I want to replace my upright 120 volt refrigerator with a chest model or have a refrigeration unit installed in my ice box. I do not want to spend the money on a 12v./120v. unit because my boat is on shore power every day. I haven't been able to find a manufacturer that builds a chest style. Does anyone have any info?
Chest frig/120 volt
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Using the ice box
One of my future projects is to add insulation and then refigerate the existing ice box. I am going to attempt to use the compressor and evaporator from one of the small fridges like you are talking about. I have most of the pieces assembled, from cutting up and removing them from a little dorm fridge. The compressor is rated for 0.9 amps, which is roughly 9 amps when run through an inverter. Hopefully by adding insulation to the box, I can get it to where the compressor runs 25% of the time or less. I am currently using a 4.3 cf 120v fridge, very similar, and my 300 watts of solar keeps up pretty well, unless two or three cloudy days in a row. Might want to give a similar project some thought, if you are fairly handy and have some refrigeration knowledge, or know someone who does. Is not that complicated.
One of my future projects is to add insulation and then refigerate the existing ice box. I am going to attempt to use the compressor and evaporator from one of the small fridges like you are talking about. I have most of the pieces assembled, from cutting up and removing them from a little dorm fridge. The compressor is rated for 0.9 amps, which is roughly 9 amps when run through an inverter. Hopefully by adding insulation to the box, I can get it to where the compressor runs 25% of the time or less. I am currently using a 4.3 cf 120v fridge, very similar, and my 300 watts of solar keeps up pretty well, unless two or three cloudy days in a row. Might want to give a similar project some thought, if you are fairly handy and have some refrigeration knowledge, or know someone who does. Is not that complicated.
Very tempting, I have a Sonic 23 with an icebox that would be an excellent candidate for a similar project. Did you disassemble the refrigeration components from one another, or did you just cut the fridge plastic, sheet metal, and insulation away from it?
Cut it up
The one I had was made in such a way that basically all I had to do was cut the lines from the compressor and remove it. For the evaporator it was necessary to cut the back out of the unit to get to the tubing and get out of the box. The way these things are made, they just run the tubing from the compressor up against the outside sheet metal for a condensor. My thinking is that with a better condensing unit, it will be a lot more efficient. I have not yet figured out the best thing to use for a condensor, but I have a fairly large and very flat bilge, which a standard bilge pump will not get all the water out of. Thinking about running about six or eight feet of tubing down in there, and let that be the condensor. This project is on my to do list, but not anywhere near the top yet, so it will probably be this winter before I get after it.
The one I had was made in such a way that basically all I had to do was cut the lines from the compressor and remove it. For the evaporator it was necessary to cut the back out of the unit to get to the tubing and get out of the box. The way these things are made, they just run the tubing from the compressor up against the outside sheet metal for a condensor. My thinking is that with a better condensing unit, it will be a lot more efficient. I have not yet figured out the best thing to use for a condensor, but I have a fairly large and very flat bilge, which a standard bilge pump will not get all the water out of. Thinking about running about six or eight feet of tubing down in there, and let that be the condensor. This project is on my to do list, but not anywhere near the top yet, so it will probably be this winter before I get after it.
defrost leaks?
I noticed your post and many others like it, regarding the use of a normal house/dorm refrig that is an upright model. I know from my college days that every time you defrost such a refrig the water runs into a tray - then all over the contents of the refrig and out the door. Is this a problem with your installation or did you install a drain and slightly tilt the refrig back? I would assume every time you go sailing for a day or so the full defrost would make a mess.
Stu;
I noticed your post and many others like it, regarding the use of a normal house/dorm refrig that is an upright model. I know from my college days that every time you defrost such a refrig the water runs into a tray - then all over the contents of the refrig and out the door. Is this a problem with your installation or did you install a drain and slightly tilt the refrig back? I would assume every time you go sailing for a day or so the full defrost would make a mess.
Not my fridge
Neal, that's a post for just the idea that another C34 owner contributed. We have a simple Adler Barbour Cold Machine 12V.
Dunno what they do away form the dock with just 120V and running through an inverter is a 10:1 power loss, so help me understand why anyone would wanna do that?
Neal, that's a post for just the idea that another C34 owner contributed. We have a simple Adler Barbour Cold Machine 12V.
Dunno what they do away form the dock with just 120V and running through an inverter is a 10:1 power loss, so help me understand why anyone would wanna do that?
Dock side condo or sailboat?
So why would anyone want to do that? - Dockside condo is the answer.
