In the area I sail, many boats have all chain rodes. There are strong winds and anchorage is usually in 20-40' with hard packed bottom. I currently have 50' of 5/16th chain and 250 feet of 1" nylon rode. With that, I swing much more than other boats in an anchorage than some of the other boats that have all chain rodes.I'm considering going to an all chain rode and wonder about the effect of another 200-250lbs of weight on the bow and how that would effect my boat's sailing. The boat is a Hunter 320. Your thoughts?
- Status
Tacking at the mooring!
For what it's worth. I just bought a Hunter 30T that seems to "tack" at her mooring much more than other boats I have owned. I was at anchored in a 25K wind last week and the boat was tacking through 100 degrees and sailing all over the place! I think it's a trait of newer fin keel boats. (The old full keel ones lay quietly.) I'm thinking of getting a small "riding sail" to run up at the end of the boom while at anchor to steady the boat and resist all the tacking.? The point is that all the horsing around at anchor puts a much greater strain on the anchor. Good luck. BZ
For what it's worth. I just bought a Hunter 30T that seems to "tack" at her mooring much more than other boats I have owned. I was at anchored in a 25K wind last week and the boat was tacking through 100 degrees and sailing all over the place! I think it's a trait of newer fin keel boats. (The old full keel ones lay quietly.) I'm thinking of getting a small "riding sail" to run up at the end of the boom while at anchor to steady the boat and resist all the tacking.? The point is that all the horsing around at anchor puts a much greater strain on the anchor. Good luck. BZ
strange idea
I was out last weekend on my h34 annoyed (again) by the same problem. i've been considering more chain and a riding sail, and will probably do both. but i was also thinkin of dragging a 5' nylon rhode and loose chain (say another 5') off the stern while at anchor (chessie bay anchorages are usually around 6-9' w/a mud bottom). is this crazy?
I was out last weekend on my h34 annoyed (again) by the same problem. i've been considering more chain and a riding sail, and will probably do both. but i was also thinkin of dragging a 5' nylon rhode and loose chain (say another 5') off the stern while at anchor (chessie bay anchorages are usually around 6-9' w/a mud bottom). is this crazy?
Bow heavy
Over the course of two weekends I stored two dingys on my foredeck, an inflatable and rigid, that together weigh 175lb+, removed a secondary anchor and chain from the stern lazarette, and emptied a water tank also located at the stern. Within a few weeks I had a ring of growth at the bow that reminded me of the oil tanker in the movie Waterworld. So be sure to watch the waterline.
Over the course of two weekends I stored two dingys on my foredeck, an inflatable and rigid, that together weigh 175lb+, removed a secondary anchor and chain from the stern lazarette, and emptied a water tank also located at the stern. Within a few weeks I had a ring of growth at the bow that reminded me of the oil tanker in the movie Waterworld. So be sure to watch the waterline.
Wind Dancer
We have a 30T also. Named Wind Dancer! She had that name when we bought her used, but now we know that it is appropriate. Man! she sure does dance at anchor or mooring! She's the only gal I know who can dance all night and be ready to cruise in the morning. Let me know if the riding sail works. Steve sschwartz@clarityconnect.com
We have a 30T also. Named Wind Dancer! She had that name when we bought her used, but now we know that it is appropriate. Man! she sure does dance at anchor or mooring! She's the only gal I know who can dance all night and be ready to cruise in the morning. Let me know if the riding sail works. Steve sschwartz@clarityconnect.com
Matt's idea
Matt, That may work but I think it would be a bit light in a blow? I thought about dragging a 10 lb mushrom dinghy anchor but couldn't decide what would be heavy enough and not foul other anchors etc. on the bottem? I'ld like to know how it works also. Good luck, bzimme@blazenetme.net
Matt, That may work but I think it would be a bit light in a blow? I thought about dragging a 10 lb mushrom dinghy anchor but couldn't decide what would be heavy enough and not foul other anchors etc. on the bottem? I'ld like to know how it works also. Good luck, bzimme@blazenetme.net
HERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE TO CONSIDER...
