will squeeze out any way, but don't worry about cleaning up yet. Then repeat your trial process. Once every thing is complete calmp it all together, lots of clamps, very tight. Allow your resin to cure and remove it from the jig (pegs and all) and clean up with sanders or grinders or what ever it takes to remove excess resin and grind the pegs off. Your finished product will be a big ugly square piece of wood in the general shape of a tiller that will be very strong. Now begin the process of sculpting your finished product. Use power sanders and planers to remove the rough edges then finish with hand sanding. Remember that the base of the tiller will need to remain square for some distance so it fits well into the goose neck at the top of your rudder post. This is a rough, quick guide but you should get the idea. Its a very simple process and in the end you will have something custom made to your personal size and shape, not to mention the pride of making it yourself. Varnish the daylights out of it, 20+ coats so it will be a real center piece on your boat, because you will always want to brag about it. Allen Wilson sv No Destination Biloxi nodestinationsailor@hotmail.com
Your tiller needs to be laminated (layered) to provide strenght. A solid tiller will snap very easily. If you have even minor wood working skills making your own will be simple. Use a large sheet of plywood to make a jig. Cover it with wax paper(this will keep the finished tiller from sticking to the jig base). Drill holes and place wooden pegs into the plywood in the size and shape you desire, don't glue them in just fit them in nice and tight. The wood you choose is up to you: teak, ash, mahogany, or if you want to be cheap and ugly exterior grade pressure treated lumber. Using alternating types of wood will create an attractive look and ensure your grain runs diffrent. You will need several strips about 1/4 inch thick (1/8 would be even better if possible). The length and width depends on how long and wide you want your tiller. Do a dry run first laying your srtips thru the jig with no adhesive, this will help you practice and get an idea how thick your final product will be. Bend the strips thru the jig on their thin side, add strip by strip with grains running opposite to each other until you have atleast 4 layers making the diameter of the tiller the way you want (6-8 layers of 1/8 is best). The base may need to be thicker than you desire in order to fit onto your rudder post, once you're done you can carve the rest down to the size you desire. Once you are happy and have a good feel for the process start over and use adhesive to make the final product. Use marine epoxy resin or polyester resin as your adhesive. A good marine shop, boatyard, or even lumber yard should be able to help you select a product available in your area. Roughly sand the broad sides of your strips where they will make contact then coat them with adhesive, glop it on, you can't use too much, and the excess will squeeze out any way, but don't worry about cleaning up yet. Then repeat your trial process. Once every thing is complete calmp it all together, lots of clamps, very tight. Allow your resin to cure and remove it from the jig (pegs and all) and clean up with sanders or grinders or what ever it takes to remove excess resin and grind the pegs off. Your finished product will be a big ugly square piece of wood in the general shape of a tiller that will be very strong. Now begin the process of sculpting your finished product. Use power sanders and planers to remove the rough edges then finish with hand sanding. Remember that the base of the tiller will need to remain square for some distance so it fits well into the goose neck at the top of your rudder post. This is a rough, quick guide but you should get the idea. Its a very simple process and in the end you will have something custom made to your personal size and shape, not to mention the pride of making it yourself. Varnish the daylights out of it, 20+ coats so it will be a real center piece on your boat, because you will always want to brag about it. Allen Wilson sv No Destination Biloxi nodestinationsailor@hotmail.com
I have an IdaSailor tiller and rudder
and the performance was definately enhanced with this product. The rudder bites well, even heeled to 60*. I did get spun out downwind once but no rudder would've held in that situation. It was cool, swapped ends with lotsa spray and no damage other than my pride.
and the performance was definately enhanced with this product. The rudder bites well, even heeled to 60*. I did get spun out downwind once but no rudder would've held in that situation. It was cool, swapped ends with lotsa spray and no damage other than my pride.
