chain splice

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Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
If the backsplice is done properly, the line will not move very much at all, so that chafe from the chain is minimal. The backsplice has to be made very tight to the chain however for it not to move. The main chafe is due to the chain-rope gypsy, and that is often due to a damaged or rough gypsy. If the gypsy is in good condition, it should not chafe the rode excessively.

Ron20324—

I'm not nit-picking....saying that a backsplice doubles the diameter of the rope and makes it impossible to use on a enclosed chain/rope gypsy windlass is just plain wrong. Many windlass manufacturers, like Lewmar, recommend the backsplice to chain method of connecting a rope to a chain for the anchor rode.
 
H

HAL

thanks

Thanks for all your ideas on comparison and tips on inspection and seizing. I think the long splice is better in my case because it looks like it will be easier to see if it’s done right and easier to inspect.
I think the forum is better with the restoration of guest status, more participation.
I had to switch to Explorer from Firefox to find the reply button.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Hal, buy a length of manila rope ,say 1/2 inch , and practice making splices. Manila is much easier to work with and learn with. also learn how to properly whip the end of a line.
 
Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
Personally, I don't like to splice it to the chain. I like to splice the rode around a metal sleave creating an eye and connect it to the chain with a shackle. That way I can disconnect the two quickly and easily when needed if I need to use the line for something else or swap out anchors or stuff like that. It also cuts out any chafe problems.

I have a windlass that uses a different part of the windlass for chain then the rode, so I still have to take the rode off the windlass and put the chain on, so the eye and shackle doesn't get in the way anyway.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
It really depends on the windlass you have. Many have a combination gypsy that takes both the rope and chain portions and requires a rope-to-chain splice to fit through the gypsy properly. If you have a chain only gypsy and separate capstan for the rope portion, then splice with a thimble in it makes a lot of sense. Most modern windlasses are designed to handle a combination rode though.
Personally, I don't like to splice it to the chain. I like to splice the rode around a metal sleave creating an eye and connect it to the chain with a shackle. That way I can disconnect the two quickly and easily when needed if I need to use the line for something else or swap out anchors or stuff like that. It also cuts out any chafe problems.

I have a windlass that uses a different part of the windlass for chain then the rode, so I still have to take the rode off the windlass and put the chain on, so the eye and shackle doesn't get in the way anyway.
 
R

rick c

This is not really a "long splice"

It is probably not a good Idea to consider the strands woven through the chain links as a "long splice" The long splice relies almost entirely on the friction developed between the strands for its strength. To develop this strength the strands must be nearly perfectly laid in to the receiving line, making intimate contact for their entire length. The chain splice referred to has no such lay in and cannot develop any where near the same strength. This splice relies almost entirely on the siezings. If properly made these can be quite strong but are subject to abrasion in a windlass (as mentioned in a previous post). Check "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" Brion Toss.
 
G

Guest

Splice

Our boat has the factory rigged three strand eye splice with thimble, and a standard galvanized shackle to connect the thimble splice to the 50 feet of chain. All of this runs through a factory built bow roller and Maxwell windlass combo drum and gypsy. I've anchored hundreds of times (98% solo) over the years with this configuration and am very pleased with how the system works. It never jams, always holds, with minimal signs of wear since it was built in 1991. It is approaching the point of needing a new thimble and splice in a season or two.

Bud
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Over the years..

Over the years I've had just about very conceivable configuration of chain to rode splice and also just all chain. I am now back to a thimble and shackle to the chain and a double braid rode with 60 feet of chain. While the thimble won't go through a windlass I simply remove it when I get to that point and re-insert the chain. That being said I don't use my windlass much and prefer to use the boat to aid in retrieval instead.

As for the back splice or long splice both worked fine for me but I did have more wear, in a shorter time, with the long splice. Most of this wear from the windlass. The long splice also never seemed to let go of mud and muck and I think the constant moisture of trapped mud in between strands and links could not have helped anything but I may be wrong on this.

While the back splice won't double the size of the line it does not always go through the gypsy with ease so both guys are right in a way.

Most of my splicing is done by Yale Cordage (not basic three strand but I did have them do my rope to chain splices). I had a friend who worked there years ago and they have continued this relationship with me even though he is gone. I go straight to the source if you will. Yale does the best splicing I have ever seen and I feel very lucky to have them as my professional splicing source (my own are soooo bad) as that is what Yale's people do all day long, day in, day out. The Yale splicers don't repair a sail and then splice a line all they do is sit there and splice all day long. When I had them do my long splice they fought pretty hard not to do it and recommended I use a back splice. Truth be told they did not want to do any rope to chain but they did it for me on three occasions. I wanted to try the long splice and and they eventually obliged. I got three solid years of service out of it before I felt it was wearing enough to cause me some concern and went back to using thimbles.

I think they will all work but I do personally feel more comfortable with a thimble though it's certainly not the most convenient..

I think in a storm you'll have more to worry about at the bow chocks than you do at the rope to chain splice..
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
[. I'm just thinking there may be a better approach. Why not connect something to the last link that is smooth and less apt to chafe the line? Basically you need a polished chain link. Can someone invent one so we can all buy it? Thanks.[/quote]

Cover the chain area of the back splice with tape or maybe a few dips in epoxy or varnish.
 
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