Cetol vs WoodPro

[njlarry]

Has anyone tried West Marine's WoodPro finish?
I was planning to use Cetol on my teak once I figured out the color. However the instructions say to wait 24 hrs between coats. That would mean finding a four window of ideal conditions if also applying a gloss along with masking and un-masking five times! If only doing one coat a day, would have to get some sailing in between coats.
WoodPro claims it can be re-coated every five hours with no sanding. That means I could likely put on all coats in two days at the slip and only mask twice.
It seems to me that re-coating every 5 hours vs every 24 hours would make the project simpler and less weather dependent?

 

[Gunni]

Cetol is a two-part varnish system, I assume you are referring to the gloss topcoat. One coat is equivalent to about 4 coats of regular varnish, two coats should be all you need, with a scuff and maintenance coat each year as required. I leave the masking tape on for all coats.

 

[Brian S]

I don't think Gunni had this right. Sikkens Cetol Marine finish is like a thin film translucent paint. It comes in 3 semi-gloss colors, and 1 clear gloss. It is not a 2 part catalyzed product like Interlux Perfection Plus polyurethane "varnish." It does not fill and build like varnish, and it does not obscure seeing the grain like paint does. It just doesn't have the same amount of pigment as paint. You generally do 3 or 4 coats of pigmented Cetol, then if you want, 1 coat of gloss. If you used the gloss "topcoat," you will be applying gloss on subsequent applications, not pigmented. The gloss is completely clear, and doesn't give an amber hue the way varnish does. I found the semi-gloss effect of the pigmented Cetol to be ok, and never put the clear on. I did something wrong, and it is lifting in areas where the grain is deeper than the surface teak, after only 1 1/2 season. Obviously, I didn't prep properly.

I have not used the West Marine product. I think Jamestown Distributors is also making similar self-branded products.

If I ever get this Cetol off the teak, I may just go with Semco...

 

[Joe]

Quit using cetol long ago. I use Helmsman Spar Urethane (polyurethane} by MinWax.. It's about $10/qt $30/gal at Home Depot. I like clear satin for natural teak... but it's cheap enough to get gloss and satin to see which one you prefer. MinWax makes great products.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYr89O_IhBQ

 

[njlarry]

Brian, what do think was wrong with the prep? Cetol says not to apply in the sun. Without a paint shed not sure how one does that for up to five coats.
Joe, how many coats and what yearly maintenance?
All, also thinking of Honey Teak.

 

[Mark Maulden]

I've put Cetol on in the sun.. You just have to be fast as it starts setting up faster.

 

[Joe]

Brian, what do think was wrong with the prep? Cetol says not to apply in the sun. Without a paint shed not sure how one does that for up to five coats.
Joe, how many coats and what yearly maintenance?
All, also thinking of Honey Teak.

2 to 3 coats... more if you want.. with two full days of good weather and the prep out of the way you can put 4 or 5.... once the surface is the way you want it, brushing on takes very little time.. use thin coats... they'll dry faster and you won't drip... I don't even tape anymore. Thin coats won't run. Keep a clean up rag handy for the inevitable slips... but If you stay on top of this you can get your whole boat done in very short time.

Maintenance wise.... it's the same as cetol... don't get caught in the "less maintenance" hype you hear about cetol.... I've done both and I'd never go back.... The truth is the polyurethane product looks so much better it's worth it...

I've been using the clear satin rather the the gloss.... both look good.. the satin has a more natural look.

Watch the video I posted earlier... as I said... taping is time consuming... pot and rag in one hand, 2" brush in the other.... zoom zoom.

 

[Steve Dion]

Cetol Natural Teak is not like the original products. It is worth taking a looking at.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Cetol_Marine_Natural_Teak+eng-usa+A4+Y+20100618.pdf

 

[Pat]

Our experience with Wood Pro (WM) was not pleasant.....the product began to lift and
peel the first year.....we finally gave up, sanded and used Watco teak oil which, of course, is a totally different approach....Our teak though looks really good..most especially the cockpit grate, drink holder and table....but not like Siekens....but very good nonetheless.

 

[Brian S]

I can't remember what I did or didn't do. Maybe I failed to wipe down the teak with appropriate thinner. Whatever their Special Thinner 216 is… If I wiped down at all, I would probably have used acetone.

I've heard horror stories about getting old Cetol off… So I'm ignoring it for now, maybe will strip and redo next season with Semco… My experience with Watco Teak Oil is not good. I use it on my cedar kayak paddle, and it wears pretty quickly. If I'm going to put enough Watco on to try and build it up a little bit, I might as well go whole hog and varnish the teak...

Brian, what do think was wrong with the prep? Cetol says not to apply in the sun. Without a paint shed not sure how one does that for up to five coats.
Joe, how many coats and what yearly maintenance?
All, also thinking of Honey Teak.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I've heard horror stories about getting old Cetol off…

Isn't that a bear? It comes off when you don't want it to, and won't come off when you do!

BTDT, all the way from nothing, to varnish, to cetol, to oil, and back again.

There is no BEST and NO right answer for everyone. Really.

 

[Pat]

yes it is a bear. We completed 6 coats of Watco on all the outdoor teak we could take off the boat and bring home.....It is holding up extremely well. The teak rails, channels, etc. that we could only do at the lake received maybe two coats..and is wearing ok, but not like the 6 coat teak...but to be truthful, the woodpro was worse all around....we believed it was just like siekens, but it's not even close....I'll probably stick to the watco for a couple years....nothing lasts real well with outdoor temperatures today near 105 and strong SW winds.. nary a cloud in the ski....remember, at the Home on the range, the skies are not cloudy all day....sorry to do that...pat

 

[DougM]

The only thing I have seen that looks good to my eye is Epifanes wood finish. The problem is that it takes about eight coats to really get the appearance I like. The secret to any finish is meticulous prep work, really good brushes, and clean, clean, clean between coats. I can't get the teak surfaces off the boat to do the work at home over the winter, so I just don't go that route. Since I live about 50 feet away from my boat in the summer, I have found that regular scrubbing even with clear water looks fine.

Cetol is fine, I have just never been a fan of the color and as was previously mentioned, it doesn't have any filling characteristics. I tried the West Marine product a few years back, and it did not hold up well in outdoor winter storage even under a cover.

I really love the look of well finished and maintained brightwork, I wish I had the time and ambition to keep it up. With a short sailing season, and a long winter season where I can't get at the boat, it's either sail when I can, or have a beautifully finished dock queen.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

AS a former dealer, I used Cetol. If possible, teak was removed and dryed out if that was needed. If old teak, sanding and cleaning were required. Initially, there is a lot to do but yearly maintenance is pretty easy.

After prepping the teak, I cut the Cetol in half so it would soak into the teak easier with a light sanding afterwards. This was done twice to seal the fine pores. This included the bottom as moisture will come up thru the bottom forcing sealants off which many folks tend to forget about. Then four full coats were added with a light sanding after each coat. Once a year did require a new coat but lasted a long time.