I just purchased a Hunter 30. I am trying to develop a checklist of items that need to be done when I leave the boat for a week or two or three. The previous owner advised closing two seacocks - raw water intakes for the engine and head. But he didn't routinely close the sink drain seacocks (below the waterline). He left the key to the engine on the handle for the raw water intake so he would remember to open it the next time before starting the engine. What are thoughts on closing the seacocks every time? What, with the boat tied to the dock, would cause water to come up thru those seacocks? I would think a bigger risk would be failure of the connection at the thru-hull fitting, which is not going to be helped by having the seacocks closed. Obviously, I know I need to turn off DC power and leave the battery charger on. Secure lines. Lock the boat. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
Checklist for Leaving the Boat
- Thread starter Sherry
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close them all
personally, i close all of the seacocks and discommect all power. if your batteries have good charge it isn't really important to leave the battery charger on. also, i dry out the ice chest, leaving it in the open position. the engine being a big hunk of metal will create it's own moisture due to condensation caused by temperature variations. it is good to make sure that there is circulation of fresh air in the engine compartment by opening the access. this will help keep the corrosion at bay. if you have slept on the boat, lift the cushions in the berth and feel underneath for moisture. if it is damp, prop up the cushions to dry. close all the curtians and covers to protect the interior from uv. sounds like a lot but it only takes a few minutes and your boat will be happy.
personally, i close all of the seacocks and discommect all power. if your batteries have good charge it isn't really important to leave the battery charger on. also, i dry out the ice chest, leaving it in the open position. the engine being a big hunk of metal will create it's own moisture due to condensation caused by temperature variations. it is good to make sure that there is circulation of fresh air in the engine compartment by opening the access. this will help keep the corrosion at bay. if you have slept on the boat, lift the cushions in the berth and feel underneath for moisture. if it is damp, prop up the cushions to dry. close all the curtians and covers to protect the interior from uv. sounds like a lot but it only takes a few minutes and your boat will be happy.
Close all seacocks when you're gone
I always close all the seacocks when I'm not on the boat, even the sink drain. That's my procedure always. Easy to remember. It's not the seacock nor the thru hull that commonly fails. It's the hoses that sink your boat. -Buddy Richardson Cowardly Lion H28
I always close all the seacocks when I'm not on the boat, even the sink drain. That's my procedure always. Easy to remember. It's not the seacock nor the thru hull that commonly fails. It's the hoses that sink your boat. -Buddy Richardson Cowardly Lion H28
Develop a standard routine
On my '79 Hunter 30' I have delevoped a standard routine. My wife "allows" me to close the boat. I start with closing all through-hulls. The engine key is kept next to the valve to open the raw water to the engine. Next, I touch every knob on the ports and hatchs to check for tension. The ice chest has been drained and lid proped open. I actviate the bilge pump to pump down any water and to make sure it works. I then set the switches to "off" except for bilge pump. I then depressure the fresh water system and use this water to flush the head. Close and lock the hatch. Set the lines, and jump off the boat. The halyards and other lines have been pulled back from the mast with a bungee cord so they do not bang against the mast from the wind. The last thing is to detach the electric from the finger pier by unplugging. I leave the other end plugged into the boat for ease of reconnecting when I return the following Friday night. Turn arround and do a final check on the boat's position at the dock, and the lines, and go home. If you repeat the same proceedure time and again it will go quickly and become a routine. I have two solar fans, one set on exhaust and one on input to ciculate air when the boat is closed. The bimini is always closed with a cover. It is less expensive to replace the bimini cover than the bimini. The dodger has the windows and sides removed and stored for the same reason. Good luck with your 30'
On my '79 Hunter 30' I have delevoped a standard routine. My wife "allows" me to close the boat. I start with closing all through-hulls. The engine key is kept next to the valve to open the raw water to the engine. Next, I touch every knob on the ports and hatchs to check for tension. The ice chest has been drained and lid proped open. I actviate the bilge pump to pump down any water and to make sure it works. I then set the switches to "off" except for bilge pump. I then depressure the fresh water system and use this water to flush the head. Close and lock the hatch. Set the lines, and jump off the boat. The halyards and other lines have been pulled back from the mast with a bungee cord so they do not bang against the mast from the wind. The last thing is to detach the electric from the finger pier by unplugging. I leave the other end plugged into the boat for ease of reconnecting when I return the following Friday night. Turn arround and do a final check on the boat's position at the dock, and the lines, and go home. If you repeat the same proceedure time and again it will go quickly and become a routine. I have two solar fans, one set on exhaust and one on input to ciculate air when the boat is closed. The bimini is always closed with a cover. It is less expensive to replace the bimini cover than the bimini. The dodger has the windows and sides removed and stored for the same reason. Good luck with your 30'
Establish a routine
I drive past my mooring every night coming home from work and I always feel some relief when I don't see just a mast sticking out of the water! I close all seacocks, and at first, I did have a problem remembering to open the water intake when starting up. The sink drain is right next to the water intake so I close both seacocks and pump some water into the sink so that when I come to the boat, the water in the sink reminds me to open the seacocks. I like the idea about putting the key on the handle, that serves the same purpose. I always keep open the 2 small ports (they are screened) over the head and vanity sink. I like the added ventilation and any rainwater that happens to enter, is contained to a fiberglass floor so it is no problem to mop up if there is any accumulation.
