Changing the Shaft Coupler and Going With a PSS

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Hey all,
I have an '82 Catalina 30 that I am about to haul and tackle changing the shaft coupler. Right now there is a rusty old 'split' style coupler on there and the slow drip of my stuffing nut is quickly reducing it from a somewhat coherent object to a chunk of rust that will be VERY painful to remove. Since I was already going to be messing about with the shaft I decided that it would be a good time to make the switch to a PSS Shaft Seal.

Been planning the job all winter and have gone over the hundreds of posts on the web and scoured the internet for pics. Maine - as always - you have been a huge help.

Before pulling the trigger on ordering up the parts I had a couple of questions -
1. If I stay away from the 'pressed on' style of shaft coupler, can I get away with doing the split coupler install by myself. A slow, careful job of short turns on the bolts and feeler gauges between the coupler and Gear Plate, eventually getting the two to mate cleanly?? Or should I just not mess with it, and get the pros to do that mating? The whole apparatus was installed in 2007 when a Yanmar 3YM20 was installed, so 'hopefully' the shaft will be in good condition..
2. Then with the PSS - anyone out there had difficulty installing the vent hose? In a C30 there is VERY little headroom above the shaft so I am going to have to angle the fitting at perhaps 40degrees, then run the hose forward to the engine compartment so that I can raise it above the waterline.

Thanks Gang!
Mike

 

[seadaddler]

Did it

Just hauled to do bottom paint and change out the rubber booth on the PSS and so mainsail web info very helpful and even changed the cutlass bearing too.
Removed the coupling with heat and mainsails instruction and I had no split and replaced it too and cutlass bearing while shaft was out.
The vent hose gave me trouble for the last few years with PSS and now no more problem but hose go's up high with a bottle at top now which is important and no more problem with vent hose.
nick

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Thanks, I saw the posts about using the bottle to trap any water that may burp up over the end of the hose. Absolutely brilliant idea! My worry was more about having the hose coming off at less than 90 degrees and maybe leading to trapped air. It definitely looks like it is meant to be coming off vertically.

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Im betting I'll have to tackle the cutless bearing as well. Great to hear that you had an easy time of it!

Im worried about biting off more than I can chew. Or I guess I should say afford... apart from the above issues I am also tackling a MAJOR smile issue on my hull-keel joint. (I can see right through). This year's plan was to do the shaft and keel joint, then next year tackle the bilge and keel bolts. I'm one of those lucky guys with a plywood core under the bilge.
I know this isn't the best idea....always ideal to hit it all at once, but for me, money definitely comes into it.
Plan is thus:
1. Shaft coupler and pss to get the bilge dry up above. (Year 1)
2. Clean up the whole hull/keel joint and re-glass with GFlex epoxy. (Year 1)
3. Dig out the plywood core and re-seal the bilge from water ingress via the keel bolts. (Year 2)

 

[alexco38]

I had the vent routed about 40 degrees. It's been there since 2007. No problem so far.
I was worried for a while and bought an infrared thermometer to check. No heat detected even after a long drive of few hours.

 

[seadaddler]

vent hose

I wanted the hose to come straight up off the vent fitting and than at angle and than straight up as high as possible and into bottle,have had no water into bottle so far.
I would think with split should come off easy than my non split and mine got rusty too and just used wire brush and new paint to look new again.
I did what Mainsail web page showed with 2 different set of bolts and some sockets to press off and needed some minor heat to get it to start moving but than easy off but slow with spraying wd40 or T9.
I also did what mainsails did with cutlass bearing and that went much better and put new bearing I got from this forum into freezer for few days than into zip lock bag with ice and new bearing went in like butter.
Good luck
Nick

 

[jimmcgee]

You're lucky with the split coupling. It will make the job much easier.

The vent hose coming off at an angle doesn't seem to be a problem with ours.

Love the PSS seal and would never go back.

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

That's good to know the angle shouldnt be a problem with the PSS vent.
Regarding my replacement of the shaft coupler, I think I will just bite the bullet and ask the shop to do it. I'm really hoping MaineSail's estimation of $65 is going to be close for what our yards up here in the PNW charge. I'll try to have everything prepped for them to make it as easy as possible.

 

[mitiempo]

That's good to know the angle shouldnt be a problem with the PSS vent.
Regarding my replacement of the shaft coupler, I think I will just bite the bullet and ask the shop to do it. I'm really hoping MaineSail's estimation of $65 is going to be close for what our yards up here in the PNW charge. I'll try to have everything prepped for them to make it as easy as possible.

Local yards will charge around $90 per hour. Figure $100 with tax. Big question is the number of hours.

 

[dlochner]

Local yards will charge around $90 per hour. Figure $100 with tax. Big question is the number of hours.

Just had the cutlas bearing and PYY shaft seal replaced on a Sabre 362 sailed in freshwater (i.e., less rust). Bill came in at just over $1k. 2 hours labor on the cutlas bearing and 4 hours on the shaft seal. A little over $300 in parts.

Original plan was to simply replace the boot on the shaft seal, however, when it was removed the yard found the graphite bearing surface had gouges in it. This was an old style shaftseal without the bleed hose. It is likely that someone used a screwdriver to burp the seal causing the damage.

