Cheek blocks?

[ScottySailor]

I have an 84 Hunter 31 it has these cheek blocks at the stern I was thinking you run the jib sheets astern from the winch then forward through the jib tracks to the jib?
It seems like it makes the sheets go a smoother route, is this correct as my neighbor says they are for a spinnaker?
See pics and advise.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Allan12210]

I have an 84 Hunter 31 it has these cheek blocks at the stern I was thinking you run the jib sheets astern from the winch then forward through the jib tracks to the jib?
It seems like it makes the sheets go a smoother route, is this correct as my neighbor says they are for a spinnaker?
See pics and advise.
Thanks in advance. View attachment 184271View attachment 184272View attachment 184273

Scott,

They are turning blocks for your jib sheets. It gives you a fair lead from the sail to the winch via the genoa cars on the track.

Allan

 

[Stu Jackson]

Yes, you are right.

Like this: (the knot in the jib sheet is to keep it in the cheek block, the other line is my midships spring line on the winch, you can see the jib sheet from the cheek block on the starboard winch)

 

[ScottySailor]

Yes, you are right.

Like this: (the knot in the jib sheet is to keep it in the cheek block, the other line is my midships spring line on the winch, you can see the jib sheet from the cheek block on the starboard winch)
View attachment 184274

Awesome thanks

 

[kloudie1]

But they can also be used for spinnaker sheets

 

[ScottySailor]

But they can also be used for spinnaker sheets

And I’m assuming because I’m not there yet, when using the spinnaker then no jib?

 

[kappykaplan]

when using the spinnaker then no jib?

Correct!

 

[shemandr]

I've seen boats rigged with an additional block, usually standing, on the rear of the jib track to provide a fair lead to the winch - which is very important. If the lead is wrong you can have overlaps which vary from nuisance to disaster. The extra track standing block can free the rear turning block for spinnaker sheets. It is a royal PITA to re-reave sheets for a spinnaker set - no stopper knots please! And as bad to re-run for re-hoist of the jib. Cruising maybe OK, racing very awkward and slow.
There's a reason the masthead boats of the '70's, with their multiple jibs and jib changes, and multiple spinnakers became obsolete. Those of you sailing those GOB's are stuck with the legacy that was was, at best, user unfriendly.

 

[Joe]

Looking at your pics it appears the standard 1" genoa track extends almost all the way aft... which means you can mount a set of blocks for spinnaker sheets on that part of the track. You'd want the block to have a "stand up spring". to hold the block and sheet steady.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

On my 34 these blocks are used only for the jib sheets. When I fly the A-sym, I use snatch blocks attached to the toe-rail with a shackle. 2 reasons: 1) the spinnaker sheets are run outside of the lifelines with the proper angle of the block not creating friction on the sheet, and 2) If need be the jib can be deployed without having to re-run the sheets through the blocks.

 

[ScottySailor]

Scott,

They are turning blocks for your jib sheets. It gives you a fair lead from the sail to the winch via the genoa cars on the track.

Allan

Where do you normally set up your genoa cars my track has numbers on it.
Is there a rule of thumb?

 

[Allan12210]

Where do you normally set up your genoa cars my track has numbers on it.
Is there a rule of thumb?

It depends on the wind strength, sail size (furled or not). I typically look at the angle from the car to the sail clew. Try to bisect the sail angle between the foot and the leech. By furling, if you leave the car alone it in effect changes the angle to pull back more on the sail, flattening it and allowing the top to twist off. Good when the wind really pipes up. In extremely light air, move the car forward to give more belly to the sail, powering it up. Easier to punch through the swells.