I'm considering one of the 74-83 Hunter 30's and I've caught wind of mast compression issues on these. After searching the archives on here, there's somewhat limited information on the discussion boards particular to the 30. I've read owner reviews, but it's pretty hard to interract on those and talk about difficulties faced in correcting the problem. I'm not 100% certain the boat I'm considering does have the problem as I've not commissioned a surveyor yet, but want to know if this is something I should avoid altogether, or if it's something which will cost a couple thousand to fix and should be taken into account upon making an offer, have it fixed and be happy with my purchase. I'm capable of doing most of my own work. Just curious if this is a job best left to a marine professional or if someone with pretty good mechanical aptitude can tackle successfully.
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Hunter 30 1979
I am the 3rd owner of my 1979 cherubini hunter and talk to the 2nd " prefious owner " regularly. No one has ever mentioned that problem at all. NOt to say it can't happen though. Id just get a good survey done regardless of what boat .
I am the 3rd owner of my 1979 cherubini hunter and talk to the 2nd " prefious owner " regularly. No one has ever mentioned that problem at all. NOt to say it can't happen though. Id just get a good survey done regardless of what boat .
Thank You Patrick!
Patrick, Thanks for your help and the step-by-step photos. It's sailors like yourself who document your work that make sailing so great for everyone else. That eases a lot of concerns for me. I like the Cherubini Hunters and have heard so many great things about them being "bullet-proof". This seems to be the primary issue I've read on it on the owner reviews, other than adverse prop walk in reverse on the 30, and the rather anemic stock single cyl. Yanmar. I sail on an inland lake, so pretty rare I'll ever find myself having a hard time bucking wind and waves trying to get home with a small diesel.
Patrick, Thanks for your help and the step-by-step photos. It's sailors like yourself who document your work that make sailing so great for everyone else. That eases a lot of concerns for me. I like the Cherubini Hunters and have heard so many great things about them being "bullet-proof". This seems to be the primary issue I've read on it on the owner reviews, other than adverse prop walk in reverse on the 30, and the rather anemic stock single cyl. Yanmar. I sail on an inland lake, so pretty rare I'll ever find myself having a hard time bucking wind and waves trying to get home with a small diesel.
hunter 30 advice
I have sailed our Hunter 30 "Blufftopia" on Muskegon Lake (medium size inland) that connects to Lake Michigan. I see some beginning issues with Mast compression but have been assured by my boatyard ( Torrensen Marine... one of the best on the great lakes let alone the country) that it is not a critical item for repair yet and I should monitor the steel I beam under it for issues. One piece of advice to look for they said was the cabin bulkhead in the doorway area begins to sag so the sliding door doesn't operate properly. Also look for softening/ crackleing/ popping in the deck near the mast area. As far as the underpowered issue with the yanmar, I've never had any trouble with the amount of power I need but have no tice/ current issues to deal with. ( A consideration if you plan to cruise later with this boat. I purchased my boat without a survey ( not usually a good idea ) but had a look-over by friends ( one a Torrensen) so i felt confident. My purchase price ( 9000.00) wasn't a small but not a huge sum so I couldn't warrent a full survey ( at about 700.00). Others would argue this was stupid and they would probably be right, but I had the good fortune to be well connected with a very reputable boatyard. Any other questions, feel free. Pray for Wind, Lugeman
I have sailed our Hunter 30 "Blufftopia" on Muskegon Lake (medium size inland) that connects to Lake Michigan. I see some beginning issues with Mast compression but have been assured by my boatyard ( Torrensen Marine... one of the best on the great lakes let alone the country) that it is not a critical item for repair yet and I should monitor the steel I beam under it for issues. One piece of advice to look for they said was the cabin bulkhead in the doorway area begins to sag so the sliding door doesn't operate properly. Also look for softening/ crackleing/ popping in the deck near the mast area. As far as the underpowered issue with the yanmar, I've never had any trouble with the amount of power I need but have no tice/ current issues to deal with. ( A consideration if you plan to cruise later with this boat. I purchased my boat without a survey ( not usually a good idea ) but had a look-over by friends ( one a Torrensen) so i felt confident. My purchase price ( 9000.00) wasn't a small but not a huge sum so I couldn't warrent a full survey ( at about 700.00). Others would argue this was stupid and they would probably be right, but I had the good fortune to be well connected with a very reputable boatyard. Any other questions, feel free. Pray for Wind, Lugeman
Hunter 30 Compression Post
The Hunter 30 is a nice boat. Check the metal I beam and post for rust. It is in the bilge. Mine had flaking rust. I scraped and sanded (good for the back) and coated it with zink chromate primer and several coats of enamel paint. I have also replaced all of the through hull gate valves and installed dripless packing in the stuffing box. I have a dry bilge, which should go a long way to reducing compression post rust. Look closely for the items the previous people have talked about, like rust on the bilge area compression post, dark or soft areas that are signs of rot in the wood compression post in the cabin (use a thin screwdriver as a probe,) a slightly sagging cabin top, a cabin top that has some motion or softness when you stomp on it from outside. While you are at it, look at the ports and hatches for signs of leaking. Lastly, when you find a boat that looks like a good candidate, have a reputable surveyor check it out. You will need a survey to get insurance, anyway. Enjoy your search.
The Hunter 30 is a nice boat. Check the metal I beam and post for rust. It is in the bilge. Mine had flaking rust. I scraped and sanded (good for the back) and coated it with zink chromate primer and several coats of enamel paint. I have also replaced all of the through hull gate valves and installed dripless packing in the stuffing box. I have a dry bilge, which should go a long way to reducing compression post rust. Look closely for the items the previous people have talked about, like rust on the bilge area compression post, dark or soft areas that are signs of rot in the wood compression post in the cabin (use a thin screwdriver as a probe,) a slightly sagging cabin top, a cabin top that has some motion or softness when you stomp on it from outside. While you are at it, look at the ports and hatches for signs of leaking. Lastly, when you find a boat that looks like a good candidate, have a reputable surveyor check it out. You will need a survey to get insurance, anyway. Enjoy your search.
