Chartplotter Connector

[Brian D]

Easier said than done. One will need a pin extractor to remove and seat pins 3-7 (actually it is a 7 pin connector, my error). If the OP has an extractor and none of the pins break during extraction, then all is good. Else, he will need a new cable.

As for the +12/-12 volts, then yes, one would assume the -12 is ground while in a boat. However, if one is using just a battery, there is no ground so to speak. It is the +12v (or positive) pole and the -12v (or negative) pole that we are talking about. Even in a boat the -12v pole of the battery is connected to the boat's "ground" (aka zero volt reference). Basically, the sum of the voltage drops across each component of the circuit is equal to the supply voltage.

 

[Hello Below]

Easier said than done. One will need a pin extractor to remove and seat pins 3-7 (actually it is a 7 pin connector, my error). If the OP has an extractor and none of the pins break during extraction, then all is good. Else, he will need a new cable.

Brian I was thinking the other end of the cable, not the connector end. Solder or better yet crimp using butt connectors the wire end of the cable (not the connector end) to the needed inputs (+12V, gnd, NMEA+, NMEA-, etc). Just as he would have to with the Raymarine cable he is looking for.
Maybe it is too early and not enough coffee out here on the West coast.

 

[Brian D]

Got it. Not sure if the OP wants to cut his cable and then correctly splice. I had thought of that but did not mention it. Good point.

 

[thetone]

Can you give me detailed instructions on how to spilce the wires?

 

[thetone]

I assume that should read PIN 1 is +12dc and PIN 2 is gnd, otherwise we have a 24VDC potential difference across the pins.


What am I missing here? It seems he has the cable that he needs. If the old Garmin connector fits the RM chartplotter and the wires to PIN 1 and PIN 2 are the power carrying wires then simply match and connect the wires that feed PINS 3 - 8 to the inputs that the Raymarine chartplotter calls for. Negate the colours of the wires.

This may be the best way for me. Can you send me some more detailed instructions?

 

[jssailem]

Thetone. It can be done, with care!

I would start at the Chartplotter end with a diagram showing the connections of the receptacle. You will need to identify each of the pins on the plug end / matching them to the wires on the other end.

You’ll be matching pin 1 to a +12 DC wire. Pin 2 may be the + wire for the depth sounder. Or whatever is appropriate. Each pin is checked for continuity to a wire at the other end of the cord. Then that wire is connected to a sensor.

One step at a time progress.

 

[Hello Below]

This may be the best way for me. Can you send me some more detailed instructions?

Thetone. This is one of those jobs that would be easier to show you then tell you.
You will need the 2 manuals Brian D makes reference to. These manuals will show you the connector pinouts/cable wiring and thus provide you with the necessary information to make the transition from the Garmin to the Raymarine cable. You will need a continuity checker commonly called Volt Ohm Meter. You will need butt connectors appropriately sized and a crimping tool. Or wire strippers, soldering iron, solder, solder paste and heat shrink if you go the soldering route. I would crimp the 2 power leads (+12V and gnd wires). Then I would use these guys for the smaller NMEA wire that is commonly used.

Ideal Wire Connectors

I honestly think a buddy that has come experience with this type of project or better yet an instrument tech (marine or otherwise) would be invaluable. They will alleviate a lot of grief and you would learn from them.

 

[Capt jgw]

One last idea, we had turned down the backlight on our chart plotter once and thought the unit was toast. Once we turned up the lighting, all was good.

Had that problem with an old Raytheon radar. Dimmer control was buried three levels down in the menu and if you ran it at night and dimmed it down and didn't turn it back up before shutdown, you had to drape a blanket over the display and your head to see the screen so you could turn the back light back up. Talk about a PITA.

 

[Capt jgw]

Hopefully having it hooked up wrong hasn't zapped something. What happens if you input 12V+ on NMEA- for instance?

 

[thetone]

These bogus links.

 

[sail sfbay]

These bogus links.

What links do not work? Please advise I will happily find one that works.

 

[thetone]

tried them all. I'm disputing my purchase because I never got a confirmation email

 

[sail sfbay]

Very sorry to hear that.........are you planning to purchase a new chartplotter and cable?

By the way, assuming you are in Bristol, Wales..............my wife and I just returned to the US from Tenby, Wales after 3 years. Loved it!!

 

[thetone]

Imtin Bristol Rhode Island

 

[thetone]

looking for just the cable

 

[Brian D]

@thetone, not sure if you mentioned, but did you contact Raymarine for a cable? Fustrating, I know. Sorry you have to go through all this. But with a little patience and initiative you can improvise, adapt, and overcome this problem.

 

[thetone]

You got that right!! I wouldn't be a sailboat owner for 40 years without it!!

 

[Brian D]

Where are you with this project right now? Are you still stalled? If so, can you tell us what will be on the other end of the chart plotter. i.e. GPS (provided external GPS antenna, or your own GPS and is it NMEA-0183 output), Autopilot (which model and is it NMEA0183 input)? With that information we can determine the correct pin connections from the Raymarine.

I know the issue you are having right now is powering on. Have you attempted to use a 12vdc battery on pin 1 (+12vdc usually red wire in color) and pin 2 (battery neg terminal usually wire black in color). That will tell us if for sure your Raymarine is turning on.

It is possible you may need to do a power reset. Why, I don't know, just because it is a good troubleshooting practice. Like ctrl-alt-delete on a PC. (from the manual)
To perform a factory reset:
1. Power off the unit.
2. Press and hold CLEAR while powering up until <Erase backup
procedure> is displayed.
3. Either press CLEAR to abort Factory Reset and resume normal
Power-Up or press ENTER to continue Factory Reset.
4. Press ENTER again; the unit restarts as for a first time Power Up
with all values reset to their original factory settings.

Did the new unit come with the "Gold Chart Card"? If so, is it inserted in the card slot? I doubt the card is required for power up, but who knows?

Is it possible that the cable you have is connected to a terminal strip? If not, can you do that? This will make additional connections with out the need for splicing. That is always a good means of making electrical connections. Some may disagree, but that is fine. I just fine it easier to move connections on a terminal strip than cutting, splicing, and then heat shrinking.

Keep us up to date on your progress. We will help you get this working.