I drive past my mooring every night coming home from work and I always feel some relief when I don't see just a mast sticking out of the water! I close all seacocks, and at first, I did have a problem remembering to open the water intake when starting up. The sink drain is right next to the water intake so I close both seacocks and pump some water into the sink so that when I come to the boat, the water in the sink reminds me to open the seacocks. I like the idea about putting the key on the handle, that serves the same purpose. I always keep open the 2 small ports (they are screened) over the head and vanity sink. I like the added ventilation and any rainwater that happens to enter, is contained to a fiberglass floor so it is no problem to mop up if there is any accumulation.
Closing up
I basically do all the same with the three seacocks, key and ice box. I typically leave the shorepower hooked up (I know, this is one of those huge religious debates that we don't have to go to again!
) Double check all hatches since the admiral swears she closed them but typically one is always left open, double check premarked dock lines, turn batteries to off, lock hatch and take about 5 last looks before leaving.
I basically do all the same with the three seacocks, key and ice box. I typically leave the shorepower hooked up (I know, this is one of those huge religious debates that we don't have to go to again!
) Double check all hatches since the admiral swears she closed them but typically one is always left open, double check premarked dock lines, turn batteries to off, lock hatch and take about 5 last looks before leaving.Some of my tasks
Here are some of our additional tasks when we leave the boat: We close all seacocks, above and below the waterline. Yes, Buddy is right. It is often the hose that dies 1st. You don't want to sink your boat because a few dollar worth of rubber hose. By closing all the seacocks, you also get to check how smooth and clean the valve is. By working it often, you are keeping it clean of growth, so when you do "need" to close it, you can. We close the seacocks above the waterline because if for some reason, especially during the winter, the cockpit drain holes gets plugged, or after a snow storm, the extra weight on the boat could lower the boat so the above waterline are now below the waterline. glug...glug.... We turn off all DC power at the panel, and we plug in the power cord overnight to top off the battries, and upon the next visit to the boat, usually the next day or so since we live only about 10 minutes away from the marina, we unplug the dock power cord, not just click the switch to off. Just to make sure our marina neighbors are not using our zinc. We clean out my fridge, leave the lids open to air it out. Otherwise, it will smell pretty musty. If we are going to be away for an extended period, or if it is during the winter, we leave the doors open for all lockers, cubby holes, etc, to make sure they get aired. This also will reduce mold growth. Some other extra quick and easy tasks: We cover my man-overboard-pole's float (the orange sausage portion) with some sunbrella material, or even just a rag. We've discovered that if not covered, the orange portion will deteriote in the sun over a few years, resulting in cracks, leaks, then die, and money to buy a new one. Same thing applys to my lifesling. The poly line in the bag will also die in the sun. We make sure only the nylon line shows between the deck cleat and the bag. Also, make sure you don't have any open ports big enough for little critters to get in. Too often, these little furry critters will make their home in your 2nd home, have babies, eat your furniture, create new locations for head and holding tanks. Nasty stuff. I am sure there are many other tasks for the checklist. Have fun sailing.
