Changing Oil

[grania68]

Really stupid question, but here it is:

I've changed the oil many times myself but this is the first time I will change the oil filter myself (saving money). I already took out the old oil and poured in the new oil and then said, "uh oh" can I now change the filter with all that new oil in there, or should it be empty?

Thanks for any info.,
Maggie

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Unless you ran the engine, the old oil is still in the filter. Change it and you're good to go

 

[grania68]

thanks.
I did run the engine actually.
My problem is that I don't know if all the oil from the engine will spill out if I take off the filter. I can deal with the amount of oil cleanup from the filter. I'm ignorant of what's behind the filter and then afraid I'll have 4.3 quarts of oil to clean up. Bare bones question I'm afraid!

m

 

[Maine Sail]

thanks.
I did run the engine actually.
My problem is that I don't know if all the oil from the engine will spill out if I take off the filter. I can deal with the amount of oil cleanup from the filter. I'm ignorant of what's behind the filter and then afraid I'll have 4.3 quarts of oil to clean up. Bare bones question I'm afraid!

m

Filter is above the level of the oil. You can remove it and only will spill what is in the filter if not careful. Alternatively you can puncture it with an awl on the bottom and a n air vent on top to pre-drain the filter....

 

[grania68]

Aha, thanks for this! Much appreciated.

Maggie

 

[Nom De Guerre]

If you're going to puncture it with an awl;

-don't drive the awl in too far. A 1/2"or less will suffice.
AND/OR
-puncture near the the bottom edge of the filter (away from the engine).

Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging the threads on the filter boss on the engine (the thing the filter screws onto).

 

[Stu Jackson]

Good ideas. What I suggest for vents is: start with a rag or a "diaper" under the filter above the engine mount if it is close

1. punch a small hole in the TOP far (away from the threads) end
2. start rotating the filter counter clockwise until that hole is on the bottom - a little might dribble out, so be prepared
3. punch the second hole on the top, then the oil will come out, into the container you were smart enough to have right under the filter, right?

Otherwise, I just unscrew mine and take care to catch what dribbles out of the end.

Either way:

Good luck, it's doable.

 

[shipwreck66]

bilge sheets come in handy

 

[anchorclanker]

Changing the oil without the filter is like taking a shower and putting your dirty clothes back on. Why bother.

Years ago some would change oil filters every other oil change, but seriously, what are you saving, exactly? A filter is less than $10. You engine is worth thousands, even used.

Throw some rags under the motor and unscrew the filter a ways, whatever didnt drain back into the engine will drip on your rags. You'll figure out a better way, if needed, with added knowledge and experience.

You changing the oil and filter hot, after running it at least an hour, so all the crud inside has been picked up by the oil and is held in suspension, correct? Changing oil on a cold engine is like taking a shower and putting your dirty clothes back on. Why bother.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Changing the oil without the filter is like taking a shower and putting your dirty clothes back on. Why bother.

Simple: they're saving at least $1.29 in a half as*ed filter made of diapers.

Sheesh -- there are all sorts of folks out there, many of them who choose to be pound wise and penny foolish.

Darn, I do use FRAM filters and Maine Sail says I shouldn't, they'll KILL my engine, 14 years so far...I'll find some Baldwins soon...I promise.

 

[Maine Sail]

Darn, I do use FRAM filters and Maine Sail says I shouldn't, they'll KILL my engine, 14 years so far...I'll find some Baldwins soon...I promise.

Never said that. I said I have seen more anti-drainback failures on the cheap orange can Fram filters than any other.

I have never seen a Wix or Baldwin have an anti-drainback failure, not that they can't, I've just never seen it. I recently removed a horizontally mounted orange can Fram, about a month ago, that came off nearly empty. Made for a clean oil change but the oil should not have drained back into the engine. Considering my cost on the Wix at NAPA is about the same as a Fram, I use the Wix if not using an OEM filter. The Fram TG series is better and I've yet to see an anti-drainback failure with one but they cost more than what I pay for a NAPA Gold/WIX so why not just buy the Wix?

 

[Dan Hill]

I totally agree about the Fram filter quality, or lack there of. I worked in the auto parts biz for 12 years, Napa actually. We cut many brands of filters open and found the Fram line to be the cheapest quality made, both in the valve and the paper quality and quantity. Thats why they are sold mainly in the "Mart" stores. Napa and Wix are/were made by the same company "Gard Corporation" and have served me well for over 25 years. jmho