I have 50' of chain on 250' of rope on my P42. My 40 pound Danforth held during the night even though we bounced around. The next morning the wind piped up to gale force and the combination of wind and wave action kept my anchor skipping. After discussing my situation with others I have decided to increase my chain to 120' rather than all chain. Then place a 20 pound down rigger's lead ball on the rope part and let it slide down with a tether to where it attaches to the chain. I am told that this will hold in just about any situation. The lead ball makes a huge difference. In some places they call it a sleeping pill. Terry
I have 50' of chain on 250' of rope on my P42. My 40 pound Danforth held during the night even though we bounced around. The next morning the wind piped up to gale force and the combination of wind and wave action kept my anchor skipping. After discussing my situation with others I have decided to increase my chain to 120' rather than all chain. Then place a 20 pound down rigger's lead ball on the rope part and let it slide down with a tether to where it attaches to the chain. I am told that this will hold in just about any situation. The lead ball makes a huge difference. In some places they call it a sleeping pill. Terry
Finer points of rope-tailed chain rodes
Careful analysis of the various factors going into the choice between all-rope, all-chain and mixed anchor rodes has led many a sailor, including myself, to the conclusion that a rope-tailed chain rode indeed combines the best of both worlds, especially for sailors anchoring mostly at relatively similar depths. Two caveats are in order: (1) in anything but soft mud, try to keep the chain/rope splice clear off the bottom; and (2) when using a kellet (Terry's "sleeping pill") make sure the kellet slides well past the splice (i.e. onto the chain part of the rode). The reason is CHAFE. Those who regularly dive on their anchor rode will have observed how in relatively mild wind and wave conditions the same section of rode tends to get lifted off the sea bottom and dropped again endlessly. Having a kellet ride on the rope part of the rode, let alone sit on the splice, creates further risk of chafe. Since a direct rope/chain splice exposes the individual rope strands to extra chafe one should frequently inspect such splices and redo them, if necessary. Unfortunately, splicing braided high-stretch nylon (IMHO the best anchor rode since it does not twist under tension) to a chain rode is not an easy task and will generally require professional help. All in all, "Rivendel II" uses a full-chain rather than a rope-tailed chain rode. Largely because of the need to anchor in coral- and rock-infested places at widely varying depths. However, we ALWAYS attach a snubber consisting of (maximally) 25 ft of 3/4", high-stretch, braided nylon and equipped with a heavy chain hook. Have fun! Flying Dutchman
Careful analysis of the various factors going into the choice between all-rope, all-chain and mixed anchor rodes has led many a sailor, including myself, to the conclusion that a rope-tailed chain rode indeed combines the best of both worlds, especially for sailors anchoring mostly at relatively similar depths. Two caveats are in order: (1) in anything but soft mud, try to keep the chain/rope splice clear off the bottom; and (2) when using a kellet (Terry's "sleeping pill") make sure the kellet slides well past the splice (i.e. onto the chain part of the rode). The reason is CHAFE. Those who regularly dive on their anchor rode will have observed how in relatively mild wind and wave conditions the same section of rode tends to get lifted off the sea bottom and dropped again endlessly. Having a kellet ride on the rope part of the rode, let alone sit on the splice, creates further risk of chafe. Since a direct rope/chain splice exposes the individual rope strands to extra chafe one should frequently inspect such splices and redo them, if necessary. Unfortunately, splicing braided high-stretch nylon (IMHO the best anchor rode since it does not twist under tension) to a chain rode is not an easy task and will generally require professional help. All in all, "Rivendel II" uses a full-chain rather than a rope-tailed chain rode. Largely because of the need to anchor in coral- and rock-infested places at widely varying depths. However, we ALWAYS attach a snubber consisting of (maximally) 25 ft of 3/4", high-stretch, braided nylon and equipped with a heavy chain hook. Have fun! Flying Dutchman
- Status