Here are some of our additional tasks when we leave the boat: We close all seacocks, above and below the waterline. Yes, Buddy is right. It is often the hose that dies 1st. You don't want to sink your boat because a few dollar worth of rubber hose. By closing all the seacocks, you also get to check how smooth and clean the valve is. By working it often, you are keeping it clean of growth, so when you do "need" to close it, you can. We close the seacocks above the waterline because if for some reason, especially during the winter, the cockpit drain holes gets plugged, or after a snow storm, the extra weight on the boat could lower the boat so the above waterline are now below the waterline. glug...glug.... We turn off all DC power at the panel, and we plug in the power cord overnight to top off the battries, and upon the next visit to the boat, usually the next day or so since we live only about 10 minutes away from the marina, we unplug the dock power cord, not just click the switch to off. Just to make sure our marina neighbors are not using our zinc. We clean out my fridge, leave the lids open to air it out. Otherwise, it will smell pretty musty. If we are going to be away for an extended period, or if it is during the winter, we leave the doors open for all lockers, cubby holes, etc, to make sure they get aired. This also will reduce mold growth. Some other extra quick and easy tasks: We cover my man-overboard-pole's float (the orange sausage portion) with some sunbrella material, or even just a rag. We've discovered that if not covered, the orange portion will deteriote in the sun over a few years, resulting in cracks, leaks, then die, and money to buy a new one. Same thing applys to my lifesling. The poly line in the bag will also die in the sun. We make sure only the nylon line shows between the deck cleat and the bag. Also, make sure you don't have any open ports big enough for little critters to get in. Too often, these little furry critters will make their home in your 2nd home, have babies, eat your furniture, create new locations for head and holding tanks. Nasty stuff. I am sure there are many other tasks for the checklist. Have fun sailing.
More Leaving the Boat Checklist
On my H23, I raise the motor mount to the top position and tilt the motor forward. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the fuel in the line back into the tank. Raise the rudder out of the water and tie it off. Tie tiller to the amidships position and put the cover on it. Cover on sails, too. External cover over the cockpit compass. Detach and stow equipment brought topsides (autotiller, boat hook/pole, life jackets..etc). Remove food and drinks. And, a big one with me - organize and stow lines - all lines either go below or get hung up or tucked inside a sail cover or some combination there of. I want them to dry and minimize UV exposure. No beautiful Flemish coils that hold rainwater, grow mold and stain the topsides. Someone in a drier environment who visits their boat very frequently might disagree with my last comment. Ditto the other's comments on power and locks.
On my H23, I raise the motor mount to the top position and tilt the motor forward. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the fuel in the line back into the tank. Raise the rudder out of the water and tie it off. Tie tiller to the amidships position and put the cover on it. Cover on sails, too. External cover over the cockpit compass. Detach and stow equipment brought topsides (autotiller, boat hook/pole, life jackets..etc). Remove food and drinks. And, a big one with me - organize and stow lines - all lines either go below or get hung up or tucked inside a sail cover or some combination there of. I want them to dry and minimize UV exposure. No beautiful Flemish coils that hold rainwater, grow mold and stain the topsides. Someone in a drier environment who visits their boat very frequently might disagree with my last comment. Ditto the other's comments on power and locks.
Detach fuel line
Mike - I noticed that you detach the fuel line from your outboard - whats the reasoning behind this. Is it ok to leave the fuel line attached to the OB?
Mike - I noticed that you detach the fuel line from your outboard - whats the reasoning behind this. Is it ok to leave the fuel line attached to the OB?
