changing point and condenser on 2 hp evinrude

[newsailor72]

bought a used 1981 2 hp evinrude that had been sitting for a number of yrs. I changed the plug and tried to pull start, nothing is happening. I'm planning to clean the carb, I read that it could also be the point and condenser which I just ordered on ebay.

I've done the carb job a couple times on my tohatsu but never played with the point and condenser. is it pretty easy? what are the general steps, anything to watch out for? thanks.

 

[sailaway78]

Pretty simple

Once you get the flywheel off, changing the points and condenser is fairly straight forward. But you have to work through the little holes in the flywheel to set the point gap/timing. The cam for the points is on the flywheel. You need a manual to get the points right, as the points or the point plate controls the timing.

 

[Eddie7045]

A couple of tips about points and condenser. Replace

components one at a time. That way you will know where the problem was. The first thing, BEFORE you take them out, is to look at the points and see if the is anything obviously broken, missing contact, broken arm, ect. Check that they are functioning, points opening and closing. Do this whether or not you intend to replace them. If nothing appears wrong, you might want to move to the condenser and replace it first. If it fires up after you replace the condenser then you will know that it was a bad condenser. Funny thing about condensers is that new ones are notorious for being bad, brand new right out of the box, one of the reasons that you should replace ignition items one at a time. After replacing the condenser and trying to start you can then go back and replace the points , setting the gap (dwell).

Unless you have reason to suspect a fuel problem, assume that it is an ignition problem

 

[RichH]

When following all the previous good advice when working on the points and condenser etc., Also check the 'ground wire' that runs from the 'base' where all the 'ignition components' are located and check for electrical continuity and resistance as if this 'ground circuit is fault ... all the other stuff on the 'positive' side wont work.
What Im referring to is #26 in the attached dwg. and which connects the 'underside' of the base plate with the engine frame.

 

[sailaway78]

I don't agree Eddie

Respectfully I disagree with Eddie. Pulling the flywheel is pretty much a PITA. If you gotta pull it off, replace them both. Your not talking about boat bucks here. I have never, ever just changed either the points or condenser, without replacing both.

 

[woodster]

why not pull the spark plug and ground it to the frame andpull the starter rope as if you were going to start the engine and watch and see if you have a bright blue spark on the plug...if you do it may be that you have fuel problem....my 2 cents..

regards

woody

 

[Eddie7045]

Easy, How bad is it to pull the flywheel ?

.

 

[RichH]

Usually the flywheel on the Evinrude 2HP is quite easy to get off.

Remove the spindle nut, give the side of the flywheel a GOOD whack with a hammer and it usually will pop off at the first hit.
If that doesnt remove the wheel, insert 2 screwdrivers at 180° from one another under the margin of the wheel and base plate, apply leverage and get someone else to whack the side of the wheel. No need for a 'puller'.

If you do have difficulty in removing the fly wheel, 'shine up' the spindle and the tapered bore of the wheel before reassembling with medium 'crocus cloth' or valve grinding compound, so you easily get it off next time.

The old Evinrude 2 is a VERY RELIABLE outboard; but, very sensitive to fuel phase-separation when using ethanolated fuel .... and 'gum up' with stale fuel.
The carb clean out is easy --- remove the high speed needle adjustment screw and 'shoot in' carb cleaner and let soak. Swish the carb cleaner around by inverting the engine - this will fee up a stuck carb float valve.
Always run the engine dry when storing. And for long term lay-up, remove the high speed jet needle and 'wash out' the carb bowl with isopropyl alcohol - IPA.
To get the high speed needle into the correct operating position .... screw in the high speed need while counting quarter turns until the needle is all the way in, and simply duplicate how quarter turns 'out' when reinstalling.
Always use stabilized fuel in this or any other OB.

 

[RichH]

When changing the points for the first time on the Evinrude 2, I strongly recommend to take a few digital pics of exactly how the points assembly is in its 'final form' on the base plate BEFORE you remove it.
Replacement points are usually in 2-parts and if youre not very careful and not assemble them EXACTLY as the 'final form' that you saw, or how it looks in your pics you will be shorting the 'positive side' of the breaker points directly to ground .... the problem area is: which side the 'spring' is attached to the points electrical connection with the screw that tightens to the 'base assembly' of the breaker points. The spring carries voltage.

I usually never change out the 'condenser' (capacitor) on the Evin-2, but have had a few 'coil failures' over the years. Ive had/have several Evinrude-2's. Its a GREAT little OB.
Since Bombardier of Canada bought Evinrude, parts are widely available, even for units made in the 60s!!!!

If you havent changed to the replacement 'insert' water pump - a replacement water pump that fits 'inside' the body of the old pump I'd strongly recommend you do so. The only problem with the new 'capsule' pump is that you cannot run the pump dry even for 'just a few' rpm or you will destroy the impeller because of the tight fit of the impeller. The old pump could run for many minutes when dry, the new version simply cannot. The old leakey/loose pump can cause you to blow the head gasket when the head gets HOT and the head bolts become 'stretched'.

Keep your Evinrude2 well maintained and will last for MANY years, my 'oldest' is from the 60s. I use Heavy duty 'chain saw' 2 cycle oil for the 50:1 fuel mix.

 

[newsailor72]

The carb clean out is easy --- remove the high speed needle adjustment screw and 'shoot in' carb cleaner and let soak. Swish the carb cleaner around by inverting the engine - this will fee up a stuck carb float valve.
.

Rich, thanks for the detailed info.
Will try to do the carb job these couple days. Just checking, I could just remove the high speed needle (see attached pic) and squirt in some carb cleaner.

also, in the pic, the two empty holes in the middle are not intended for adjustment knobs/screws, right? thanks.

 

[jsalley]

I have the same engine (1985 model). Those holes are for bolts that hold the front housing onto the power head.

 

[newsailor72]

I took off the engine housing and put it back on yesterday, now the pull rope won't rewind. (to take off the housing, i had to remove one screw on the top that goes thru the flywheel.) what to do? thanks.

 

[RichH]

Its usually best NOT to loosen or remove that big phillips head screw that holds the rope spool on the recoil starter ... it causes the long steel spring to unwind and the 'hook' at the end of the spring to disconnect.
Check to see if the spring's hooked end has disconnected from the plastic of the spool.

If so, the spring will have to be 'rewound' onto the spool and positioned so that the 'rope' it set to proper length, etc. Do wear LARGE safety glasses when doing so as if the 'spring' gets away from you when winding and reinstalling it can 'lash out' and do damage to YOU.
Rewinding the spring and reserting the hook end of the spring is going to cause you to 'utter some nasty words'. Be patient and 'calm'.

Go to the evinrude.com 'parts' website, look up the year and engine model number, and search for an exploded view diagram for the 'pull start' / starter. :-(