This is a followup to my "solo and proud" post from friday. It's a couple days later, and the glow is still there, but an observation and a question for all of you old salts ... Obervation ... I think an auto-helm may be more desirable than any other accessory for singlehanding. I rigged a thwartship line looped around the tiller and tensioned w/shockcord, and it let me fix the tiller position easily, but anytime you change the balance (drop a sail, etc.), you have to change the tiller. Question ... I started w/main and 135 (mistake). I ended up way overpowered w/a 135 and it's an old sail anyway, so wanted to change down to a working jib. After think about it for a long tack, here's how I did it, and I hope someone has some better ideas. Remember, no auto-helm and halyards at the mast ... Heaved to, went forward and hanked the new jib under the old. Went back to the cockpit, headed up, ran forward and dropped the jib. Ran back, got her kind of heaved to on main and tiller strapped over the other way. Ran back forward, got the 135 off and the sheets off. Had to run back and get her rebalanced. Ran forward and got the 135 the rest of the way down the hatch and tied the sheets to the new jib. Ran back and rebalanced. Ran forward and raised working jib. Ran back to the cockpit, sheeted in, heaved to again, and sat down for quite a while. All this RUNNING around is guaranteed to dump you overboard eventually. I don't think it's good technique, and too many trips forward anyway. Short of adding an autohelm, which I won't do on this old boat, can anyone suggest a better sequence? Keep in mind everything is happening very fast in that kind of wind. All those early singlehanders I read about must have dealt with this ... no auto-helms or halyards led aft in the earlier days ... (Also note I had on a life jacket, and knew that water temps, etc. would allow me to get myself ashore. It's a big lake but still a lake, not the ocean.) May be a mute point ... Jayne and I looked closely at a C27 yesterday, rigged well for singlehanding !!!!! But I still think this is worth some discussion on this forum. Auto-helms can/do break and one must make do ... Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake
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First Try Also
Tom, I too tried it your way and almost fell in twice. My plan for next time is to raise the jib before I leave my mooring. All my halyards lead into the cockpit but "Something always hangs up" I do have a line connected to the top of the jib so I can pull it down from the cockpit, course I'll have to figure a way to keep it dry without running back and forth like a madman. Next boat I get def. will have roller furling! Good Luck to Us both...John
Tom, I too tried it your way and almost fell in twice. My plan for next time is to raise the jib before I leave my mooring. All my halyards lead into the cockpit but "Something always hangs up" I do have a line connected to the top of the jib so I can pull it down from the cockpit, course I'll have to figure a way to keep it dry without running back and forth like a madman. Next boat I get def. will have roller furling! Good Luck to Us both...John
Leave Tiller loose
I think that you're making it too hard. Try leaving the tiller loose or unrestrained, with the mainsheet cleated. Weather helm will keep the boat headed into the wind and you should be able to change sails at your leisure.
I think that you're making it too hard. Try leaving the tiller loose or unrestrained, with the mainsheet cleated. Weather helm will keep the boat headed into the wind and you should be able to change sails at your leisure.
Wind Vane
Early solo sailors used wind vanes. This allowed them to change sails, make dinner and even sleep which is very important when soloing. You can easily make your own or find one fairly cheap. One comment you made concerns me and that is your ability to reach shore if you go overboard. That is fine and your life should be your first priority but not when you are creating this potentially life threatning situation. I guess my point is that if you are risking your boat and your life while single handing for recreation then you also need to worry about where your boat goes after you get to shore. Now you are potentially involving innocent bystanders into your situation. My suggestion would be to have a stern line of about 50 ft or so to grab and haul yourself out if you go overboard. You would also probably need a ladder to reboard. Knox-Johnson and Moitessier actually trailed stern lines so they could go for swims during the 1969 Golden Globe. My .02 Tim Reilley
Early solo sailors used wind vanes. This allowed them to change sails, make dinner and even sleep which is very important when soloing. You can easily make your own or find one fairly cheap. One comment you made concerns me and that is your ability to reach shore if you go overboard. That is fine and your life should be your first priority but not when you are creating this potentially life threatning situation. I guess my point is that if you are risking your boat and your life while single handing for recreation then you also need to worry about where your boat goes after you get to shore. Now you are potentially involving innocent bystanders into your situation. My suggestion would be to have a stern line of about 50 ft or so to grab and haul yourself out if you go overboard. You would also probably need a ladder to reboard. Knox-Johnson and Moitessier actually trailed stern lines so they could go for swims during the 1969 Golden Globe. My .02 Tim Reilley
sailchange drift
Can't wait to go again, huh? Yes, sail changes when solo sometimes can't be avoided. I found that my Mac-22 will drift to leeward nicely when luffing beam-to. I find a spot with lots of room to leeward, put her on a close reach, and let the sheets run. As she luffs and drifts, I go below, bring up a new sail, lower the jib, and hank on the new one, run the sheets, stow the old jib, and return to the cockpit. Move carefully when solo but no rush needed. Doubt that I will put roller reefing on this boat soon. (I do the same for making sail or coming in.) Experiment with how your boat behaves in emergencies you may have to leave the helm for.