Sherry: a few things to add: loosen the clew outhaul slightly Loosten the Jib Halyard slightly Tighten the steering wheel lock to prevent wheel movement and damage to rudder Flush fresh thru the head to clear the toilet discharge line, and also flush vinegar thru IAW Peggy Hall's advice when laying up for a week or more. Remove winch handle from cabin and stow below Be sure you have at least three wraps of the jib sheets around a furled Jib; and ensure the jib sheets are locked so the jib can't come unfurled in heavy wind Battery charger on (AC panel) if you stay attached to Shore Power Remove Chip from chart plotter (if installed), and store in cabin Remove knotmeter sensor (if installed) and restore plug securely Check that all opening ports and hatches are closed and locked Remember to change your getting Underway Preps Checklist to reverse these actions where ncessary
more tips
Thinking like a pilot, a written check-list is more reliable than the human memory....especially at the start of a season. Start at one end of the boat, and work your way back. Develop a system that works for you. Besides closing the sea-cocks, regularly tighten all hose clamps. Heat and vibration can loosen them and could also sink your boat. I cut up pieces of a car winshield sun reflector. I place them on the inside of hatches and ports facing the sun with the reflective side out. It has dropped the inside temperature about 8 degrees. I also close the water tanks supply cocks. I once had a faucet develop a drip that filled the sink while I was away. A tap can't drip any more than what is in the supply line when shut off at the source. Besides opening the frige, I like to keep an open box of baking soda in there to help absorb moisture. Although you can dry the cooler by wiping it down, moisture will remain on the outer sides of the ice box, as it takes longer to reach cabin temperature after shutting off. I would like to see a posting of your final check-list, as I am sure there are more good ideas yet to come.
Thinking like a pilot, a written check-list is more reliable than the human memory....especially at the start of a season. Start at one end of the boat, and work your way back. Develop a system that works for you. Besides closing the sea-cocks, regularly tighten all hose clamps. Heat and vibration can loosen them and could also sink your boat. I cut up pieces of a car winshield sun reflector. I place them on the inside of hatches and ports facing the sun with the reflective side out. It has dropped the inside temperature about 8 degrees. I also close the water tanks supply cocks. I once had a faucet develop a drip that filled the sink while I was away. A tap can't drip any more than what is in the supply line when shut off at the source. Besides opening the frige, I like to keep an open box of baking soda in there to help absorb moisture. Although you can dry the cooler by wiping it down, moisture will remain on the outer sides of the ice box, as it takes longer to reach cabin temperature after shutting off. I would like to see a posting of your final check-list, as I am sure there are more good ideas yet to come.
Three more...
A very comprehensive list so far except for closing the propane tank valve, hauling up the swim ladder and checking the engine compartment for any leaks.
A very comprehensive list so far except for closing the propane tank valve, hauling up the swim ladder and checking the engine compartment for any leaks.
As Ron Suggests you are gonna have to
figure out which of these measures are most appropriate for your situation. For me, our boats stay in the water year round & no chance of anything freezing. I do: 1. Keep shorepower plugged in, if something does happen the battery charger ought to keep the bilge pump running a little longer till maybe a dockmate sees it & calls you. (Make friends with dockmates, especcially the old guys like me that are retired & spend a lot of time on the boat during the week). Once had a dockmate tell me someone hit my transom, gave me the boat name & offered to be a witness if needed. I probably wouldn't have noticed the damage till the next time I waxed. My marina has so much electrical current in the water I don't think it would matter, we just freshen the zincs every 3 months. 2.I only pull the knotmeter to clean it (salt water) used to be every 6 months (starts to stick) lately I've been painting the paddle wheel with transducer paint & it'll go about a year before I need to pull. Also, it does get easier to leave the boat alone after a while, it is very hard to walk away without feeling uneasy from your new pride & joy.
figure out which of these measures are most appropriate for your situation. For me, our boats stay in the water year round & no chance of anything freezing. I do: 1. Keep shorepower plugged in, if something does happen the battery charger ought to keep the bilge pump running a little longer till maybe a dockmate sees it & calls you. (Make friends with dockmates, especcially the old guys like me that are retired & spend a lot of time on the boat during the week). Once had a dockmate tell me someone hit my transom, gave me the boat name & offered to be a witness if needed. I probably wouldn't have noticed the damage till the next time I waxed. My marina has so much electrical current in the water I don't think it would matter, we just freshen the zincs every 3 months. 2.I only pull the knotmeter to clean it (salt water) used to be every 6 months (starts to stick) lately I've been painting the paddle wheel with transducer paint & it'll go about a year before I need to pull. Also, it does get easier to leave the boat alone after a while, it is very hard to walk away without feeling uneasy from your new pride & joy.
