Help! I am a proud owner of a Hunter 356, I'm ready for my first oil change. Is there a simple way of changing oil, locating the oil filter, type of oil filter, quantity of replacement oil, wgt. of oil. thanks for your help!
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Yanmar Manual
You should have a Yanmar manual that came with the boat. It will tell you how much oil and also has illustrations locating oil filter, oil fill and dipstick. You'll have to have some kind of pump to remove oil from dipstick hole. The Yanmar filters come from authorized parts distributors....as do all other parts for Yanmars. Tom H310 "Miss Jenna"
You should have a Yanmar manual that came with the boat. It will tell you how much oil and also has illustrations locating oil filter, oil fill and dipstick. You'll have to have some kind of pump to remove oil from dipstick hole. The Yanmar filters come from authorized parts distributors....as do all other parts for Yanmars. Tom H310 "Miss Jenna"
Yanmar filter, diesel oil and plenty of rags.
Christian: As Tom pointed out you should have a Yanmar manual. You can get one of their service manuals from the distributor in your area (good investment). You should purchase a Yanmar filter. The oil is up to you. They recommend either 15w-40 or 30w oil. Be sure that you get a Cx rated oil. I have been using Chevron Delo and it is highly recommended. Shell Rotella is also a very good oil. I would use whatever is easier to get from a local auto or marine store in your area. The oil capacity ranges from 1.6 - 2.6 qts based on the rake of the engine.
Christian: As Tom pointed out you should have a Yanmar manual. You can get one of their service manuals from the distributor in your area (good investment). You should purchase a Yanmar filter. The oil is up to you. They recommend either 15w-40 or 30w oil. Be sure that you get a Cx rated oil. I have been using Chevron Delo and it is highly recommended. Shell Rotella is also a very good oil. I would use whatever is easier to get from a local auto or marine store in your area. The oil capacity ranges from 1.6 - 2.6 qts based on the rake of the engine.
another rookie
I am a relatively new boat owner and have the Yanmar 3 GM as well. As previously mentioned you will need an oil pump to remove the old oil. On a previous post there was a chance the tube on the oil pump will not get to the very bottom of the pan as it can get caught on the engine pump, make sure you move it around enough to ensure you get right to the bottom and get all the oil. You will need a tool to loosen and tighten the filter, inexpensive at your local auto parts store. I run the engine 1st to make sure the oil is hot and will flow well - you don,t want it too hot or you can get burnt. When I have loosened the filter I then take a plasitic bag and wrap the filter in it. With a little practice you can unsrew the filter with the bag around it and all the oil left in the filter will spill into the bag. If you do it right the filter will come off without a drop being spilled. When you put the new filter on ensure the seal is lubricated with some oil. You can also pour a bit into the filter. ( not so much as it will spill when held horizontal. Tighten the filter securely but do not overtighten. Fill the engine to the dipstick mark and close everything up. After running the engine check again as the filter will take some and you may need to top up. Check for leaks periodically - they usually indicate something more serious is brewing. Good luck!
I am a relatively new boat owner and have the Yanmar 3 GM as well. As previously mentioned you will need an oil pump to remove the old oil. On a previous post there was a chance the tube on the oil pump will not get to the very bottom of the pan as it can get caught on the engine pump, make sure you move it around enough to ensure you get right to the bottom and get all the oil. You will need a tool to loosen and tighten the filter, inexpensive at your local auto parts store. I run the engine 1st to make sure the oil is hot and will flow well - you don,t want it too hot or you can get burnt. When I have loosened the filter I then take a plasitic bag and wrap the filter in it. With a little practice you can unsrew the filter with the bag around it and all the oil left in the filter will spill into the bag. If you do it right the filter will come off without a drop being spilled. When you put the new filter on ensure the seal is lubricated with some oil. You can also pour a bit into the filter. ( not so much as it will spill when held horizontal. Tighten the filter securely but do not overtighten. Fill the engine to the dipstick mark and close everything up. After running the engine check again as the filter will take some and you may need to top up. Check for leaks periodically - they usually indicate something more serious is brewing. Good luck!