Can't wait to go again, huh? Yes, sail changes when solo sometimes can't be avoided. I found that my Mac-22 will drift to leeward nicely when luffing beam-to. I find a spot with lots of room to leeward, put her on a close reach, and let the sheets run. As she luffs and drifts, I go below, bring up a new sail, lower the jib, and hank on the new one, run the sheets, stow the old jib, and return to the cockpit. Move carefully when solo but no rush needed. Doubt that I will put roller reefing on this boat soon. (I do the same for making sail or coming in.) Experiment with how your boat behaves in emergencies you may have to leave the helm for.
Roller reefed 110 for single handing
Somehow, the need to singlehand is less when the wind is light! In moderate winds and above, our h27 performs quite well on the 110 and main. With roller reefing, and the main halyard led aft, I can do it all in the cockpit, except reefing the main. But that is easy to do while heaved to. If I had to change a headsail anyway, then I would use Jim's method. There will be some flogging of the main while she's headed into the wind. but you can just sit up on the bow and get the job done. By the way, this is the big plus of "weather helm!" I'd strongly recommend a harness, tether, and jacklines when singelhanding. Going overboard in heavy weather is often accompanied by a bump on the head or other injury. My understanding is that making headway up a line becomes very difficult at around 2 knots, so the trailed line idea wouldn't be much help in those conditions. David Lady Lillie
Somehow, the need to singlehand is less when the wind is light! In moderate winds and above, our h27 performs quite well on the 110 and main. With roller reefing, and the main halyard led aft, I can do it all in the cockpit, except reefing the main. But that is easy to do while heaved to. If I had to change a headsail anyway, then I would use Jim's method. There will be some flogging of the main while she's headed into the wind. but you can just sit up on the bow and get the job done. By the way, this is the big plus of "weather helm!" I'd strongly recommend a harness, tether, and jacklines when singelhanding. Going overboard in heavy weather is often accompanied by a bump on the head or other injury. My understanding is that making headway up a line becomes very difficult at around 2 knots, so the trailed line idea wouldn't be much help in those conditions. David Lady Lillie
second to harness
I singlehand my C27 a lot, and last year I busted my roller furler drum, and lived with headsails on furler foil, but no drum (I gota CDI drum this year and will install the weeked. Raising or dousing a 135 on or off the foil was no fun while bobbing around in 3-5 foot Nantucket Sound chop. But I decided NEVER to go forward when sailing alone without putting on my harness and clipping on to jack lines. An experienced ailor fell off his boat last summer while singlehanding just off Nantucket- watched his boat sail away, and spent a number of hours in Nantucket Sound w/o lifejacket. He was lucky and was spotted by a fisherperson, and lived to tell the tale. It was about then I decided that staying attached to the boat when out of the cockpit even under benign conditions was a must. I am also going to rig a way to release the stern ladder from the water 'just in case' I find myself inspecting the waterline at eyelevel after a mishap. My father taught me to always trail a line with a float on the end while swimming off the boat, even if you have lots of friends around, as current/wind combo can keep a tired swimmer from getting back to the boat. This I do too. Besides, it is fun! Roger C27 & Mabel #5012 Cape Cod
I singlehand my C27 a lot, and last year I busted my roller furler drum, and lived with headsails on furler foil, but no drum (I gota CDI drum this year and will install the weeked. Raising or dousing a 135 on or off the foil was no fun while bobbing around in 3-5 foot Nantucket Sound chop. But I decided NEVER to go forward when sailing alone without putting on my harness and clipping on to jack lines. An experienced ailor fell off his boat last summer while singlehanding just off Nantucket- watched his boat sail away, and spent a number of hours in Nantucket Sound w/o lifejacket. He was lucky and was spotted by a fisherperson, and lived to tell the tale. It was about then I decided that staying attached to the boat when out of the cockpit even under benign conditions was a must. I am also going to rig a way to release the stern ladder from the water 'just in case' I find myself inspecting the waterline at eyelevel after a mishap. My father taught me to always trail a line with a float on the end while swimming off the boat, even if you have lots of friends around, as current/wind combo can keep a tired swimmer from getting back to the boat. This I do too. Besides, it is fun! Roger C27 & Mabel #5012 Cape Cod
Change Down Early
