The Tohatsu 6 is a pull start.The alternator in your outboard should be able to keep the battery full enough to start the motor the next time around ...
The Tohatsu 6 is a pull start.The alternator in your outboard should be able to keep the battery full enough to start the motor the next time around ...
I believe the charger on these engines is just a coil and rectifier with little or no voltage regulation which is fine for flooded lead acid, but not so great for lithium.
would not really help much in terms of keeping batteries charged
All of these replies are 100%I would not bother, the current provided by those small outboards is mainly intended to run navigation lights in small boats. It would be useless to charge that big of a battery bank.
The tohatsu 6 hp and sailpro has a rectifier as stated by the original post.Some small outboards do not have a rectifier. As a result they output AC, not DC
I used to have a Tohatsu 6 sailpro. Wonderful little kicker. The charger was "semi-smart" in that it would not show any voltage with a voltmeter unless it detected a load. Not sure how that worked ... but when I hooked the leads to a dead battery and tested the voltage, I got closer to mid 13V levels.The tohatsu 6 hp and sailpro has a rectifier as stated by the original post.
Blame Ohm's Law.I used to have a Tohatsu 6 sailpro. Wonderful little kicker. The charger was "semi-smart" in that it would not show any voltage with a voltmeter unless it detected a load. Not sure how that worked ... but when I hooked the leads to a dead battery and tested the voltage, I got closer to mid 13V levels.
Funny.... but the multimeter serves to close the circuit even without the load present. Presumably with a very high resistance and minimal current but it is still a closed circuit. Although we pretend otherwise, the act of measuring a circuit creates a parallel alternative route for the flow of electricity. The internal resistance of the multimeter is set at a very high level relative to the circuit being tested so that the error is negligible. BUT, the multimeter would not work at all unless some current passed through the meter.Blame Ohm's Law.
Curious, were you measuring the voltage at idle or higher RPMs?Funny.... but the multimeter serves to close the circuit even without the load present. Presumably with a very high resistance and minimal current but it is still a closed circuit. Although we pretend otherwise, the act of measuring a circuit creates a parallel alternative route for the flow of electricity. The internal resistance of the multimeter is set at a very high level relative to the circuit being tested so that the error is negligible. BUT, the multimeter would not work at all unless some current passed through the meter.
Aw, come on. You're taking all the fun out of an online forum.Time to ask Tohatsu support, instead of speculating![]()
While the discussion of how a small outboard engine alternator may or may not work is helpful, it still doesn't reflect the fact that a lithium battery bank should not be charged by an unregulated alternator.house battery bank consists of 3 x 100ah lithium LiFe4 batteries in parallel.
Aww come on... Let's do it and see what happens.lithium battery bank should not be charged by an unregulated alternator.
As requested here are the pics. It needs a bit of adjustment as it was put back up to simply get it out of the way (the yard typically requires me to take it off for haulout). This was made by cutting a bimini bow in half. I added some dyneema (highlighted in blue) because I found that the stern rail assembly was racking quite a bit. the other end is attached to a car on the spinnaker T track. I waited a few weeks to replace the dyneema at the beginning of the season and the stern rail mounting bases ended up a bit bent. My outboard and inboard are connected to the inboard's fuel tank. The solar wiring enters the hull at the same spot. With different hardware it would be possible to route the wiring through the half bimini supports. Zip ties work for now. The angle of the panel is adjustable and I do plan on cutting off the excess aluminum angle. This setup can also be turned around so the panel is above the cockpitYes…please do.
Thank You,
Rod
Great! Thank you very much!As requested here are the pics. It needs a bit of adjustment as it was put back up to simply get it out of the way (the yard typically requires me to take it off for haulout). This was made by cutting a bimini bow in half. I added some dyneema (highlighted in blue) because I found that the stern rail assembly was racking quite a bit. the other end is attached to a car on the spinnaker T track. I waited a few weeks to replace the dyneema at the beginning of the season and the stern rail mounting bases ended up a bit bent. My outboard and inboard are connected to the inboard's fuel tank. The solar wiring enters the hull at the same spot. With different hardware it would be possible to route the wiring through the half bimini supports. Zip ties work for now. The angle of the panel is adjustable and I do plan on cutting off the excess aluminum angle. This setup can also be turned around so the panel is above the cockpit
I'd also suggest looking into the Great Loop Cruisers' Association. It looks like an incredible resource and a great group of people
It's a '78 O'Day 25. I have one Renogy 100w panel. It charges a a dead FLA battery in less than one summer day in ChicagoGreat! Thank you very much!
Very nice install.
What make and model boat is this?
How many watts of solar do you have?
I’ve been a member of the AGLCA for some time.
Thanks Again!
Rod