I am about to redo my tiller. Should I use Marine varnish or Cetol. It was done with a marine varnish, but I have been readying her for a new coat. I plan on redoing my teak work with Cetol this spring.
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must be that time of year
I'm also in Warwick Ron at Brewers. Spent most of today stripping the teak seats for re-something... still not too sure what I'll use either. They were Cetol'ed and lasted a few years. My yard guys did some brightwork with Bristol Finish earlier this year and it didn't look good. My only comment about varnish is that it's alot more work and requires 6-8 coats to look proper. Being generally lazy, I'd go for the Cetol route but varnish definitely looks better. Don illusion
I'm also in Warwick Ron at Brewers. Spent most of today stripping the teak seats for re-something... still not too sure what I'll use either. They were Cetol'ed and lasted a few years. My yard guys did some brightwork with Bristol Finish earlier this year and it didn't look good. My only comment about varnish is that it's alot more work and requires 6-8 coats to look proper. Being generally lazy, I'd go for the Cetol route but varnish definitely looks better. Don illusion
Cetol gloss
Hi Ron - If your tiller currently has varnish on it, and it's so far gone that it requires complete stripping, I'd sand and apply varnish. However, if you need to go down to bare wood, I'd go with Cetol. I'm the first to admit that a fine varnish job looks better than a fine Cetol job, but I firmly believe that the 80-20 rule applies here. Actually, if you use the new gloss topcoat, it's more like the 90-10 rule (10% of the work for 90% of the look). This was confirmed recently by Rob of LaDonna fame (you CatalinaOwners.com veterans may remember her as the varnish aficionado that used to moderate here) who just last weekend commented that I had made a good choice by "varnishing" my caprails. In fact, I had prepped well and applied 3 coats of the "dreaded" Cetol and finished with 2 topcoats of Cetol gloss. It even fooled them! Just my recommendation - everyone has their own opinions! Trevor
Hi Ron - If your tiller currently has varnish on it, and it's so far gone that it requires complete stripping, I'd sand and apply varnish. However, if you need to go down to bare wood, I'd go with Cetol. I'm the first to admit that a fine varnish job looks better than a fine Cetol job, but I firmly believe that the 80-20 rule applies here. Actually, if you use the new gloss topcoat, it's more like the 90-10 rule (10% of the work for 90% of the look). This was confirmed recently by Rob of LaDonna fame (you CatalinaOwners.com veterans may remember her as the varnish aficionado that used to moderate here) who just last weekend commented that I had made a good choice by "varnishing" my caprails. In fact, I had prepped well and applied 3 coats of the "dreaded" Cetol and finished with 2 topcoats of Cetol gloss. It even fooled them! Just my recommendation - everyone has their own opinions! Trevor
totally agree with Trevor
I can't agree more with what Trevor said. I live about a quarter mile from the summer sun so varnish down here lasts about as long as lunch on Sunday afternoons. We've been using Cetol for years and with zero work I can get 2 years out of it. Yeah, Varnish looks better but my boat is no dock queen, she sails a lot. I don't have the time to sail AND sand every week so I pick sail. Just my 2 onces worth.
I can't agree more with what Trevor said. I live about a quarter mile from the summer sun so varnish down here lasts about as long as lunch on Sunday afternoons. We've been using Cetol for years and with zero work I can get 2 years out of it. Yeah, Varnish looks better but my boat is no dock queen, she sails a lot. I don't have the time to sail AND sand every week so I pick sail. Just my 2 onces worth.
Cetal/Varnish
If the tiller will be uncovered most of the time, Cetol is the way to go. If it remains covered when not in use, use either one. I used Cetol on my hand rails (always exposed), and varnish on my tiller (only exposed when sailing).
If the tiller will be uncovered most of the time, Cetol is the way to go. If it remains covered when not in use, use either one. I used Cetol on my hand rails (always exposed), and varnish on my tiller (only exposed when sailing).
varnish
You live in New England, take the time, feel the pride, use varnish. I sail between Newport and Cape Cod. I've used over 100 sheets of sandpaper, right now there are over 11 coats of varnish on the bright work, you will be blinded by the shine. There is nothing as sweet as a nice varnish job.
You live in New England, take the time, feel the pride, use varnish. I sail between Newport and Cape Cod. I've used over 100 sheets of sandpaper, right now there are over 11 coats of varnish on the bright work, you will be blinded by the shine. There is nothing as sweet as a nice varnish job.
