i have found 2 chain plates leaking , and i can see that thay where sealed with something like selicon , then there is this topping stuff , im gessing it held up to the sun better and thats the reason that thay put it there . What is this top coating ? and is ther a better way to reseal these ? i know there is lots of ideas on here , but what is best and lasts as long as what thay did in making are little ships ? Thank You All for Your Help
chain plate sealent and topping
- Thread starter sabine river minnow
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Life Calk is good and is normally suggested for underwater use, where silicone is never used under the waterline. Boat Life also makes another product called Life Seal, which is a combination of silicone and a polyurethane product which does have some underwater ability. But, you know, silicone is normally suitable for your particular application, but what a lot of people do is caulk their chain plate, let it cure and then tighten their rigging which pulls the caulk away letting in water. It is better to caulk after you have tightened your rigging.
Check out the article from Mainsail on bedding with butyl tape. He also has a site where you can buy the stuff. That will be the process I use when I repaint the deck in a few years.
Bill,
I am wondering exactly how you do that. If the cover plate slips over the chainplate and with the rigging attached, I doubt there is enough clearance to raise the cover plate and gain access to the point that one could get any caulk or butyl tape in there.
What am I missing?
Thanks.
What am I missing
sealant and fiberglass are a no no.
There is permanent residue of silicone into
the fiberglass which causes any subsequent
sealing job subject to failure. That includes
using a silcone type sealant again.
The butyl sealant is the only known remedy
other than grinding down the frp surface to
create a new surface.
Ed K
addendum:
“For the sake of good manners, peace, and
making the most of the little time each of has
on this Earth, we should remember how we
are treated by each.” Roman Skaskiw
What you are missing is that any silicone
sealant and fiberglass are a no no.
There is permanent residue of silicone into
the fiberglass which causes any subsequent
sealing job subject to failure. That includes
using a silcone type sealant again.
The butyl sealant is the only known remedy
other than grinding down the frp surface to
create a new surface.
Ed K
addendum:
“For the sake of good manners, peace, and
making the most of the little time each of has
on this Earth, we should remember how we
are treated by each.” Roman Skaskiw
Is butyl a good substance for a chainplate sealant? Does it have the necessary tenacity?
I suppose it depends on the configuration of the chainplate/cover.
Maine Sail?
I suppose it depends on the configuration of the chainplate/cover.
Maine Sail?
Yes, it is. It is better, lasts longer, adheres properly.
It's like asking: Is my CQR better than a Manson Supreme?
Yeah, sure...
It's like asking: Is my CQR better than a Manson Supreme?
Yeah, sure...
Huh? Love my Manson Supreme, but wonder if butyl will stick well enough. You seem to think it does, so I'll acquiesce for now. :neutral:Yes, it is. It is better, lasts longer, adheres properly.
It's like asking: Is my CQR better than a Manson Supreme?
Yeah, sure...
thread answer
getting butyl under the cover, yes?
My understanding is that butyl does not work so
much by sticking rather it is the creation of a
mushy gasket that does the sealing.
We have a resident guru on butyl tape, the
moderator Maine Sail. Ask him or research his
past threads and answers on this subject. It
has been discussed for years.
Reach back... and find the truth and right way.
Ed K
addendum:
"Integrity is the only path in life upon which you will never get lost. Placing integrity at the cornerstone of every decision you make requires a willingness to do what is right above what is convenient or politically expedient. At times this means veering off the safe and comfortable path onto a less traveled one where the risk of failure or disapproval may run high. At other times it calls you to forge your own. At its core, integrity is about wholeness and alignment between your deepest values, what you are doing and who you are being in the world. Integrity calls forth greatness." By Margie Warrell
Well, then you will have to solve the issue about
getting butyl under the cover, yes?
My understanding is that butyl does not work so
much by sticking rather it is the creation of a
mushy gasket that does the sealing.
We have a resident guru on butyl tape, the
moderator Maine Sail. Ask him or research his
past threads and answers on this subject. It
has been discussed for years.
Reach back... and find the truth and right way.
Ed K
addendum:
"Integrity is the only path in life upon which you will never get lost. Placing integrity at the cornerstone of every decision you make requires a willingness to do what is right above what is convenient or politically expedient. At times this means veering off the safe and comfortable path onto a less traveled one where the risk of failure or disapproval may run high. At other times it calls you to forge your own. At its core, integrity is about wholeness and alignment between your deepest values, what you are doing and who you are being in the world. Integrity calls forth greatness." By Margie Warrell
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I think Butyl Tape is the way to go. I used it on my Tabernacle and I also used it to replace my bow stem chainplate. Silicone type caulking should only be used on plastics. My all time favorite for plastics is Dap Silicone Rubber Adhesive Caulking. I like it better than Dow Corning 795 which is too messy to work with.
I used this Dap to adhere a lens to my forward hatch and it worked like a champ. I would use it for Lexan port lights. I'm told that there is a difference between silicon and silicon rubber.
I occasionally have used 3-M 4000 and 4200 for metal hardware. 3-M products seem to have a longer shelf life that other caulkings I've used, namely BoatLife.
I used this Dap to adhere a lens to my forward hatch and it worked like a champ. I would use it for Lexan port lights. I'm told that there is a difference between silicon and silicon rubber.
I occasionally have used 3-M 4000 and 4200 for metal hardware. 3-M products seem to have a longer shelf life that other caulkings I've used, namely BoatLife.
Tried Life Caulk and Life Seal on a Bristol 29.9, but they would only last a few months until I put the boat through it's paces and I guess that broke the seal at the chainplates. After doing a lot of research, tried 3M 4000. Never leaked again for 2 years right up to the day I sold her. Never tried butyl tape.
I don't see 3-4000 on store shelves anymore. I think I bought it years ago at wall-Mart. Today, all you see on the shelves is 3-M 5200 and that stuff is too strong to use on anything.
Anyone who has these kind of side stay chainplates on their boat is going to have to recaulk them after a period of time. One has to be vigilant and know when the leaks first appear so that they can address the problem right away. If they let it go, it will be just a matter of time before the bulkhead rots out and they'll have to wind up replacinging it.
I installed O'Day 25 chainplates on my O'Day 222 years ago and they started leaking. I had stainless steel covers made up and welded to my chainplates. I used 3-M 4200 under these covers and they never leaked again after that.
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every year I get
which enabled me to find:
http://tinyurl.com/Man-with-a-sailing-dog
Imagine that?
Ed K
Every year I get a copy of West Marine Catalog
which enabled me to find:
http://tinyurl.com/Man-with-a-sailing-dog
Imagine that?
Ed K
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