My 1975 Oday 27 has developed cracks 1" from the perimeter of the lower shroud backing plates inside the cabin. A marine surveyor checked it out and said that the deck is sound and no delamination is evident. The shroud tension is a little slack but the chainplates seem firm. It appears that the this is a crack between the liner and the build up around the backing plate. I was planning on grinding this off to inspect the interior and then build it back up. If the interior is sound on one, I thought I might just route out the crack on the others and inject epoxy into it to reattach the liner with this backing area. Has anyone had this problem before or any better solution ideas.
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T
TT
Similar problem
Phil - I've a '78 O27 and there's some cracking evident from inside of the pads where the lower shroud chainplates are bonded to the deck. Since the uppers allow some water to leak into the interior ( and into the balsa core) I assume there is similar leakage at the lowers as well. I'm guessing the cracking is due to moisture accumulating around the chainplate and 25+ years of freeze-thaw cycles (the boat came from Maine). Since corrosion of the stainless chainplate will occur in a confined area where there's no atmospheric oxygen present, and rig-failures have apparently occurred from this sort of hidden corosion, I plan to cut the laminate from below and pop out the chainplate for inspection. This proceedure was recommended by an O27 owner in Fla., who said it is a pretty straightforward job. Another option to consider is to put new chainplates on the outside of the hull and be forever free of the leaking deck & rotting core problems that seem to be endemic. E-mail me direct if you want to kick this around in more detail.
Phil - I've a '78 O27 and there's some cracking evident from inside of the pads where the lower shroud chainplates are bonded to the deck. Since the uppers allow some water to leak into the interior ( and into the balsa core) I assume there is similar leakage at the lowers as well. I'm guessing the cracking is due to moisture accumulating around the chainplate and 25+ years of freeze-thaw cycles (the boat came from Maine). Since corrosion of the stainless chainplate will occur in a confined area where there's no atmospheric oxygen present, and rig-failures have apparently occurred from this sort of hidden corosion, I plan to cut the laminate from below and pop out the chainplate for inspection. This proceedure was recommended by an O27 owner in Fla., who said it is a pretty straightforward job. Another option to consider is to put new chainplates on the outside of the hull and be forever free of the leaking deck & rotting core problems that seem to be endemic. E-mail me direct if you want to kick this around in more detail.
M
Mike
Count me in
I can't get the uppers to stop leaking into the bulkhead. I've tried anything & I am open to suggestions.
I can't get the uppers to stop leaking into the bulkhead. I've tried anything & I am open to suggestions.
P
Phil
lower shroud alternate design
Thanks for that. I should have mentioned that surveyor found little moisture on his meter when he checked the area around the lower connection points. Because the hull was not beefed up to accomodate chainplates on the hull, I have been considering having some lower chainplates made out of stainless with a a large back plate that would bolt against a larger deck cover plate. This would be visible in the cabin for inspection and then I would only have to worry about corrosion of the vertical part of the chainplate where it goes through the deck. The backing plate would spread the load via the cored deck. Basically the same set up as now but without everything being hidden inside glass where I can not see it. I would also seal the core from the chainplate opening at the same time. Still at debate, I guess I really want to see what is going on inside first so I will be grinding off one of the pads next weekend.
Thanks for that. I should have mentioned that surveyor found little moisture on his meter when he checked the area around the lower connection points. Because the hull was not beefed up to accomodate chainplates on the hull, I have been considering having some lower chainplates made out of stainless with a a large back plate that would bolt against a larger deck cover plate. This would be visible in the cabin for inspection and then I would only have to worry about corrosion of the vertical part of the chainplate where it goes through the deck. The backing plate would spread the load via the cored deck. Basically the same set up as now but without everything being hidden inside glass where I can not see it. I would also seal the core from the chainplate opening at the same time. Still at debate, I guess I really want to see what is going on inside first so I will be grinding off one of the pads next weekend.
P
Phil
Upper shroud problem
Mike, I am starting to see some problem on the uppers but will tackle that later. So interested to see what responses you get.
Mike, I am starting to see some problem on the uppers but will tackle that later. So interested to see what responses you get.
P
Phil
Found the problem
I opened up one of the chainplates this past weekend. see photo. The photo is what the chainplate that is imbedded in the deck looks like. The crack in the liner appears to be from some trauma to the boat prior to my purchase last year related the the liner and the hull not moving the same. The chainplate backing plate is resined into the liner and then this is backed up under the deck. The resin only mildly bonded to the deck through the holes in the backing plate and around the perimeter of the plate for about half an inch. This info for those who are wondering what is happening inside that area.
I opened up one of the chainplates this past weekend. see photo. The photo is what the chainplate that is imbedded in the deck looks like. The crack in the liner appears to be from some trauma to the boat prior to my purchase last year related the the liner and the hull not moving the same. The chainplate backing plate is resined into the liner and then this is backed up under the deck. The resin only mildly bonded to the deck through the holes in the backing plate and around the perimeter of the plate for about half an inch. This info for those who are wondering what is happening inside that area.
P
Phil
D
Dave
Is there wood in there?
Phil, is there marine ply in the deck sandwich that can rot, did you find any signs of water ingress into that area. (Your pic isn't working) I have a '78 Oday27 that does not yet have stress cracks on the deck but the lowers do seem to flex the deck when you pull on them. I was just out in a single handed race in 30-40kt winds and had no problems but I was definately thinking about the lower shroud chain plates. Thanks for any info.
Phil, is there marine ply in the deck sandwich that can rot, did you find any signs of water ingress into that area. (Your pic isn't working) I have a '78 Oday27 that does not yet have stress cracks on the deck but the lowers do seem to flex the deck when you pull on them. I was just out in a single handed race in 30-40kt winds and had no problems but I was definately thinking about the lower shroud chain plates. Thanks for any info.
P
Phil
Wood in there
Dave, Yes, there was wood that was dark by the chainplate but dry when I cut it back a 1/4". I cut back the edges and poured in an epoxy plug. I also built up a small island on the deck 1/4" and 3" diameter to keep water flowing down the deck away from the chainplate. I have reseated the plate in 5200 and will make a removable cover for the inside for easier inspection. Just finishing up the first shroud with 5 to go. I was lucky with the dry core. I was also glad not to find any corrosion of the encased stainless.
Dave, Yes, there was wood that was dark by the chainplate but dry when I cut it back a 1/4". I cut back the edges and poured in an epoxy plug. I also built up a small island on the deck 1/4" and 3" diameter to keep water flowing down the deck away from the chainplate. I have reseated the plate in 5200 and will make a removable cover for the inside for easier inspection. Just finishing up the first shroud with 5 to go. I was lucky with the dry core. I was also glad not to find any corrosion of the encased stainless.
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