NO CETOL
My personal choice is Bristol Finish over a complete coating of penetrating epoxy(lightly thinned West System). Over a ten year span you will save money and loads of work. This area is very tough on brightwork(Galveston Bay area) add to the sub-tropical heat and humidity, a healthy dose of every known chemical from the plants in Houston/Tx City and Bristol Finish is the ONLY stuff to go a full season. didereaux
My personal choice is Bristol Finish over a complete coating of penetrating epoxy(lightly thinned West System). Over a ten year span you will save money and loads of work. This area is very tough on brightwork(Galveston Bay area) add to the sub-tropical heat and humidity, a healthy dose of every known chemical from the plants in Houston/Tx City and Bristol Finish is the ONLY stuff to go a full season. didereaux
Varnish and a cover!
Ron: I am a Cetol fan because of it's longevity in the sun and elements. When it comes to a tiller, I would go with several coats of high quality varnish and a good cover. It will last many years with little or no maintenance. It is also very easy to refinish at home. Just remove it from the boat and take it home.
Ron: I am a Cetol fan because of it's longevity in the sun and elements. When it comes to a tiller, I would go with several coats of high quality varnish and a good cover. It will last many years with little or no maintenance. It is also very easy to refinish at home. Just remove it from the boat and take it home.
Second Bristol Finish
I would have to recommend Bristol Finish over both varnish and Cetol. Bristol Finish is a two-part poly that has the appearance of varnish, can be applied wet over wet without sanding and can last several years. Cetol has too muddy of an appearance, looking more like a paint than a true brightwork finish. You can get Bristol Finish through the web or from the Ships Store at East Passage in Portsmouth. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 # 560
I would have to recommend Bristol Finish over both varnish and Cetol. Bristol Finish is a two-part poly that has the appearance of varnish, can be applied wet over wet without sanding and can last several years. Cetol has too muddy of an appearance, looking more like a paint than a true brightwork finish. You can get Bristol Finish through the web or from the Ships Store at East Passage in Portsmouth. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 # 560
One more varnish fan
Ron, I am in the camp that says varnish the tiller and keep it covered. You'll just love that varnished wood every time you remove the cover. When I bought the boat I sanded the previously varnished, but peeling and greying, tiller down to bare wood and put on 6-7 coats of Epifanes Clear High Gloss. I have found that even with heavy use (6 month season) it only needs a cosmetic touch up (light sand with 300 or 400 and 1 or 2 coats of varnish) every second year. Easy to do with the tiller at home in the off season. Kevin
Ron, I am in the camp that says varnish the tiller and keep it covered. You'll just love that varnished wood every time you remove the cover. When I bought the boat I sanded the previously varnished, but peeling and greying, tiller down to bare wood and put on 6-7 coats of Epifanes Clear High Gloss. I have found that even with heavy use (6 month season) it only needs a cosmetic touch up (light sand with 300 or 400 and 1 or 2 coats of varnish) every second year. Easy to do with the tiller at home in the off season. Kevin
But which protects better?
A few years ago I took the tiller of my Cat27 home to refinish and found rot at the base, where the wood tiller fastens to the tiller head. And while sailing in a race on SF Bay on another 27 a few years before that, we had the tiller break while under the spin in 25 knots of wind! I bought a new tiller, and added 3 coats of varnish to that on it from the manufacturer, but I'm wondering what finish is going to best protect the wood from rot intrusion, while still being relatively easy to maintain. Varnish? Cetol? West epoxy?
A few years ago I took the tiller of my Cat27 home to refinish and found rot at the base, where the wood tiller fastens to the tiller head. And while sailing in a race on SF Bay on another 27 a few years before that, we had the tiller break while under the spin in 25 knots of wind! I bought a new tiller, and added 3 coats of varnish to that on it from the manufacturer, but I'm wondering what finish is going to best protect the wood from rot intrusion, while still being relatively easy to maintain. Varnish? Cetol? West epoxy?
Cetol...
...for me. Lasts years with little maintenance. What do you want to do, work, or go sailing? I have used Cetol for many years on many boats and the finish has fooled some of the pickiest people I know. Actually, I intend on replacing every bit of exterior teak on my Nonsuch with a synthetic material and never have to worry about varnishing at all. So while I'm sailing past the docks on my way out I can wave to all you varnish freaks hard at work...
Cheers, Bob BTW...Don & Ron, I'm at EGYC...just down the street!
