Fellow sailors: Any words of wisdom on changing the primary (Racor) and secondary (Yanmar) filters on a YSM 12. I have the original manual that came with the YSM 12 (leaves everything to be desired) and a Clymers (thin and doesn't cover the 12hp singles) This Yanmar has been running puurrrfect! I'd like to keep it that way. I bought the vessel last year and the PO had just changed the filters. Figure it's time for me to do it for "07". Has anyone done the filter change on this engine, any hints? This is my first time doing this. Thanks, Bob Alden 1979 Hunter 30 "Summers Glory"
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Just change the separately...
...That is , change one, start the engine & bleed it, then change the other, start the engine and bleed. This will ensure that that both get done independently. Better than troubleshooting the wrong one when it may not be the problem.
...That is , change one, start the engine & bleed it, then change the other, start the engine and bleed. This will ensure that that both get done independently. Better than troubleshooting the wrong one when it may not be the problem.
250-300 hrs on fuel filters
Bob: You really do not need to change the fuel filters every year unless you think your fuel supply is that contaminated. The service interval for the fuel filter is around 250-300 hrs. This is usually 2-3 years for most owners. It is not going to hurt anything doing it more often of course. When you install the new filters, it makes it easier if you fill the bowls with fuel. It makes the bleed much easier.
Bob: You really do not need to change the fuel filters every year unless you think your fuel supply is that contaminated. The service interval for the fuel filter is around 250-300 hrs. This is usually 2-3 years for most owners. It is not going to hurt anything doing it more often of course. When you install the new filters, it makes it easier if you fill the bowls with fuel. It makes the bleed much easier.
A related question please. I have some light
seepage around the engine bleed screw and probably some of the copper washers. I also have the old style Racor - small and metal - that is a mess waiting to happen when I change that filter in my 1996 280. If I replace the Racor with the clear-bowled spinon and the washers on the banjo fittings for the lift pump and engine filter along with the engine filter and bleed screw what kind of bleeding process should I use? Would it require bleeding the injectors? Never done this before so any advice is appreciated.
seepage around the engine bleed screw and probably some of the copper washers. I also have the old style Racor - small and metal - that is a mess waiting to happen when I change that filter in my 1996 280. If I replace the Racor with the clear-bowled spinon and the washers on the banjo fittings for the lift pump and engine filter along with the engine filter and bleed screw what kind of bleeding process should I use? Would it require bleeding the injectors? Never done this before so any advice is appreciated.
Clark
any time you open the fuel line, you will have to purge (bleed) any air that has been introduced. This is because the injection pump cannot pump air, only fuel. It follows, then, that if you open the line at any point you will have to bleed it further downstream, towards the engine.
any time you open the fuel line, you will have to purge (bleed) any air that has been introduced. This is because the injection pump cannot pump air, only fuel. It follows, then, that if you open the line at any point you will have to bleed it further downstream, towards the engine.
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