I'm an old do it yourselfer too,
I just replaced my tiller. The one that was on there looked like a replacement. It was made of an aluminum tube. I didn't like the look and was going to make one myself. Then I found so nice ones on Ebay for about $40. I ended up buying one from an old venture on Ebay for $25. It was really nicely made and freshly revarnished. I had to route out the back so it fit into the channel and added my autopilot bracket but it turned out great. You will be surprisede what you find there with a little patience. The was one that I was out bid on that had the handle carved into the shape of a whale head. The is a guy who regularly sells various shaped tillers for about 50-60 dollars. Its also a good place to look for rudders. Good luck. I checked it out for you and this one should work fine. You can't beat the price.
I just replaced my tiller. The one that was on there looked like a replacement. It was made of an aluminum tube. I didn't like the look and was going to make one myself. Then I found so nice ones on Ebay for about $40. I ended up buying one from an old venture on Ebay for $25. It was really nicely made and freshly revarnished. I had to route out the back so it fit into the channel and added my autopilot bracket but it turned out great. You will be surprisede what you find there with a little patience. The was one that I was out bid on that had the handle carved into the shape of a whale head. The is a guy who regularly sells various shaped tillers for about 50-60 dollars. Its also a good place to look for rudders. Good luck. I checked it out for you and this one should work fine. You can't beat the price.
Take note;
Many years ago I had a 21'Buccaneer and lost the rudder when the boat grounded at anchor. Luckly I was about to find another Buccaneer near by and the owner let me use his rudder as a templete. I used 2 pieces of marine grade plywood which I glued together to get the proper thickness. I used a belt sander to make the contours and finally put 4 layers of fiber glass over each side, sanded it smooth and used fairing compound to finnish. I painted it with a 2 part poly. It looked as good as the original. One thing that I did notice was a bit of a "shutter" in the rudder at low boat spead. If you don't do an excellent job of fairing this is what will happen. Be aware, make sure the rudder is faired evenly.
Many years ago I had a 21'Buccaneer and lost the rudder when the boat grounded at anchor. Luckly I was about to find another Buccaneer near by and the owner let me use his rudder as a templete. I used 2 pieces of marine grade plywood which I glued together to get the proper thickness. I used a belt sander to make the contours and finally put 4 layers of fiber glass over each side, sanded it smooth and used fairing compound to finnish. I painted it with a 2 part poly. It looked as good as the original. One thing that I did notice was a bit of a "shutter" in the rudder at low boat spead. If you don't do an excellent job of fairing this is what will happen. Be aware, make sure the rudder is faired evenly.
Jaques, a solid tiller will be fine. If you can
find a hardwood branch that's thicker than you need and work it down that's a good approach. I like your attitude. A dumpster lathe is a great find! The trouble with the lathe turned tiller is it's not curved. Actually it would work fine, but a curved tiller looks better. A natural curved branch is how they did it in the old days. I really like the look. Where you live you may be able to find a bois d'arc (osage orange) branch. That would be stronger than a laminated tiller. You can make your rudder out of plywood. 2 layers of 3/4 inch is plenty for a Mac 25. Two layers of 1/2 inch is enough if you glass it with cloth and epoxy resin. If you can afford real marine plywood (none made in the US) which has a BS1088 stamp, at around $150 for a sheet of 3/4 inch, you can just cut it out, shape it, glue it together, paint it and use it as is. Sorry, no destination, but polyester resin is lousy glue. Aside from that, your instructions for a laminated tiller are fine. I would not want to use treated wood for a tiller because you get the poison on your hands, and I like to eat and drink while I sail.
find a hardwood branch that's thicker than you need and work it down that's a good approach. I like your attitude. A dumpster lathe is a great find! The trouble with the lathe turned tiller is it's not curved. Actually it would work fine, but a curved tiller looks better. A natural curved branch is how they did it in the old days. I really like the look. Where you live you may be able to find a bois d'arc (osage orange) branch. That would be stronger than a laminated tiller. You can make your rudder out of plywood. 2 layers of 3/4 inch is plenty for a Mac 25. Two layers of 1/2 inch is enough if you glass it with cloth and epoxy resin. If you can afford real marine plywood (none made in the US) which has a BS1088 stamp, at around $150 for a sheet of 3/4 inch, you can just cut it out, shape it, glue it together, paint it and use it as is. Sorry, no destination, but polyester resin is lousy glue. Aside from that, your instructions for a laminated tiller are fine. I would not want to use treated wood for a tiller because you get the poison on your hands, and I like to eat and drink while I sail.