Tom: I've found its best to go to the smaller sail early before the winds get too strong and the waves too bumpy. Otherwise my boat seems to wander a lot while I'm on the bow and the tiller is doing its own thing or even if it is being "tamed". Having a down haul so you can pull down the first jib from wherever you tie off the jib halyard also saves some "running" back and forth. Actually, I think you did quite good and have reason to be proud! Part of the fun of single-handed is the exercise, both physical and mental. Dick
Tom: I've found its best to go to the smaller sail early before the winds get too strong and the waves too bumpy. Otherwise my boat seems to wander a lot while I'm on the bow and the tiller is doing its own thing or even if it is being "tamed". Having a down haul so you can pull down the first jib from wherever you tie off the jib halyard also saves some "running" back and forth. Actually, I think you did quite good and have reason to be proud! Part of the fun of single-handed is the exercise, both physical and mental. Dick
A safe way is in order
Advice here from the other sailors is good, a life harness a must. If you dont use a roller furling jib then a jib down haul line run back to the cockpit w/ tie off cleat would be a good idea. It doesn't need to be as big of line as the hallyard line as it only pulls the jib down through a small pulley or block at the base of the front or "main stay". After the sail is down the chances of the boat heeling over too far are less likely. Before I had a roller furler, when single handing in heavy air I would take the main down and go adrift long enough to change to storm sail w/down haul. Hope this helps take care and let us know what works out.
Advice here from the other sailors is good, a life harness a must. If you dont use a roller furling jib then a jib down haul line run back to the cockpit w/ tie off cleat would be a good idea. It doesn't need to be as big of line as the hallyard line as it only pulls the jib down through a small pulley or block at the base of the front or "main stay". After the sail is down the chances of the boat heeling over too far are less likely. Before I had a roller furler, when single handing in heavy air I would take the main down and go adrift long enough to change to storm sail w/down haul. Hope this helps take care and let us know what works out.
thanks!
Thank you all for your rsponses, and YES, I can't wait to do it again. I want to acknowledge all the comments on harnesses, etc. I made the same observation myself at the time, and ordered one the day after. Don't have a fixed swim ladder though, so better solution is to build procedures and careful practices so I don't hit the drink in the first place. This weekend, with or without crew, I'm going to try out all of your suggestions. I particularly like Jim's idea of just cleating the main and leaving the tiller free. I'm hoping she'll head up, fall off, head up, etc. I think the motion may be less severe than John's idea of letting everything go and drifting, although I'll try that too. May not work ... my boat seems to like to lay a long way off the wind. And, could be VERY rolly on my shoal keel boat in 3 ft. fresh water waves. All of your suggestions seem much easier than the sequence I followed. A note/question on trailing lines ... my practice my whole two seasons on this boat is to anchor before swimming, thus, I don't feel the need to trail a line. Comments? Don't have much experience with the swimming part. We never did that while racing on Lake Michigan (well, once in a glassy calm during a hot Mac). Thanks again! Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake
Thank you all for your rsponses, and YES, I can't wait to do it again. I want to acknowledge all the comments on harnesses, etc. I made the same observation myself at the time, and ordered one the day after. Don't have a fixed swim ladder though, so better solution is to build procedures and careful practices so I don't hit the drink in the first place. This weekend, with or without crew, I'm going to try out all of your suggestions. I particularly like Jim's idea of just cleating the main and leaving the tiller free. I'm hoping she'll head up, fall off, head up, etc. I think the motion may be less severe than John's idea of letting everything go and drifting, although I'll try that too. May not work ... my boat seems to like to lay a long way off the wind. And, could be VERY rolly on my shoal keel boat in 3 ft. fresh water waves. All of your suggestions seem much easier than the sequence I followed. A note/question on trailing lines ... my practice my whole two seasons on this boat is to anchor before swimming, thus, I don't feel the need to trail a line. Comments? Don't have much experience with the swimming part. We never did that while racing on Lake Michigan (well, once in a glassy calm during a hot Mac). Thanks again! Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake
crabby
Tom, if your boat won't crab sideways like mine, I would try cleating the sheets for a beam reach. That way she will neither fall off too much or head up too much. Trying to stay on the wind will be difficult and may send the boat thru the gyrations of being 'in irons', i.e. excess heel and flop tacks. Of course if she likes that or any other position, that will be your window of stability for leaving the helm. Agree with everyone about safety measures when solo.
