Cetol Users

[higgs]

i am switching to Cetol. i hear different people tell me different ways to apply it. some say, rough it up between coats, some say don't and just today a guy told me to only rough up for the final coat with a green scotch pad. If you have used Cetol for several years with good results, please weigh in. Thanks.

 

[Stu Jackson]

We just keep adding layers, never sanded, works fine. 13 years on...

 

[Time Out]

I just give it a light sanding between coats, and it always turns out nicely.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Supposedly it does not require sanding between coats but I keep hearing the old adage "it can't hurt" so I always lightly sand.

 

[Warren Milberg]

I've done it both ways and found no difference in the result.

 

[Bad Obsession]

C: All of the above

Cetol is low fuss stuff....

 

[Chuck Creel]

I have found that sanding or steel wool does abt the same for the end result.

just watch out for bugs.. lol..

 

[Steve Dion]

I would use the vendors directions. NO SANDING.

www.yachtpaint.com/usa/hotlinks/sikkens_guide.pdf

If you sand, you are just removing material.

 

[kenn]

I've been using deck Cetol (their orange-y colour called "Natural") on our boat's teak exterior trim, because I had a half gallon left over from a house job.

When we got the boat, it had greyed-out teak rub-rails. I sanded out the gray and applied 3 coats of the Cetol, and it looked really great.

Prior to (re)application, I sand any roughness or blisters, then apply a coat or two. I don't sand between coats unless there's a visible problem.

It's not hi-gloss, more a satin, but it gives a great, durable finish with little fuss.

 

[higgs]

Stu

What do you do each season to maintain it?

 

[jibes138]

Hate it

I applied it to my brightwork about three years ago and haven't touched it since. It is all peeling off and making a mess of the boat when I hose it off. I will need to sand it off. I used to use SEMCO and loved it. A coat a year and it would last for two years. A light wash with a scotchbright pad and another coat and back in business. I haven't found SEMCO for several years now. I'm sure if I had maintained the Cetol it would be fine. In fact here's a tip. Cetol is also sold for doing house decks and it is about 1/5 the price you pay in the marine stores. A buddy of mine tipped me off. I haven't looked into it but according to him it is the same stuff and a lot cheaper but you may have to buy 5 gallons at a time.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Just slapped another coat on.

 

[Bud22569]

I applied it to my brightwork about three years ago and haven't touched it since. It is all peeling off and making a mess of the boat when I hose it off. I will need to sand it off. I used to use SEMCO and loved it. A coat a year and it would last for two years. A light wash with a scotchbright pad and another coat and back in business. I haven't found SEMCO for several years now. I'm sure if I had maintained the Cetol it would be fine. In fact here's a tip. Cetol is also sold for doing house decks and it is about 1/5 the price you pay in the marine stores. A buddy of mine tipped me off. I haven't looked into it but according to him it is the same stuff and a lot cheaper but you may have to buy 5 gallons at a time.

I am having the same problem with Cetol. I applied it for the first time 3 years ago. I sanded all of the teak before applying. It looked very good until the end of last season. I have added another coat each year. Now it is peeling off very badly on all teak surfaces. I must have failed to properly prepare the teak before the first coat.

 

[thereisabelle]

A good wipe with acetone on raw teak or mohogany should be good for cetol.
keep in mind the price @ $37.00 qt. lapps and holidays cause uneven cure. if
you have on sunblock put the brushes away.

 

[jibes138]

I did about 2 minutes of research and found Cetol by the gallon for 35.25 at a log home dealer or at West it is 124.99 a gallon. Not sure the exact chemical composition of each but I'll bet they are pretty equal. A quart at West is 27.99 or so. Anyone know the difference if any?
http://www.twincreeksloghomes.com/detail.aspx?ID=7

 

[higgs]

I picked my cans up at a liqauidating marine store in Ft. Myers for $10 a can.

 

[Eric M]

I have used the Cetol Marine Natural Teak followed by the Cetol Gloss for 5+ years now. Sand with 220, and apply 2 more coats of Cetol Gloss each year on wood in direct sun, and every other year for wood not in the direct sun (under the bimini) Per the mfr recommendations in the link already provided, you DO need to sand if it has been more than 2 weeks since your last coat. I have had issues where the maintenance coats have not adhered well if it was not sanded well enough to create some surface roughness for the new coats to stick to.
Good Luck

 

[BobM]

Do to the oil in the teak you should wipe it down with a solvent post sanding. This will both remove sawdust and oil residue which may affect adhesion. Also, avoid using steel wool for standing as you could end up with rust from the pad shedding into your coating. Brass wool, sand paper or a scotch brite pad are fine.

 

[ronbo]

I've used Cetol Marine with Gloss overcoat for many years. Annual maintenance in the Chesapeake is just a coat of Gloss. Sand between applications, particularly if you use just Cetol Marine, otherwise the coats continue to build up and gets more orange looking.

Also, (not in the instructions), thin Cetol Gloss so it flattens out and looks like a professional job.

Ronbo

 

[kenn]

Some great tips here.

In the building-supply stores around here (Toronto), 'deck' Cetol is around $80 a gallon.

The only adhesion/peel issue I've ever had with Cetol was on new teak parts that I had fabricated; some of that had peeled after a season. Probably due to that oil thing as mentioned.

The Cetol adheres fantastically to aged, weathered teak. I haven't had any of that peel or flake in 4 years. Also, I only apply enough coats to give an even, well-absorbed finish; any build-up beyond that is a waste and just encourages peeling, in my limited experience.