Fuel Line
Hey Jack - good question about stowing the fuel line. It's something I've always done, I guess because it seems like a temporary setup and I want to protect it from UV. I'm going to rethink this practice - emptying the line is a messy job. As I'm writing this, the Admiral reminds me that we've had leaky fuel lines from time to time and disconnecting them stopped them from self-siphoning/leaking. Part of the H23 recommisioning was replacing the fuel line and connectors and it absolutely does not leak. I'm going to leave it attached next time. What do you other outboarders do?
Hey Jack - good question about stowing the fuel line. It's something I've always done, I guess because it seems like a temporary setup and I want to protect it from UV. I'm going to rethink this practice - emptying the line is a messy job. As I'm writing this, the Admiral reminds me that we've had leaky fuel lines from time to time and disconnecting them stopped them from self-siphoning/leaking. Part of the H23 recommisioning was replacing the fuel line and connectors and it absolutely does not leak. I'm going to leave it attached next time. What do you other outboarders do?
Fuel line on my dinghy's outboard
Here's something I do on the dinghy's outboard motor, and I assume the same logic would apply to to any outboard. When I am done for the weekend, and don't know when I will use the outboard again, I unplug the fuel line and run the motor until it it runs dry and dies. This ensures there's no more fuel in the engine. If for some reason I don't use the outboard for quite a while and there's still old stale gas in there, the engine may be very hard to start. For the same reason, the fuel line can be drained also.
Here's something I do on the dinghy's outboard motor, and I assume the same logic would apply to to any outboard. When I am done for the weekend, and don't know when I will use the outboard again, I unplug the fuel line and run the motor until it it runs dry and dies. This ensures there's no more fuel in the engine. If for some reason I don't use the outboard for quite a while and there's still old stale gas in there, the engine may be very hard to start. For the same reason, the fuel line can be drained also.
Sherry; Boats in colder waters may go for months w/o cleaning the knotmeter paddle wheel. But in the Chesapeake Bay, and I suspect in any other warm waters it can get fouled by critters in just a week. We decided to remove the sensor each time we come into port. Doesn't reduce the number of changes, but does drastically reduce the number of paddle wheel cleanings.
Insurance
If you have a roller furled headsail, a couple of wraps with a short length of 1/4" line, tied off in a square knot, is real cheap insurance against what can otherwise happen if the furling line works loose. Cleated sheets won't stop the sail from unfurling. I've seen more than one ruined foresail flapping in the breeze after a storm.
If you have a roller furled headsail, a couple of wraps with a short length of 1/4" line, tied off in a square knot, is real cheap insurance against what can otherwise happen if the furling line works loose. Cleated sheets won't stop the sail from unfurling. I've seen more than one ruined foresail flapping in the breeze after a storm.
"Lock" the furling drum
Great advice about the multiple wraps of the sheet around the furler to keep the Genny from upwrapping. But here is one better. On many units, such as the Harkens, there is a hole in the outside drum that lines up with a hole in the inside (stator). Go to the hardware store and buy a locking pin (the type that might be used on hitch pins for a receiving hitch, sort of like a long clevis pin with an outside guard to hold it in place) and tie it to the bow pulpit with a short lanyard. Keep it stored fastened around the bow pulpit near the furling drum while sailing. But when you leave the boat put the pin through the matching holes in the furling drum. Now your drum is really secure, and even if the furling line comes undone the sail can not unwrap. That, and having all the seacocks closed, gave me much peace of mind when leaving the boat. Steve Christensen
Great advice about the multiple wraps of the sheet around the furler to keep the Genny from upwrapping. But here is one better. On many units, such as the Harkens, there is a hole in the outside drum that lines up with a hole in the inside (stator). Go to the hardware store and buy a locking pin (the type that might be used on hitch pins for a receiving hitch, sort of like a long clevis pin with an outside guard to hold it in place) and tie it to the bow pulpit with a short lanyard. Keep it stored fastened around the bow pulpit near the furling drum while sailing. But when you leave the boat put the pin through the matching holes in the furling drum. Now your drum is really secure, and even if the furling line comes undone the sail can not unwrap. That, and having all the seacocks closed, gave me much peace of mind when leaving the boat. Steve Christensen
more -fuel line
I used the same method as JC, but I also reconnected the fuel line to prevent spiders and other crud from entering the engine intake and fuel line connector
I used the same method as JC, but I also reconnected the fuel line to prevent spiders and other crud from entering the engine intake and fuel line connector
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