I believe it's time to fix my chain and rode. The link connecting to the rode is rusted, and the splice at the end of the rode is worn. Couldn't I just remove that last chain link (with a native sized bolt cutter) and re-splice the rode to it?
chain and rode replacement, worn out
- Thread starter luken7
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Just curious
How long have you been using this? I have a thimble spliced in 5/8 rode, and it's kind of large to pull up through the roller. Would be much smoother with out the thimble, if it would last.
But it is certainly time for you to do something.
How long have you been using this? I have a thimble spliced in 5/8 rode, and it's kind of large to pull up through the roller. Would be much smoother with out the thimble, if it would last.
But it is certainly time for you to do something.
There is one fact that Luken7 has left out. I believe that this splice goes through a windlass. For this reason this is the only way that the rode can be attached to the chain. My C36 rode and chain looked pretty-much the same and I used a Dremel tool to cut the last chain link and cut the rode about 18" and re-spliced it. It works well.
Yes, of course.
If you have a windlass you will need to replicate the existing connection as thimbles or shackles etc have a tendency to jam the gypsy.
Tips:
* Hold one side of the offending link in a mole wrench and hacksaw through the other side. (Or any other link if the next in line doesn't look too good).
* If you have two Moles or one mole and an adjustable wrench put one each side and twist the link to open it.
* If you can't do this ashore or on the dock make sure you work over an old newspaper to catch the swarf or else the steel filings will all rust and leave very many brown stains on the deck - and be the devil to clean off your deck and out of the scuppers.
* Oxalic acid gets rust stains off!
If you have a windlass you will need to replicate the existing connection as thimbles or shackles etc have a tendency to jam the gypsy.
Tips:
* Hold one side of the offending link in a mole wrench and hacksaw through the other side. (Or any other link if the next in line doesn't look too good).
* If you have two Moles or one mole and an adjustable wrench put one each side and twist the link to open it.
* If you can't do this ashore or on the dock make sure you work over an old newspaper to catch the swarf or else the steel filings will all rust and leave very many brown stains on the deck - and be the devil to clean off your deck and out of the scuppers.
* Oxalic acid gets rust stains off!
Yup, done this many times, on my boat and for friends.
1. A chain to rope splice is as strong as a splice around a thimble. Though it seems far more compact, ther are still 3 strands going through the chain, and because they are unlayed, they share the strain more evenly. Fewer parts to fail, with no shackle, and much smoother run.
2. Yes, resplice. This is a normal maintance procedure and should be repeated every few years, depending on use. Only the terminal link or 2 need to be removed. This is perhaps the easiest splice to learn, but practice with a scrap first. Actually, since you are going to trim the rode way back, you can simply practice with the end!
3. This is the ONLY way you are going to get the chain through most windlasses. However, I will warn you that you may need to trim 10-20 feet from the rode, if the rode has become fuzzed through use. This fuzing will result in the splice being too fat for some windlasses.
4. Yes, bolt cutters are best if you've got em.
5. Chafe is only an issue because this is way over due. You'll see that it's a 10 minutes job the second time.
Just maintance.
1. A chain to rope splice is as strong as a splice around a thimble. Though it seems far more compact, ther are still 3 strands going through the chain, and because they are unlayed, they share the strain more evenly. Fewer parts to fail, with no shackle, and much smoother run.
2. Yes, resplice. This is a normal maintance procedure and should be repeated every few years, depending on use. Only the terminal link or 2 need to be removed. This is perhaps the easiest splice to learn, but practice with a scrap first. Actually, since you are going to trim the rode way back, you can simply practice with the end!
3. This is the ONLY way you are going to get the chain through most windlasses. However, I will warn you that you may need to trim 10-20 feet from the rode, if the rode has become fuzzed through use. This fuzing will result in the splice being too fat for some windlasses.
4. Yes, bolt cutters are best if you've got em.
5. Chafe is only an issue because this is way over due. You'll see that it's a 10 minutes job the second time.
Just maintance.
I would definatly resplice. What I am wondering about is what is a mole wrench? I was around tools for many years and never heard that term. I suppose its the same tool with different names between England and the U. S.
Think I remember
Some time ago seeing a recomendatin for a rope to chain splice that had the three strand being sort of woven into the chain for about a foot. This probably wouldn't work with a gypsy on a windlass, but seems like it would eliminate the chafe of a regular splice.
Some time ago seeing a recomendatin for a rope to chain splice that had the three strand being sort of woven into the chain for about a foot. This probably wouldn't work with a gypsy on a windlass, but seems like it would eliminate the chafe of a regular splice.
i have seen some of this same splicing done by a friend and it fit nicely into the windlass-- just needs to be a good, tight splicing job.
I would re-splice but i would also reverse the rope, ie, use the end that was attached to the boat to attach to the anchor and vice versa. The boat end has probably had little tension on it and would be much more like a new rope, the old splice end has probably had a hard life and leaving most of it in the chain locker would be better, this assumes you did not deploy the complete length every time you deployed the anchor.
A mole grip is an adjustable wrench that locks,with a screw adjustment in the handle, i cant remember the American term but you do get them this side of the pond.
A mole grip is an adjustable wrench that locks,with a screw adjustment in the handle, i cant remember the American term but you do get them this side of the pond.
N&E, Like most things there will always be personal preferences on the "long splice" as you refer to, and personal preferences for the short splice. Please, people, let's not launch into debate here. I did it on my rode and have had no problems. I know others have gone long also, with no problems.
There is some variability in gypsies, judging from the comments. Clearly, some it fits. Some, like mine, will barely tolerate paint and will not tolerate any chain marking addition. A long slice also stiffens the chain and some will not tolerate that.
I love the look of the long splice and tried to make it work. No way, not for mine.
Ray T re "Mole"
Realising that American was now a quite different language from English I actually Googled Mole to see if there was another word in use in the USA before posting on this.
Now, thanks to you I know - Visegrip - of course we would spell it Vicegrip!
Rgds,
Don A.
Realising that American was now a quite different language from English I actually Googled Mole to see if there was another word in use in the USA before posting on this.
Now, thanks to you I know - Visegrip - of course we would spell it Vicegrip!
Rgds,
Don A.
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