I have the same; Adler Barbour Cold Machine 12V - insulation is the key to success with this unit. Often thought it would be better to have a 120V / 12 volt option but the Adler Barbour would have to break for me to really consider - think that if could use just 120 at the dock then could be less taxing on the battery / charging system.
So why would anyone want to do that? - Dockside condo is the answer.
Sodder tubing
Let me know if the tubing can be sodered. I think those cheap frigs use aluminium tubing.
Let me know if the tubing can be sodered. I think those cheap frigs use aluminium tubing.
Dorm Fridge
I have a 4.3 cf dorm fridge that consumes .9 amps on 120 volts, which is approx. 9 amps when run through an inverter. It runs through a 1200 watt xantrex inverter. off a 450 ah battery bank. 300 watts of solar keeps things charged up pretty good, unless we get two or three pretty cloudy days in a row. Normally it is on float by mid afternoon. So far I have no solution to the defrost thing. Other than a sponge.
I have a 4.3 cf dorm fridge that consumes .9 amps on 120 volts, which is approx. 9 amps when run through an inverter. It runs through a 1200 watt xantrex inverter. off a 450 ah battery bank. 300 watts of solar keeps things charged up pretty good, unless we get two or three pretty cloudy days in a row. Normally it is on float by mid afternoon. So far I have no solution to the defrost thing. Other than a sponge.
The Adler Barbour draws a nominal 5 amps when running, usually has a 50% duty cycle.
Just for comparison sake.
Just for comparison sake.
Steve D...
I have a small dorm-type fridge on my H34. Once it's been running overnight, it will hold everything inside cold (only a small amount of heat gain) for about 6 hours so far (longest usual time between marinas) as long as the door is kept closed. It draws about 5 amps on AC so could be run sporatically off an inverter if necessary.
We also normally transport our cold stuff to and from the boat in a Coleman AC/DC cooler and use it actively aboard in port or sailing. It draws 5 amps on DC and we connect it through a lighter socket when motoring and unplug it when sailing. It too will hold things cold, but for a much longer time period. We also put a piece of high density foam on top of the contents, with a tight fit on all sides, to cut down on any heat gain from the lid's friction seal.
I have a small dorm-type fridge on my H34. Once it's been running overnight, it will hold everything inside cold (only a small amount of heat gain) for about 6 hours so far (longest usual time between marinas) as long as the door is kept closed. It draws about 5 amps on AC so could be run sporatically off an inverter if necessary.
We also normally transport our cold stuff to and from the boat in a Coleman AC/DC cooler and use it actively aboard in port or sailing. It draws 5 amps on DC and we connect it through a lighter socket when motoring and unplug it when sailing. It too will hold things cold, but for a much longer time period. We also put a piece of high density foam on top of the contents, with a tight fit on all sides, to cut down on any heat gain from the lid's friction seal.
Fridge
As stated previously, my set up is a 4.3 cf dorm type fridge. Draws 0.9 amps on 120V which is approx. 10 amps on 12V when run through an inverter. Duty cycle is about 30%, and a tad less at night, maybe 25%. It runs off a Xantrex 1200 watt inverter and a 450ah battery bank. 300 watts of solar keeps things up pretty good. Recently out for 6 weeks on a S.Fl cruise, and it was necessary to run the engine one time after two days with heavy clouds, to charge batteries. The unit I cut apart to install in the ice box, has copper tubing, so not a problem with silver solder. I also have a friend who is a good refigeration guy, to give advice and help when needed. This will give me a power consumption of less than 50ah per day, or at least that is my target. I hope that I can get the duty cycle down to around 20% when I get this project completed. Am planning on adding 3" of insulation to the box, and improving on the condensor set up. Hopefully this will all work out OK, and will keep everyone informed when I get around to starting this project.
As stated previously, my set up is a 4.3 cf dorm type fridge. Draws 0.9 amps on 120V which is approx. 10 amps on 12V when run through an inverter. Duty cycle is about 30%, and a tad less at night, maybe 25%. It runs off a Xantrex 1200 watt inverter and a 450ah battery bank. 300 watts of solar keeps things up pretty good. Recently out for 6 weeks on a S.Fl cruise, and it was necessary to run the engine one time after two days with heavy clouds, to charge batteries. The unit I cut apart to install in the ice box, has copper tubing, so not a problem with silver solder. I also have a friend who is a good refigeration guy, to give advice and help when needed. This will give me a power consumption of less than 50ah per day, or at least that is my target. I hope that I can get the duty cycle down to around 20% when I get this project completed. Am planning on adding 3" of insulation to the box, and improving on the condensor set up. Hopefully this will all work out OK, and will keep everyone informed when I get around to starting this project.
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