I have a question that relates to the use of windlasses... The chain-to-rope splice I see everywhere, only runs 2 of 3 major strands of the rode through the chain links. This would seem to seriously degrade the strength of the rode. Not to mention cause a major single-point-of-failure. (I hate them, but when I have to have one, I want it to be as strong as possible. Am I missing something? Is there a more robust splice, or is it something you just have to live with?
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Peter
splice
Assuming you're using 3-strand as your rode, then the typical splice used is a crown splice, which is also often used on shackles. All 3 strands should be through the chain link - period!
Assuming you're using 3-strand as your rode, then the typical splice used is a crown splice, which is also often used on shackles. All 3 strands should be through the chain link - period!
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ALAN KIBBE
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Chuck Wayne
rope to chain splice
Debra, as Allen pointed out, all three strands should go thru the chain link. I just checked my new backup rode (for my second anchor), purchased premade at Boat US, and all three strands clearly go thru the chain link. You might want to question the brands you've looked at...
Debra, as Allen pointed out, all three strands should go thru the chain link. I just checked my new backup rode (for my second anchor), purchased premade at Boat US, and all three strands clearly go thru the chain link. You might want to question the brands you've looked at...
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Jack Tyler
Multiple choices but some key points...
Debra, splicing nylon 3-strand line onto your anchor chain is going to introduce 'the' weak link in the rode 'system' (assuming you've used properly rated shackles, which often times is not the case) - when S/L, Practical Sailor, Brion Toss, Earl Hinz et al. each test 3-strand chain/rope splices, it's the splice that breaks. Still, a good splice can hold 80-90% of the rode's WLL so this isn't usually a major consideration. You might consider the following: 1. Crown knot is only one way to do the splice. S/L offers their own version (and they make gypseys which are intended for rope & chain, so they are knowledgeable), but there are several others. Based on the test results I've seen, the choice of splice isn't the key variable (see below). 2. Rather than running all 3 strands thru a single link in one direction, consider running two thru one way, and one the other. This allows you then place heat shrink tubing around each strand run where it goes thru the link, reducing the amount of grit, sand, shell, etc. from working its way into the strands right where the radius is narrowest and where the ultimate failure occurs. 3. Don't think of this as a 'install and forget' system but rather one with a finite life. How often you cut out and replace this splice depends on how often its in use and under what conditions, but unless it sits in your anchor locker I'd open the splice for inspection and then replace every 18-24 months, preferably more frequently. 4. The critical variable IMO is the proper nature of the splice. A good tight splice using high-caliber line is your best insurance in this regard. Good luck! Jack
Debra, splicing nylon 3-strand line onto your anchor chain is going to introduce 'the' weak link in the rode 'system' (assuming you've used properly rated shackles, which often times is not the case) - when S/L, Practical Sailor, Brion Toss, Earl Hinz et al. each test 3-strand chain/rope splices, it's the splice that breaks. Still, a good splice can hold 80-90% of the rode's WLL so this isn't usually a major consideration. You might consider the following: 1. Crown knot is only one way to do the splice. S/L offers their own version (and they make gypseys which are intended for rope & chain, so they are knowledgeable), but there are several others. Based on the test results I've seen, the choice of splice isn't the key variable (see below). 2. Rather than running all 3 strands thru a single link in one direction, consider running two thru one way, and one the other. This allows you then place heat shrink tubing around each strand run where it goes thru the link, reducing the amount of grit, sand, shell, etc. from working its way into the strands right where the radius is narrowest and where the ultimate failure occurs. 3. Don't think of this as a 'install and forget' system but rather one with a finite life. How often you cut out and replace this splice depends on how often its in use and under what conditions, but unless it sits in your anchor locker I'd open the splice for inspection and then replace every 18-24 months, preferably more frequently. 4. The critical variable IMO is the proper nature of the splice. A good tight splice using high-caliber line is your best insurance in this regard. Good luck! Jack
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Bryce Grefe
chain is the weak link
I have 200 ft. of 3/8 BBB chain rode and 100 ft of 5/8 inch 3 strand, The Working load on the chain is about 2750 lbs while the working load on the 5/8 inch 3 strand is just over 13,000 lbs. So the chain is really the weak link in the whole system. That's of course assuming the splice is in good shape. Bryce S/V spellbinder H410
I have 200 ft. of 3/8 BBB chain rode and 100 ft of 5/8 inch 3 strand, The Working load on the chain is about 2750 lbs while the working load on the 5/8 inch 3 strand is just over 13,000 lbs. So the chain is really the weak link in the whole system. That's of course assuming the splice is in good shape. Bryce S/V spellbinder H410
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Bayard Gross
You probably can't see all three strands
Having taught myself to make my own eye splices (both in three strand and double braided), I am aware how difficult it is to see how all three strands interweave onto the chain link and then back splice onto themselves on a completed splice. Probably two strands are covering up the third on the chain link. The chain link splice necessary for a windlass has been employed for years and is proven reliable. The three strands going through the chain link are woven tightly onto the chain link to miminize chafing. Assuming you take care to examine your rode for chafing, you should not experience any problems. Depending upon your particular boat's configuration, you may find more serious chafing problems on the bow where the rode drops from the boat than where it is connected to the chain. When was the last time you greased your anchor roller?
Having taught myself to make my own eye splices (both in three strand and double braided), I am aware how difficult it is to see how all three strands interweave onto the chain link and then back splice onto themselves on a completed splice. Probably two strands are covering up the third on the chain link. The chain link splice necessary for a windlass has been employed for years and is proven reliable. The three strands going through the chain link are woven tightly onto the chain link to miminize chafing. Assuming you take care to examine your rode for chafing, you should not experience any problems. Depending upon your particular boat's configuration, you may find more serious chafing problems on the bow where the rode drops from the boat than where it is connected to the chain. When was the last time you greased your anchor roller?
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David Guthridge
Always use a thimble.
I have always used a stainless steel thimble for a three strand rope eye splice. It protects the rope from the anchor chain. Never had it fail.
I have always used a stainless steel thimble for a three strand rope eye splice. It protects the rope from the anchor chain. Never had it fail.
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John Visser
no thimble w/ chain gypsy
the thimble won't go through the gypsy, which is why the rope is spliced directly to the chain.
the thimble won't go through the gypsy, which is why the rope is spliced directly to the chain.
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