Tom, if your boat won't crab sideways like mine, I would try cleating the sheets for a beam reach. That way she will neither fall off too much or head up too much. Trying to stay on the wind will be difficult and may send the boat thru the gyrations of being 'in irons', i.e. excess heel and flop tacks. Of course if she likes that or any other position, that will be your window of stability for leaving the helm. Agree with everyone about safety measures when solo.
rescue steps
Wanted to throw in a picture while we are on emergency trailing lines. Getting yourself aboard again can be difficult, even with a line. My transom came equiped with some old-fashioned folding steps; I don't know if they are still around. They don't work well for swimming, as you need a step lower in the water. For emergencies, however, they could make your day. Some visiting yachties thought they were the cat's whiskers.
Wanted to throw in a picture while we are on emergency trailing lines. Getting yourself aboard again can be difficult, even with a line. My transom came equiped with some old-fashioned folding steps; I don't know if they are still around. They don't work well for swimming, as you need a step lower in the water. For emergencies, however, they could make your day. Some visiting yachties thought they were the cat's whiskers.
Attachments
Swim lines
Tom, I grew up sailing in the Delaware River, and now moor off Nantucket Sound. Both areas have a lot of current. I think that is why I insist on the trailing lines, even at the mooring! Roger C27 & Mabel #5012 Cape Cod
Tom, I grew up sailing in the Delaware River, and now moor off Nantucket Sound. Both areas have a lot of current. I think that is why I insist on the trailing lines, even at the mooring! Roger C27 & Mabel #5012 Cape Cod
My singlehanding maxims...
*ALWAYS CLIP ON!!! Even in the cockpit. A harness and tether are useless if not worn. *CRAWL, rather than walk, on the fore deck. *Know that you can get back into the boat if you do fall off. (This is a great topic for further discussion.) *Rig the jib, not the genoa, unless you absolutely, positively for sure know the wind will not kick up. The smaller sail is easier to handle. Changing to the larger sail because the wind is easing is much less stressful. *If you must make a change, take Jim Parks advice, STALL THE BOAT, by leaving the tiller loose and cleating the main. The boat will stay pointed to weather, the foredeck may pitch in choppy conditions, but it'll stay put and not sail away if you do fall off. You can heave to with main only,(see "Annapolis Book of Seamanship" for a description of this procejure) but for a sail change it's easier to just stall the boat for a few minutes. *You only need TWO TRIPS to the bow. One to unhank and clear the old sail from the foredeck. Two to hank on new one. Everything else can be done from the mast, or cockpit. *Tape the the latches so you can open the foredeck hatch from the foredeck. *An autopilot is an invaluable single handing tool, however,do NOT use the AUTOHELM while changing sails or any other activity where you are susceptible to falling off the boat. Even if you are attached, the boat may drag you to the point of exhaustion where you can't get back on by yourself. Those are my main suggestions, other than taking a cell phone or letting someone know where you are going. I want to tell you that that first single handing experience is quite a milestone. The degree of freedom you feel is quite profound. With this freedom, though, comes even greater responsibility. There is no one to cover you if you become disabled, or use bad judgment. But now you have gone to the next level, you are self sufficient. Congratulations, sailor.
*ALWAYS CLIP ON!!! Even in the cockpit. A harness and tether are useless if not worn. *CRAWL, rather than walk, on the fore deck. *Know that you can get back into the boat if you do fall off. (This is a great topic for further discussion.) *Rig the jib, not the genoa, unless you absolutely, positively for sure know the wind will not kick up. The smaller sail is easier to handle. Changing to the larger sail because the wind is easing is much less stressful. *If you must make a change, take Jim Parks advice, STALL THE BOAT, by leaving the tiller loose and cleating the main. The boat will stay pointed to weather, the foredeck may pitch in choppy conditions, but it'll stay put and not sail away if you do fall off. You can heave to with main only,(see "Annapolis Book of Seamanship" for a description of this procejure) but for a sail change it's easier to just stall the boat for a few minutes. *You only need TWO TRIPS to the bow. One to unhank and clear the old sail from the foredeck. Two to hank on new one. Everything else can be done from the mast, or cockpit. *Tape the the latches so you can open the foredeck hatch from the foredeck. *An autopilot is an invaluable single handing tool, however,do NOT use the AUTOHELM while changing sails or any other activity where you are susceptible to falling off the boat. Even if you are attached, the boat may drag you to the point of exhaustion where you can't get back on by yourself. Those are my main suggestions, other than taking a cell phone or letting someone know where you are going. I want to tell you that that first single handing experience is quite a milestone. The degree of freedom you feel is quite profound. With this freedom, though, comes even greater responsibility. There is no one to cover you if you become disabled, or use bad judgment. But now you have gone to the next level, you are self sufficient. Congratulations, sailor.
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