...for me. Lasts years with little maintenance. What do you want to do, work, or go sailing? I have used Cetol for many years on many boats and the finish has fooled some of the pickiest people I know. Actually, I intend on replacing every bit of exterior teak on my Nonsuch with a synthetic material and never have to worry about varnishing at all. So while I'm sailing past the docks on my way out I can wave to all you varnish freaks hard at work...
Cheers, Bob BTW...Don & Ron, I'm at EGYC...just down the street!
Varnish
I just re-finished all of my exterior teake. I have covers for all of the exposed wood (except the eyebrow strips on the cabin). The varnish lookes awesome and I am glad that I went with it. My boat spends a lot of time on the hard on a trailer and I tend to cover it with a tarp. As long as you take a little time to keep it up, the varnish will last and look great! Go for the varnish and cover it when not in use....you won't regret it, especially if you put PLENTY of coats on it
I just re-finished all of my exterior teake. I have covers for all of the exposed wood (except the eyebrow strips on the cabin). The varnish lookes awesome and I am glad that I went with it. My boat spends a lot of time on the hard on a trailer and I tend to cover it with a tarp. As long as you take a little time to keep it up, the varnish will last and look great! Go for the varnish and cover it when not in use....you won't regret it, especially if you put PLENTY of coats on it
Varnish and Semco
The oak tiller is the only wood I take the time to varnish. All the teak gets Semco which, IMHO, is the best teak product on earth.
The oak tiller is the only wood I take the time to varnish. All the teak gets Semco which, IMHO, is the best teak product on earth.
Cetol/Varnish
Notice most varnish votes are from up north, where the boat is not subjected to 365 days of weather. In the south, three coats of Cetol will last at least two years. Varnish, regardless of number of coats will not stand up on any exterior parts (hand rails, hatch boards, etc) that are exposed to the elements all year.
Notice most varnish votes are from up north, where the boat is not subjected to 365 days of weather. In the south, three coats of Cetol will last at least two years. Varnish, regardless of number of coats will not stand up on any exterior parts (hand rails, hatch boards, etc) that are exposed to the elements all year.
REBUILT TILLER
I had the same problem . It happens because the tiller under strain is working against the the bolts which in turn makes the holes in the tiller open to the weather.water seeps in and rots the wood.No amount of varnish or cetol on the exterior of the tiller will help.If you catch the problem early before the laminations open you can drill out the rotted holes oversize fill with west system epoxy and redrill the holes.photo is tiller i modified it is strong
I had the same problem . It happens because the tiller under strain is working against the the bolts which in turn makes the holes in the tiller open to the weather.water seeps in and rots the wood.No amount of varnish or cetol on the exterior of the tiller will help.If you catch the problem early before the laminations open you can drill out the rotted holes oversize fill with west system epoxy and redrill the holes.photo is tiller i modified it is strong
At Ease, why wouldn't a tiller cover work
in a southern climate? Even up here most of us do use Cetol on exposed wood. But it's easy to slip a "tiller condom" on when the boat isn't being used. And by the way, have you ever seen what 6 months of winter weather can do to exposed varnish? Kevin
in a southern climate? Even up here most of us do use Cetol on exposed wood. But it's easy to slip a "tiller condom" on when the boat isn't being used. And by the way, have you ever seen what 6 months of winter weather can do to exposed varnish? Kevin
Cetol/Varnish
Kevin...see my earlier post (#5). In my later post, what I was trying to say was that up north, lots of boats are pulled and covered for the winter...not so in the south. Therefore, if using varnish, it is covered for more than half the year. My boat is in it's slip all year, that's why I use varnish on the tiller (it's covered) and Cetol on the hand rails (uncovered).
Kevin...see my earlier post (#5). In my later post, what I was trying to say was that up north, lots of boats are pulled and covered for the winter...not so in the south. Therefore, if using varnish, it is covered for more than half the year. My boat is in it's slip all year, that's why I use varnish on the tiller (it's covered) and Cetol on the hand rails (uncovered).
Cetol Marine, followed by Cetol Gloss
It's the only way to go!!;D I used plain Cetol on my wood, until I heard about adding gloss. The added gloss finish looks like a million bucks IMHO! I recieved many compliments on my wood last summer, after I overcoated with the gloss!
It's the only way to go!!;D I used plain Cetol on my wood, until I heard about adding gloss. The added gloss finish looks like a million bucks IMHO! I recieved many compliments on my wood last summer, after I overcoated with the gloss!
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