I noticed as I was storing some equipment this morning that the stainless steel bar that goes from the chainplate thru the topside down to the connector to the hull on my 1993 H30 had snapped off! I had noticed some unusual cracks in the gelcoat surrounding the chainplate on deck and wondered about it. I think it might be a relatively easy fix but need the right part. Here is a picture of the problem. Any ideas on where to get the part or if you've had this situation and might know why it has happened?
Chainplate HELP!
- Thread starter bruce1309
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Emergency!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is critical. Do NOT hoist sail under any condition. Loosen the tension in the shrouds to relieve the pressure on the deck which is now carrying that load. That missing steel rod is what carries the loading of the rig to the grid embedded in the hull structure.
Just this morning I read an article in the August issue of Sail magazine about the structure of chainplates. Check page 25 of this issue. But what ever you do loosen the rig tension NOW!!!
Just this morning I read an article in the August issue of Sail magazine about the structure of chainplates. Check page 25 of this issue. But what ever you do loosen the rig tension NOW!!!
OUCH !! loosen all the rigging then get a rigger involved, or if you are ok with making sure things are really loose (backstay, and the other three shrouds), pull the pins of the shrouds on that side and tie off the shrouds to the toe rail or something fairly stout to make sure the mast stays up and doesn’t get bent. Next you’ll have to remove the screws on the chainplate outside the boat and pull that off; the rod stub will come with that.. Remove the nut on the threaded stub in the cabin and unscrew the stub. Take the threaded stub and the chainplate with rod attached to a good machine shop. They can make a new threaded stub and weld it onto the old rod a couple of inches above the break. They’ll grind it smooth and polish the weld .. It is very important that they know that the repaired rod has to be the same length as the old one was. When ya get it back, you’ll slide the rod into the cabin, PUT THE LOCK NUT BACK ON, then thread the new rod into the anchor. Liberally apply a good sealant like 5200 between the chainplate and the deck.. fill the hole in the deck around the rod. Screw the plate down until it touches the deck then put about one more turn on it making sure you end up in the correct alignment. Screw down and tighten the locknut in the cabin.. Re-connect the three shrouds .. then tension the rig correctly.. Best of luck on the job.. not really difficult but will involve several hours..
Thanks alot Kloudie! I have a close friend at the marina that can work with me. He's done a fair amount of bluewater sailing and is a mechanical genius. He gave me the same Rx as you have except for the welding part. Would it be as strong if welded?
Alan - I did relieve the pressure as soon as I noticed it. Have the main halyard and spin halyard attached to the dock and tensioned real tight. I think we're good to start the work.
Thanks to you!! PS: what do you thinkl might have caused this?
Alan - I did relieve the pressure as soon as I noticed it. Have the main halyard and spin halyard attached to the dock and tensioned real tight. I think we're good to start the work.
Thanks to you!! PS: what do you thinkl might have caused this?
Good that you took action. sounds like you have it in a safe configuration. I'd tie up those halyards to the boat and not the dock. keeps boat motion from making odd tensions on the rig.
Hard to say what caused it but it could have been some corrosion at the first thread root.. I think I see rusty stains on the side of the rod and in the threads. The most common cause of a failure like that is fatigue.. but I have no idea how that could happen on your boat..Could be from misalignment .. when the plate is seated on deck, the rod tip should perfectly line up with the screw hole in the anchor. If you took a macro photo of the broken ends, a couple of guys on the forum may be able to give an opinion..
Welding.. if done correctly, it will be as strong as the original. It will be sensitive to SCC, (stress corrosion cracking) if exposed to some corrodents. Keep all chlorine solutions away from the weld! (seawater, bleach, Comet, etc)
If ya don't feel like welding, you could have a sleeve threaded on both ends. (the walls of the sleeve would have to be the same cross sectional area as the existing rod) Screw that onto the threaded nub then shorten a bit and thread the existing rod .. which could then be screwed into the threaded sleeve.. sealed with big goops of never seize
Again, good luck with the fix
Hard to say what caused it but it could have been some corrosion at the first thread root.. I think I see rusty stains on the side of the rod and in the threads. The most common cause of a failure like that is fatigue.. but I have no idea how that could happen on your boat..Could be from misalignment .. when the plate is seated on deck, the rod tip should perfectly line up with the screw hole in the anchor. If you took a macro photo of the broken ends, a couple of guys on the forum may be able to give an opinion..
Welding.. if done correctly, it will be as strong as the original. It will be sensitive to SCC, (stress corrosion cracking) if exposed to some corrodents. Keep all chlorine solutions away from the weld! (seawater, bleach, Comet, etc)
If ya don't feel like welding, you could have a sleeve threaded on both ends. (the walls of the sleeve would have to be the same cross sectional area as the existing rod) Screw that onto the threaded nub then shorten a bit and thread the existing rod .. which could then be screwed into the threaded sleeve.. sealed with big goops of never seize
Again, good luck with the fix
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I have to say that when I saw this, it gave me a funny feeling, Yikes. Glad you were not at sea though, it could have been a disaster. How does the other one look?
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