Is it a design defect: I was sailing last week when I heard a loud boom and the majority of the threads of the rigging under the triangle that unites the back stay, the boom and the boat broke off. Miraculously the mast didn't fall. I had seen that the PO had changed that part. Any way to permanently remedy this? It seems to me that the constant sway will wear this rigging down again. Thanks in advance.
changing rigging below triangle of Oday 23
- Thread starter Herco Dunlop
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I didn't use the triangle on mine, as there is a traveler down in the cockpit for the mainsheet. When I changed out my back stay I just had one made that goes all the way from the top of the mast to the chainplate.
It's an awkward design, but it creates a lot of room in the cockpit, which works well for me and the pack of little arms and legs that frequents our boat. I've thought of ways to change it, but none of them leave the cockpit as uncluttered. I don't know that I agree the rig is anymore dangerous than other arrangements (I'm more concerned about uppers and lowers attaching to one chainplate per side, for instance). Here are changes I've considered:
Run the mainsheet to the transom, replace the backstay tail with one piece: The block on the transom would have to be offset in order to miss the tiller. I thought about doing this because my wife has a shoulder problem that makes it hard to work the mainsheet with the cleat hanging above. Still may do this if she continues to struggle with it.
Traveler: I've seen them mounted on the cockpit rail, but those arrangements always seem to look pretty weak, with not much traveler distance and/or vulnerable attachment points. If I were mounting a traveler it would be athwart in the forward part of the cockpit. It limits seating and would be a shin killer, but to me that's the best way to solve the awkward backstay/mainsheet arrangement if you want more sail control and don't mind giving up some space for it. I believe some of the 23s were built with this configuration.
Double mainsheet from boom end to aft corners: would help compensate for the lack of a traveler, but would also really limit seating room at the aft end of the cockpit seats. I'm also not sure the sheets would stay clear of the cockpit rail.
Double backstay: I saw a picture of this where a person attached the traveler between the two backstay tails. Looked equally unstable as mounting it on the rail.
Run the mainsheet to the transom, replace the backstay tail with one piece: The block on the transom would have to be offset in order to miss the tiller. I thought about doing this because my wife has a shoulder problem that makes it hard to work the mainsheet with the cleat hanging above. Still may do this if she continues to struggle with it.
Traveler: I've seen them mounted on the cockpit rail, but those arrangements always seem to look pretty weak, with not much traveler distance and/or vulnerable attachment points. If I were mounting a traveler it would be athwart in the forward part of the cockpit. It limits seating and would be a shin killer, but to me that's the best way to solve the awkward backstay/mainsheet arrangement if you want more sail control and don't mind giving up some space for it. I believe some of the 23s were built with this configuration.
Double mainsheet from boom end to aft corners: would help compensate for the lack of a traveler, but would also really limit seating room at the aft end of the cockpit seats. I'm also not sure the sheets would stay clear of the cockpit rail.
Double backstay: I saw a picture of this where a person attached the traveler between the two backstay tails. Looked equally unstable as mounting it on the rail.
I had that same set up on my 1986 O'Day 222 and I hated it. The reason that your mast didn't fall forward is probably because your side stays are anchored about 12" aft of your mast which is a good thing.
I saw a Santana mast fall over the bow last year when the owner removed the backstay to straighten out a twist at the top of the mast. Nobody expected that to happen and I guess the proper procedure to follow that day would have been to just let the mast back down aft and straighten in out.
Anyway, I went out and bought an el cheapo traveler and mounted it in front of my companionway. I had the guy at Rig-Rite move my open turnbuckle up on my backstay and mount a Johnson Handy-Lock under it to the chainplate.
This adjustable gadget is both a work, and time saver. I'm not sure if this gadget would throw enough slack into an O'Day 23 fore stay so that you can remove it but this is what I mainly use the JHL for.
The advantages are: I never need to mess with my side stay adjustments whenever I need to lower my mast. I can disconnect my roller furler in less than 10 minutes with this gadget. The JHL is pricey but any type of adjustable lever type turnbuckle that can throw enough slack into a forestay may work on the 23. If you can remove your forestay by loosening your backstay turnbuckle, it will work.
The disadvantage of having the traveler mounted in front of your companionway are pretty obvious. It cuts down on seating space and you need to step over it when you go in and out of the cabin.
The advantages are better pointing and sail control. You can move the boom out of the way when the sail is down and covered. This can enable you to get your gear in and out of the cabin like the 50 quart cooler. Also, you can stand at the helm and motor without having to worry about getting conked on the head by the boom.
Myself, I think it's a good trade off on my boat. Last year I bought a Harken Traveler and got rid of my old traveler. If you opt for a traveler, get a good one. You won't be sorry.
Joe
I saw a Santana mast fall over the bow last year when the owner removed the backstay to straighten out a twist at the top of the mast. Nobody expected that to happen and I guess the proper procedure to follow that day would have been to just let the mast back down aft and straighten in out.
Anyway, I went out and bought an el cheapo traveler and mounted it in front of my companionway. I had the guy at Rig-Rite move my open turnbuckle up on my backstay and mount a Johnson Handy-Lock under it to the chainplate.
This adjustable gadget is both a work, and time saver. I'm not sure if this gadget would throw enough slack into an O'Day 23 fore stay so that you can remove it but this is what I mainly use the JHL for.
The advantages are: I never need to mess with my side stay adjustments whenever I need to lower my mast. I can disconnect my roller furler in less than 10 minutes with this gadget. The JHL is pricey but any type of adjustable lever type turnbuckle that can throw enough slack into a forestay may work on the 23. If you can remove your forestay by loosening your backstay turnbuckle, it will work.
The disadvantage of having the traveler mounted in front of your companionway are pretty obvious. It cuts down on seating space and you need to step over it when you go in and out of the cabin.
The advantages are better pointing and sail control. You can move the boom out of the way when the sail is down and covered. This can enable you to get your gear in and out of the cabin like the 50 quart cooler. Also, you can stand at the helm and motor without having to worry about getting conked on the head by the boom.
Myself, I think it's a good trade off on my boat. Last year I bought a Harken Traveler and got rid of my old traveler. If you opt for a traveler, get a good one. You won't be sorry.
Joe
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Thanks guys! Good to hear from you again, Trinkka.
These are the options I considered:
1. Place two riggings, side by side, below the triangle that attach to the boat. This would reduce some of the back and forth swaying which is wearing down the rigging, and;
2. Where the triangle joins the block that controls the boom, place a metal ring to absorb some of the swaying.
Or just simply place the ring between the rigging below the triangle. This would eliminate the back and forth swaying of the triangle.
I will ask the person helping me with my rigging your suggestions.
Thanks again.
These are the options I considered:
1. Place two riggings, side by side, below the triangle that attach to the boat. This would reduce some of the back and forth swaying which is wearing down the rigging, and;
2. Where the triangle joins the block that controls the boom, place a metal ring to absorb some of the swaying.
Or just simply place the ring between the rigging below the triangle. This would eliminate the back and forth swaying of the triangle.
I will ask the person helping me with my rigging your suggestions.
Thanks again.
Hi Herco! I've been a bit under the weather lately but I'm hanging in there.
That sounds like a plan to me Herco. I encourage anyone to come up with their own solutions. I've gained a lot of good knowledge from this site through the years and picked up some useful ideas on sailboat mods.
Smooth Sailing,
Joe
That sounds like a plan to me Herco. I encourage anyone to come up with their own solutions. I've gained a lot of good knowledge from this site through the years and picked up some useful ideas on sailboat mods.
Smooth Sailing,
Joe
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