Yo, Don
The challenge of getting to the bottom of the pan can be rectified by using a bronze pipette available at any hardware store. Buy a 12-inch piece small enough to fit in the oil hole and you won't have the floppy problem.
The challenge of getting to the bottom of the pan can be rectified by using a bronze pipette available at any hardware store. Buy a 12-inch piece small enough to fit in the oil hole and you won't have the floppy problem.
Different pumps
are available through Boat US, Walmart etc. The simple hand pump that will pump it into your old 1 Gal milk jug, or a settup that will cause a vacumn within a metal holding container as you pump, and the lazy mans methode that attaches to a power drill & trades arm action for a pull trigger. Your choice & pocketbook, however, for overall best engine upkeep you probably will change oil in the fall to get all the dirt & contamination out when you lay it up for the winter, and then again in the spring. You never get all the old oil out & a spring change helps insure a crankcase full of clean oil, and its only penneys spent vs a engine overhaul years later. For the rubber tube that will go into the dipstick hole, they usually are curled and hard to be sure they are in the lowest end of the slanting crankcase, replace it with a copper tube & put a slight cuve in it to allow it to snake into the hole & be directed to the lowest corner. Great help to run the engine 10-15 min to warm the oil, 30wt cold oil is difficult to pump through that tiny tube. Best of luck.
are available through Boat US, Walmart etc. The simple hand pump that will pump it into your old 1 Gal milk jug, or a settup that will cause a vacumn within a metal holding container as you pump, and the lazy mans methode that attaches to a power drill & trades arm action for a pull trigger. Your choice & pocketbook, however, for overall best engine upkeep you probably will change oil in the fall to get all the dirt & contamination out when you lay it up for the winter, and then again in the spring. You never get all the old oil out & a spring change helps insure a crankcase full of clean oil, and its only penneys spent vs a engine overhaul years later. For the rubber tube that will go into the dipstick hole, they usually are curled and hard to be sure they are in the lowest end of the slanting crankcase, replace it with a copper tube & put a slight cuve in it to allow it to snake into the hole & be directed to the lowest corner. Great help to run the engine 10-15 min to warm the oil, 30wt cold oil is difficult to pump through that tiny tube. Best of luck.
Changing the oil is not as hard as one might think, but it can be messy if you are not careful. The other posters gave some good advice. If you are looking for a place to buy filters, parts, etc, for a diesel, try Marine Diesel Direct (Torrensen). See link below. Once on their site, you can find advice (or ask for it), common part nomenclature, and similar info for most diesels. Best of all, if you order the stuff arrives at your door a few days later. This is a great company.
Yo Bill
That was me that had a tough time getting to the bottom of the pan. I was going to try that metal tube trick soon with that pump that was on HOW a while ago. I'm thankful that you voted for it too. Don, what-dya mean, you're a rookie? You have been doing oil changes for decades! You didn't miss a point.
That was me that had a tough time getting to the bottom of the pan. I was going to try that metal tube trick soon with that pump that was on HOW a while ago. I'm thankful that you voted for it too. Don, what-dya mean, you're a rookie? You have been doing oil changes for decades! You didn't miss a point.
I've been using the Top Sider that I purchased...
from WM three years ago. Works great, no mess and you can do other things while it does its work. Come back in ten minutes and its done. You can also use to drain bilges, etc. Terry
from WM three years ago. Works great, no mess and you can do other things while it does its work. Come back in ten minutes and its done. You can also use to drain bilges, etc. Terry
The Forgotten Option...
Have a Yanmar service company do it. We can change the oil on our 356 too and if you think it's fun by all means do it. But if the wind is up and you're changing your oil,... bummer.
Have a Yanmar service company do it. We can change the oil on our 356 too and if you think it's fun by all means do it. But if the wind is up and you're changing your oil,... bummer.
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