I have a 1990 Hunter 28, with a 18 Hp (2GM20F) engine. I decided to flush out my engine. I warmed the engine for about 30 minutes or so, then drained. The question is on a 2GM20F Yanmar, do you have to open both drains to flush al the antifreeze out, or just the one that holds the permanent antifreeze. I added new antifreeze which is Halvoline/Texaco Extended Life red in color. This is a ethylene gylcol. Yanmar recommended I start using this product vs. Prestone. My problem I am having is after I mixed 50/50 solution and ran about 20 to 30 minutes, my antifreeze tester only shows -10 degrees, which is really not adequate for St. Louis. I was trying to get to -25 or so. My next step was to start the engine again achieve operating temp and drain both pet cocks on the engine and add my 50/50 solution again. Another question was does the permanent antifreeze that is drained from the heat exchanger mix with the water that is in the lower drain. Maybe thats why I can not achieve my -25, because maybe I still have diluted water still in engine block. Joe
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This time
This time drain out about half of the mix and add only antifreeze without the water. Also, if you add water use distilled water. This is also a good time to change the oil and filter and mist the entire engine (except the belts) with WD40.
This time drain out about half of the mix and add only antifreeze without the water. Also, if you add water use distilled water. This is also a good time to change the oil and filter and mist the entire engine (except the belts) with WD40.
Redo
Did you drain from both pet cocks when you added new coolant. Maybe I need to start over and drain from both and than add 50/50. Do you agree?
Did you drain from both pet cocks when you added new coolant. Maybe I need to start over and drain from both and than add 50/50. Do you agree?
Thanks
Landsend, thanks for your reply. Engine, head all systems are now winterized. Not having a temp gage on my 1990 Hunter, its hard to tell what the temp is. I know its important to get up to 180 degrees to let thermostat open. Mixing 50/50 should do the trick, but you just don't know unless you use a antifreeze tester. My problem was I got -10 in the hot state, and when the engine cooled down, I got -25. I guess temperature my do something to the tester. JOe
Landsend, thanks for your reply. Engine, head all systems are now winterized. Not having a temp gage on my 1990 Hunter, its hard to tell what the temp is. I know its important to get up to 180 degrees to let thermostat open. Mixing 50/50 should do the trick, but you just don't know unless you use a antifreeze tester. My problem was I got -10 in the hot state, and when the engine cooled down, I got -25. I guess temperature my do something to the tester. JOe
'Permanent 'Antifreeze Vs Non-Toxic
Your thread presumably focuses on the closed antifreeze loop, which if it tests out at -25 degrees should be fine. That said, the fresh water side would have had the Non-Toxic winterizing antifreeze added to the seawater intake where water was already present in the system. For a 2GM20F, it has been my practice to let the intake hose suck in at least a full gallon of -100 degree Non-Toxic antifreeze, NOT THE CHEAPEER -30 to -60 TYPE. This insures that the strainer, water pump and heat exchanger are nearly at 100% and the waterlift muffler is well mixed and possibly above 50%. I use the -60 in the head, holding tank and hoses above all seacocks, having learned the hard way why you need to really read the fine print as you are looking at frozen blue slush above a stuck seacock in the dead of winter.
Your thread presumably focuses on the closed antifreeze loop, which if it tests out at -25 degrees should be fine. That said, the fresh water side would have had the Non-Toxic winterizing antifreeze added to the seawater intake where water was already present in the system. For a 2GM20F, it has been my practice to let the intake hose suck in at least a full gallon of -100 degree Non-Toxic antifreeze, NOT THE CHEAPEER -30 to -60 TYPE. This insures that the strainer, water pump and heat exchanger are nearly at 100% and the waterlift muffler is well mixed and possibly above 50%. I use the -60 in the head, holding tank and hoses above all seacocks, having learned the hard way why you need to really read the fine print as you are looking at frozen blue slush above a stuck seacock in the dead of winter.
water heater
Did you (if you have one) drain and flush the hot water heater hoses and exchanger on the hot water heater? Be sure to flush the entire system then add pre mixed 50/50 solution.Do not mix the new 5 year anti freeze with the older green type.You may want to do a water flush first then blow the lines clear with a shop vac.You will also need to drain both side of the block as well heat exchanger
Did you (if you have one) drain and flush the hot water heater hoses and exchanger on the hot water heater? Be sure to flush the entire system then add pre mixed 50/50 solution.Do not mix the new 5 year anti freeze with the older green type.You may want to do a water flush first then blow the lines clear with a shop vac.You will also need to drain both side of the block as well heat exchanger
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