Cherubini Toerail.

[Ed Schenck]

Hey guys and gals,
Is this our toerail?
http://www.iboats.com/1-9-16-x-1-1-2-Aluminum-Sailboat-Toe-Rail-A62-0009/dm/view_id.272167
Isn't that a lot to pay for 34 feet?

 

[Phil Herring]

Looks a little small to me and has a slightly different profile.

If these were made by the container load and sold at Walmart it would be high, but the reality is they're made in small quantities and these prices are the result.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I'm sure you are right Phil. Rick is installing all new, there is none on the 37-cutter that he is rebuilding. So it might be good enough. Wish my boat were closer than 90 minutes.

 

[kloudie1]

Ed, check this site.. ya might be able to find your cross section..
http://crestaluminum.com/Main/Marine/Toerail.htm

 

[Phil Herring]

Yes, Crest is our source, too, and they do have the right profile. The Taco might work if you can test it with a short piece. Obviously, you don't want to return a 34' length of metal.

 

[Blaise]

Crest has the tooling that my insurance company paid for and they made me new toerails. They were (are) perfect. The TACO toe rail is set up for fasteners on four iinch centers, ours are six iinch centers.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks guys. So 2821HC-346 is the Crest part number. I understand very expensive, about $2400. to do the boat.

 

[JimBr]

Hi Ed, Is your old toe rail in that bad of shape? OR just poorly painted and upgy like mine>

 

[rblevens]

I decided to repair and paint my old toe rails for now. What kind of bolts and nuts should I use... metalurgy?
Rick

 

[Ed Schenck]

Hi Rick, do you not have any of the original bolts? My bolts are stainless naturally. The heads are philips-like and rounded, called pan head I think. They are maybe four inches long and have a 7/16" nut. So I guess that makes the bolt 1/4" diameter?

 

[rardiH36]

I should be at my boat later today. I've got a 36' but from pic's through the years, I believe the toe rail system is the same as your 37'.

Ed's advice of 1/4" sounds right, but I will double check. 316 stainless for sure. The nuts are the locking type with the nylon inserts built in. Also, each bolt needs a backing washer on the underside. Lot's of bolts/nuts/washers. I think one every 6" x say 34 ft of toe rail x 2 sides = 136 sets. Something to order in bulk on line for sure. When I tightened my toe rail bolts a couple of years ago, I was struck that the bolts were probably an inch longer than really needed to be. But maybe the extra length helps with the actual installation phase of the toe rails rather than what is needed to keep them in place afterwards.

 

[rblevens]

Thanks... has there been an issue with the 314 stainless and aluminum?

 

[jorgefife]

Toerail

Thanks... has there been an issue with the 314 stainless and aluminum?

My H33 (82) has a piece about 4 feet that was damaged, starboard side, from Ike
I have my eye on the whole section because there is a boat like mine where I will take it from. It is free for me, but I have not had the energy to cut it out from the boat
But the port side is available, aswell as both sides from a 36 feet Hunter
I believe you could have it for about $200.00, but the problem is the transport. Which brings in a question: are these toerails installed in sections, or one solid long piece? I my case, I will just probably cut out the piece I want and weld in place
Thought I would mention to you, in case someone needs these parts

 

[rardiH36]

Are you getting a new toe rail? The anodizing does retard the galvanic corrosion issue. But it will happen. Not any other alternative that I have seen. SS (and 316 is the standard) is the only type of metal that can be used on a boat (other than bronze which probably won't be strong enough and probably also will have the galvanic issue with aluminum). My boat/rail have been mated together for 32 years with SS hardware. From the deck, yes the nice brown anodizing around most of the bolt heads has been disturbed by the galvanic reaction. But seems that this occurred early and hasn't gone much further since. Still holding firm.

 

[rardiH36]

My H33 (82) Which brings in a question: are these toerails installed in sections, or one solid long piece? I my case, I will just probably cut out the piece I want and weld in place

Hi Jorge:

I should first qualify my response with the fact that I personally have not changed out a toe rail. But certainly they are generally one uninterrupted piece from pulpit to pulpit. Welding a small piece in place might be difficult with the piece and the rest of the toe rail on the boat. If you don't want to remove the entire length and replace with an entire length, then maybe find some way to camouflage the joints?

 

[rardiH36]

Checked my 1980 36' today. Definitely 7/16" socket fits the nut = 1/4".
As to length, it is the bolts for my stanchions that are long. The toe rails bolts, have only 3/4" penetrating through on the nut side. + 1/4" for toe rail thickness + 1/4" for deck frp thickness + 1/4" for hull flange thickness = 1.5" total length. Considering much different from Ed's recollection of 4", suggest that you get the info from other 37 owners --- or take one off your own boat to be sure.