If you noticed...
I sugested marine epoxy first. Alot of people with out access to or knowledge of professional adhesives or how to get them have trouble. I was meerely saying that if he can't locate a good marine epoxy that polyester resin would do. Its not ideal for wood applications, but I have laid many a deck with polyresin over plywood and glassed a few wooden boats with polyresin. Remember if you own a fiberglass boat built since 1970 you have a nothing but polyester resin holding it together, so I hope you can find new faith in the product. At any rate I would certainly prefer a laminated rudder with polyresin to a branch off some tree. As for pressure treated, I only suggested it as a price saving alternative.
I sugested marine epoxy first. Alot of people with out access to or knowledge of professional adhesives or how to get them have trouble. I was meerely saying that if he can't locate a good marine epoxy that polyester resin would do. Its not ideal for wood applications, but I have laid many a deck with polyresin over plywood and glassed a few wooden boats with polyresin. Remember if you own a fiberglass boat built since 1970 you have a nothing but polyester resin holding it together, so I hope you can find new faith in the product. At any rate I would certainly prefer a laminated rudder with polyresin to a branch off some tree. As for pressure treated, I only suggested it as a price saving alternative.
Old fashioned brown powder
woodworkers glue of yellow carpenters glue, or any epoxy, even if it doesn't say marine, would be better than polyester resin for wood glue. Our boats stick together because the fabric is saturated with resin. A "branch off some tree" describes the masts on a lot of boats. If Jaques can find a piece of bois d'arc or yew, or even good tight grain douglas fir, it will be plenty strong for a tiller. You can spend around $10,000 for a voilin bow made by my neighbor, Michael Vann, made of a "banch off some old tree".
woodworkers glue of yellow carpenters glue, or any epoxy, even if it doesn't say marine, would be better than polyester resin for wood glue. Our boats stick together because the fabric is saturated with resin. A "branch off some tree" describes the masts on a lot of boats. If Jaques can find a piece of bois d'arc or yew, or even good tight grain douglas fir, it will be plenty strong for a tiller. You can spend around $10,000 for a voilin bow made by my neighbor, Michael Vann, made of a "banch off some old tree".
Concerning purchasing tillers from this site:
I wrote an email to the link advertized stating my requirements last fall. I still haven't heard back from them.
I wrote an email to the link advertized stating my requirements last fall. I still haven't heard back from them.
Made replacement tiller
for my San Juan 24 about 15 years ago when the old one broke. I made a form from a 2X8 on which I traced the curve of the old one. I then cut slots so I could clamp the layers to the curved form. I used 1/4 inch thick strips of Ash and Iroko layered alternately. I glued with epoxy and glued two strips at time together then to the clamped layers. they take a set to the form after the first 4 or so have dryed. When it was done I shaped it round with a underknob at the end with a spoke shave and a bunch of sanding, and put in the extension arm socket I finished with a coat of clear epoxy and renew it every few years. I think it is better than the original.
for my San Juan 24 about 15 years ago when the old one broke. I made a form from a 2X8 on which I traced the curve of the old one. I then cut slots so I could clamp the layers to the curved form. I used 1/4 inch thick strips of Ash and Iroko layered alternately. I glued with epoxy and glued two strips at time together then to the clamped layers. they take a set to the form after the first 4 or so have dryed. When it was done I shaped it round with a underknob at the end with a spoke shave and a bunch of sanding, and put in the extension arm socket I finished with a coat of clear epoxy and renew it every few years. I think it is better than the original.
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