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Hi again,
if I can just ask for one more bit of clarification from everyone -

I have been doing as much reading (and viewing) as possible regarding the replacement of the shaft coupler. Maine's PSS article, which discusses removal of the coupler has been pivotal, but I feel like I am still missing a few obvious-to-most points. I now feel like I understand what 'fit and face' actually means, and have a grasp on its overall importance. Listed below is what I think needs to happen operationally. Please correct me if wrong:

1. Remove the old coupler (hopefully without needing to cut the shaft).
2. Back out the shaft and take this to the machine shop for a check on trueness.
3. Have the machine shop then fit and face a new (split) coupler.
4. If affordable for me, lap fit the prop.
5. Do any required work to the aft strut and cutless.
Now is when I get fuzzy. Can I:
6. Disassemble the fitted and faced coupling.
7. Slide the shaft back in (keep it outta the gutter gentlemen )
8. Hook up the PSS
9. Re-install the coupler, which if tightened and torqued properly will still be true.

OR

Does the machine shop's fitting have to remain together with the shaft then being put back into the boat as a single unit? This obviously means going in from forward and thus lifting the engine. I definitely don't want to do that. I would have to completely disassemble my galley to get at the engine.

Regardless, once the PSS is on, and the coupler/shaft are in place
10. Bolt to the transmission plate, with the same general principle as putting on your spare tire - tighten very slowly, migrating from bolt to bolt as you do.
11. Put boat back in the water and let it rest for a day or so.
12. Finally, check that the coupler/transmission plate have not flexed and opened any gaps on the fit between transmission plate and coupler.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much.

 

[Maine Sail]

Hi again,
if I can just ask for one more bit of clarification from everyone -

I have been doing as much reading (and viewing) as possible regarding the replacement of the shaft coupler. Maine's PSS article, which discusses removal of the coupler has been pivotal, but I feel like I am still missing a few obvious-to-most points. I now feel like I understand what 'fit and face' actually means, and have a grasp on its overall importance. Listed below is what I think needs to happen operationally. Please correct me if wrong:

1. Remove the old coupler (hopefully without needing to cut the shaft).
2. Back out the shaft and take this to the machine shop for a check on trueness.
3. Have the machine shop then fit and face a new (split) coupler.
4. If affordable for me, lap fit the prop.
5. Do any required work to the aft strut and cutless.
Now is when I get fuzzy. Can I:
6. Disassemble the fitted and faced coupling.
7. Slide the shaft back in (keep it outta the gutter gentlemen )
8. Hook up the PSS
9. Re-install the coupler, which if tightened and torqued properly will still be true.

OR

Does the machine shop's fitting have to remain together with the shaft then being put back into the boat as a single unit? This obviously means going in from forward and thus lifting the engine. I definitely don't want to do that. I would have to completely disassemble my galley to get at the engine.

Regardless, once the PSS is on, and the coupler/shaft are in place
10. Bolt to the transmission plate, with the same general principle as putting on your spare tire - tighten very slowly, migrating from bolt to bolt as you do.
11. Put boat back in the water and let it rest for a day or so.
12. Finally, check that the coupler/transmission plate have not flexed and opened any gaps on the fit between transmission plate and coupler.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much.

You can remove the fitted & faced coupler and re-install it in the boat. Be 100% sure to tighten the clamping bolts evenly!

Watch Keith Fenner's video on You Tube. Keith is a consummate professional and does this type of work the RIGHT WAY. Many shops do not.....

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

Thanks Maine. That's perfect! I have spent the weekend viewing every one of his vids I could get my hands on. I definitely know what to expect now and what to watch out for.
I should have juuuust enough rope now to hang myself.

My only remaining problem is that we have snow here in Victoria.....actual snow. Things better warm up here by the 14th!

 

[Elysium_Van_Isl]

I thought I would send a little update on how the project played out for me last week during haul-out.
I spent 2 full days trying to get the old coupler off the shaft. No deal. I did everything as discussed/instructed, but in the end, just like Maine says often happens, it needed to be cut. That meant a new shaft, as the 3" I lost with cutting was too much to allow re-use.

A local machinist ordered up a new one and fabricated a split coupler for it. He re-fit the prop and properly faced the coupler. He also made sure that everything had 'soft' edges to ensure that the PSS was not scratched or damaged during install, etc. It was a VERY nice bit of work. I'm really pleased.
The PSS gave me a little trouble as the stern tube (made from fiberglass) was slightly tapered. Using the recommended soapy water to install meant that the PSS would slide itself off as you tightened the clamps (bellows to cuff would move). I eventually got it to stay and will keep a close eye on it in the future.
Took the boat out for a 1 hour break-in and things operated exactly as hoped. No vibrations, nice smooth run and only a slight bit of water as the PSS wore itself in.
Bill for the job was a thousand from the machinist and $250 for the PSS. Added to my other haul-out costs, it hurts now, but this will be money well spent!
BTW - machinist hooked me up with a paint or sealant product called "Blue Steel". He put it on the Yanmar transmission plate, which had rusted due to contact with the old coupler.
Thanks again for all of your help folks!