Torreson
Lugeman, one of my co-workers migrated down here from Mich. about four years ago. Chuck used to keep his Cal 25 at Torreson's and has very good things to say about them. They sound like a top-notch yard. I keep my eye on their web site looking for future boat prospects. Thanks everyone for the help. Keep the suggestions coming if there are more out there.
Lugeman, one of my co-workers migrated down here from Mich. about four years ago. Chuck used to keep his Cal 25 at Torreson's and has very good things to say about them. They sound like a top-notch yard. I keep my eye on their web site looking for future boat prospects. Thanks everyone for the help. Keep the suggestions coming if there are more out there.
mast sag
In addition to my other comment, the reason this happens is hunter put plywood under the mast step. Over the years water get in there and rots. I took out the plywood. Also ran all wiring inside the mast and not thru the deck..
In addition to my other comment, the reason this happens is hunter put plywood under the mast step. Over the years water get in there and rots. I took out the plywood. Also ran all wiring inside the mast and not thru the deck..
Three places
Most of the replies below have discussed places to look for the problem with mast compression. In summary, there are three places to look and any or all of them can contribute to the problem. First is the iron I-beam in the bilge that forms the foundation for the mast. If it rusts away the weight of the mast will conpress it over time. If your cabin sole is depressed around the bottom of the compression post, you need to replace the I-beam. Seconly is the compression post itself. If water has enterd from above, the post rots and looses strength. Look in the archives for descriptions of replacing the post. Some have used wood but I recall one repair made with a stainless steel post. Thirdly, the plywood that was put into the deck under the mast step often gets wet and rots away. You can drill into the deck and sample the wood. If this is your problem, you can cut away the top layer of the deck, dig out the wood and replace it with any number of things and then glass the deck section back in place. Easier said than done.
Most of the replies below have discussed places to look for the problem with mast compression. In summary, there are three places to look and any or all of them can contribute to the problem. First is the iron I-beam in the bilge that forms the foundation for the mast. If it rusts away the weight of the mast will conpress it over time. If your cabin sole is depressed around the bottom of the compression post, you need to replace the I-beam. Seconly is the compression post itself. If water has enterd from above, the post rots and looses strength. Look in the archives for descriptions of replacing the post. Some have used wood but I recall one repair made with a stainless steel post. Thirdly, the plywood that was put into the deck under the mast step often gets wet and rots away. You can drill into the deck and sample the wood. If this is your problem, you can cut away the top layer of the deck, dig out the wood and replace it with any number of things and then glass the deck section back in place. Easier said than done.
Mast sag
I have a 78 Hunter 30. Had the problem, noticed an indentation of about 1/2" around the mast base. Did the following, (I prob went further with this than I had to, but I plan to keep the boat and didn't want to have to address this again. Then of course when I got into it, I seen a few things I wanted to change.) Took the mast down and cut the deck around the raised T shaped area down to the cabin top liner. Removed the plywood. Layed the area back up with Glass and topped it off with Gel coat. Painted over to match the deck. I remade the IBeam in the bilge with one made out of Stainless. Locked it down with epoxy. I pulled the pressure post and after inspection, flipped it 180 to get a new grip on all the screw holes for the teak covers. They were all forced in a downward direction due to the settling. Checked for any rot at the base. I took the mast step to a metal shop and had them weld shut the square cutout in the middle. Thats a trap for water when in turn gets into the deck. Also welded a 1" conduit upright for wiring. All wiring is now inside the mast not coming out the side and into the top of the deck. Water gets under the step now it won't matter, nothing it can damage. The plywood on the original was put in to save money. Was not a smart idea. I very happy with the results on this. Something I won't have to worry about again..
I have a 78 Hunter 30. Had the problem, noticed an indentation of about 1/2" around the mast base. Did the following, (I prob went further with this than I had to, but I plan to keep the boat and didn't want to have to address this again. Then of course when I got into it, I seen a few things I wanted to change.) Took the mast down and cut the deck around the raised T shaped area down to the cabin top liner. Removed the plywood. Layed the area back up with Glass and topped it off with Gel coat. Painted over to match the deck. I remade the IBeam in the bilge with one made out of Stainless. Locked it down with epoxy. I pulled the pressure post and after inspection, flipped it 180 to get a new grip on all the screw holes for the teak covers. They were all forced in a downward direction due to the settling. Checked for any rot at the base. I took the mast step to a metal shop and had them weld shut the square cutout in the middle. Thats a trap for water when in turn gets into the deck. Also welded a 1" conduit upright for wiring. All wiring is now inside the mast not coming out the side and into the top of the deck. Water gets under the step now it won't matter, nothing it can damage. The plywood on the original was put in to save money. Was not a smart idea. I very happy with the results on this. Something I won't have to worry about again..
Hmmm, I guess they learn w/ time
I wasn't aware of the design of the mast step having a cut-out. You'd think that would have been a real red light for the designers, that and a steel I-beam in a bilge. Assuming I find one which has not had the sag issue "yet" one smart move would appear to be epoxy-coating the I-beam. Does there seem to be any consensus whether this has been more an issue with salt water or freshwater boats?
I wasn't aware of the design of the mast step having a cut-out. You'd think that would have been a real red light for the designers, that and a steel I-beam in a bilge. Assuming I find one which has not had the sag issue "yet" one smart move would appear to be epoxy-coating the I-beam. Does there seem to be any consensus whether this has been more an issue with salt water or freshwater boats?
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