When I went down to check the boat this morning (It was blowing 50 Kts), several guys were staring forlornly at a sail boat a few slips from ours. Apparently, a clamp on the galley sink drain burst last night and the through hull was not closed. Fortunately, someone had gone down to the docks to check his lines at 11:30 last night and noticed the boat in serious distress. By the time they got the big pumps aboard it was moments from sinking. A real ugly mess below. The engine was flooded and there was oil everywhere. Not a pretty sight. The owners explanation was he rarely closed that through hull "because it was hard to get at."
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and - double clamp all the hose/drain connections.
This is one of the things that a good surveyor looks for right off the bat.
This is one of the things that a good surveyor looks for right off the bat.
I always close my thru hulls
I always close every thru hull on my boat everytime I leave. I have all of my hoses double clamped. There is one or two other sailboats in my Marina that do the same thing. Eventually one of the others will go down. I'm just waiting. Then I can get some practice salvaging one. Tim Welsh Hunter 34 S/V Cabo Wabo P.S. What would your insurance company say if they knew you didn't close your thru hulls?
I always close every thru hull on my boat everytime I leave. I have all of my hoses double clamped. There is one or two other sailboats in my Marina that do the same thing. Eventually one of the others will go down. I'm just waiting. Then I can get some practice salvaging one. Tim Welsh Hunter 34 S/V Cabo Wabo P.S. What would your insurance company say if they knew you didn't close your thru hulls?
There was a long discussion about rigging and
when to replace it. How about hose clamps, bilge pumps, seacocks? A broken rig is a major inconvience but a failed through hull is deadly. There is one thing that I don't understand however. When I winterize my boat I close the seacock for the head, loosen the hose clamps and work very hard to remove the hose from the barb. I don't understand how a failed clamp can cause the hose to come away from the fitting.
when to replace it. How about hose clamps, bilge pumps, seacocks? A broken rig is a major inconvience but a failed through hull is deadly. There is one thing that I don't understand however. When I winterize my boat I close the seacock for the head, loosen the hose clamps and work very hard to remove the hose from the barb. I don't understand how a failed clamp can cause the hose to come away from the fitting.
There have been cases of freezing
I have heard of the water in the hose actually freezing and pushing the hose up off of the thru hull fitting. I guess that could happen to a clamp that was too loose also. Some hoses dont fit on the thru hull fittings like they should either. Tim Welsh
I have heard of the water in the hose actually freezing and pushing the hose up off of the thru hull fitting. I guess that could happen to a clamp that was too loose also. Some hoses dont fit on the thru hull fittings like they should either. Tim Welsh
It may be OK to leave the valve open but
is not ok not to periodically inspect it. A visual check of the clamps and drain hose will reveal any weaknesses. Exercising the the valve will alert to corrosion or malfunction. On the other hand I close the head intake valve all the time as I do not trust the boat to a seal or washer.
is not ok not to periodically inspect it. A visual check of the clamps and drain hose will reveal any weaknesses. Exercising the the valve will alert to corrosion or malfunction. On the other hand I close the head intake valve all the time as I do not trust the boat to a seal or washer.
Has anyone here heard of
a "T-Bolt" hose clamp. I personalyl think they are great, and if my boat had any underwater thu-hulls, each and every one of them would have a t-bolt clamp. In fact, I'd be willing to say that 1 t-bolt clamp is more reliable than 2 worm-drive clamps - rather than relying on a small section of thread, the T-bolt clamp has 2 ends turned up, and as you tighten the bolt, compresses the clamp. Mcmaster carr has them in 301 (<$5 / piece) and 316 (< $8 / piece) stainless, and can be had up to 8" diameters. Look for part # 5312K45
a "T-Bolt" hose clamp. I personalyl think they are great, and if my boat had any underwater thu-hulls, each and every one of them would have a t-bolt clamp. In fact, I'd be willing to say that 1 t-bolt clamp is more reliable than 2 worm-drive clamps - rather than relying on a small section of thread, the T-bolt clamp has 2 ends turned up, and as you tighten the bolt, compresses the clamp. Mcmaster carr has them in 301 (<$5 / piece) and 316 (< $8 / piece) stainless, and can be had up to 8" diameters. Look for part # 5312K45
There is much discussion here concerning
the hose clamps but matching hose and barb size is vital . If the sizes match then when they are assembled in a low pressure system there will be almost no leakage without a clamp. The barbs MUST be long enough to permit two clamps that bear fully on the barb. A short barb with two clamps may have one clamp overhanging the end of the barb and cutting the hose. I can't imagine a hose coming off a through hull barb if it has been cut to a proper length, is the correct size, has plenty of slack in it and is less than fifty years old. The most likely time for a hose to come loose is while the engine is running and all of the vibration is shaking the connections, not while the boat is sitting still with no strains on anything. Before anyone starts to talk about the water pressure below the waterline just remember that it is only 1/2 psi per foot. On a 1 inch hose two feet below the water line that would ammount to about one pound force trying to push the hose off the barb.
the hose clamps but matching hose and barb size is vital . If the sizes match then when they are assembled in a low pressure system there will be almost no leakage without a clamp. The barbs MUST be long enough to permit two clamps that bear fully on the barb. A short barb with two clamps may have one clamp overhanging the end of the barb and cutting the hose. I can't imagine a hose coming off a through hull barb if it has been cut to a proper length, is the correct size, has plenty of slack in it and is less than fifty years old. The most likely time for a hose to come loose is while the engine is running and all of the vibration is shaking the connections, not while the boat is sitting still with no strains on anything. Before anyone starts to talk about the water pressure below the waterline just remember that it is only 1/2 psi per foot. On a 1 inch hose two feet below the water line that would ammount to about one pound force trying to push the hose off the barb.
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