chainplates on a 23

[mark seatvet]

I had my Hunter 23 surveyed a few days ago after a renovation. The surveyor said that the plywood cutouts the chainplates are bolted to need to be replaced because of "woodrot"...he doesn't look a thing like Capt'n Ron.  I don't want to argue with'm but I do want to know if anyone has actual experience replacing them in an '89 Hunter 23. Gotta get insurance ya know.

 

[mike]

sandwich em

The previous owner of my '87 H23 took a couple pieces of stainless steel and bolted them over the wood pieces. He then filled the rotted wood with wood putty or "git rot". Come to our Nationals and I'll show you the job!

 

[Wanderer138]

Just replaced mine

I got the idea and photos from Mike. In my case the rot was so bad it had to be cut away. I did it carefully so that I could use the cut piece as a template to make a new piece from 1/2" ply.The new piece was epoxied to the bulkhead with J-B Weld. To keep the joint aligned while the epoxy cured, I sandwiched it between stainless steel plates drilled to match the chainplate bolt pattern. A second hole pattern was added lower down to straddle the overlap between the old and new wood. Plastic food wrap between the plates and the wood keeps them from being glued.When the J-B Weld cured, I painted the bulkhead with epoxy to reduce the risk for problems if the chainplate leaks in the future (Git-Rot is good too). I then drilled through the wood using the holes in the plates as a guide and then bolted everything together.Once this is all done, the main thing to remember is that the chainplates have to be checked and recaulked regularly. Life Caulk is the best thing to use here. If done right, it takes about an hour or so per side and should last about two years. Good luck.PeterH23 "Raven"

 

[Wanderer138]

Question for Crazy Dave

I was told LifeCaulk was better for chainplates and other deck fittings that move (stanchion bases etc.) because it was more flexible and easier to remove when it came time to rebed the fifting. From personal experience, removing silicone can be a real pain, especially 3M 5200 or its generic equivalent. I only use silicone in places that don't really move, e.g. under the traveler or jib tracks.PeterH23 "Raven"

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

5200 is not a silicon

Peter,5200 is a selant that is used primarily bedding thru hulls on the hull, bonding the hull to deck joints, and so forth as it is some of the strongest and generally never fails. It is not a silicon and yes it is a pain to remove and sometimes you can take the gel coat off with it on top sides.Life Caulk is a good product but again I like the West Marine brand of silicon as I understand it is actually made by Siliflex.The silicon I find is a good selant and when dry, it is flexible and gives some which the seal will not break. 5200 can break its seal and with the cover plates over the shroud chain plates, experience has taught me to use a silicon and not 5200. Crazy Dave Condon